gingerbeemer

Does anyone know if the drivers door lock on a late 300TDi Disco has a micro switch in it that affects the central lockin/ alarm system? I recently removed mine to replace the small spring that holds the door plunger up and now, whenever I lock it with the blipper, I get a double beep with the horn and the interior lights wont go out. (also the rear wiper wont work either! Random) Any help greatly appreciated Thanks

Ok, Post number 2 for problem number 2 on my project Disco. Latest faults are as follows; Interior lights wont go out (switches seem fine) When the car is locked using fob or key, I get the "double beep" from the horn thing going on. Rear wiper has packed up Central locking sometimes "bounces" open/ shut. All these faults have happened at the same time so presuming they're related in some way. Any ideas out there?? Thanks

Hi all, been a while since last posting but really need some help. My 98' 300Tdi Disco Auto has broken down on the driveway and i'm struggling to figure out a fix. Vehicle turns over but wont start and I've checked all the obvious stuff. I think its a fuel cut off solenoid issue but having looked, its fitted with a black plastic cap on the back of the pump with three wires going into it, which I think is DDS(?). Anyway, my main question is.....can I remove this plastic cap (and how)? Can i do something with these three wires to bypass the DDS straight to the solenoid (and again, how)? And finally do I need to bypass the immobiliser system to do this (and again, how?). I'm fairly handy with the spanners, just never come across one of these before! Thanks in advance for any help provided

Solved it!! Bit of an odd repair but it works.(Thanks Phill) Got the engine to its normal working temp so the gauge was reading at the end of the white area (where it sits whilst running)and the electric fan kicked in, and measured the coolant temperature (88 degrees). Waited for the fan to switch off after cooling and measured the temp again (82 degrees). This told me the engine was running normally, just the gauge was reading off. Took a dashlight dimmer switch from a scrap Rover 214, stripped it down, soldered a couple of wires onto it and fitted it in line to the gauge. Got the engine up to it's "hot" temperature again (top end of the white bit) only this time turned the dimmer control down which moved the needle to the middle of the gauge, which basically re-calibrated the gauge. Once the fan had done its job and cut out at the lower temp the gauge now read quarter! Hey presto! Fixed! Insulated and secured the dimmer switch behind the dash so it cant move and the whole thing now works perfectly. A bit un-orthodox but it works a treat and really easy to do. Hope this may help someone else in the future and thanks to those who posted replies to my question.

Hi guys After a bit of advice please. Have just converted my 90Td into a 200 TDi and have an issue with the temp gauge. It was a 200Tdi from a Disco which I fitted the Turbo Diesel's temp switch/ sender too. I've fitted an electric fan as well which cuts in at 90 degrees and out again at 86'ish. Whenever I take it out now, the engine reaches working temperature but the gauge reads towards the end of the "white" area of the gauge and stays there (doesnt go into the red at all). The vehicle is definetly not overheating so I think it's either the gauge or the sender which is at fault (or both!). Could it be that they arent calibrated to work together with the 200Tdi or has anyone come across this before? Is the sender ifferent on a 200 Tdi to a Td? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks to all who may be able to help