evolwood
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Posts posted by evolwood
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Or the genuine land rover ones like what are fitted in the current 90.
Don't go for the cheap exmoor forward facing ones though cos they are not really up to the job.
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Not much use for the first startup though surely?
For startup you need a webasto heater
Most problems with waxing don't occur on startup though and it only takes a couple of minutes of the engine running to be warming the fuel enough to be preventing waxing.
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Hi all,
I've recently had problems getting my 110 defender into 3rd gear, and its getting worse.
Its a 1990 2.5NAD 110.I have changed the oil a few months ago when it was working fine.I replaced it with ATF (hope that was the right oil ! ). Just a few days ago i noticed it wouldn't go into third sometimes,but with a good shove it would.Now it won't at all unless you rev it ( like when you change gear without a clutch). Also its been cluncking a bit when taking up drive but i assumed this was play in the transfer box.
Any ideas please guys. Is it maybe the syncromesh for 3rd gear ?
thanks
andy
P.s,
i did try a search first but couldn't find anything the same.
Providing that you put the right oil of the right amount in the right place then it does sound like you need to send both boxes off to get reconned.
Speak to dave at ashcroft transmissions. There are other things that can cause clunking when taking up drive but as it sounds like your gearbox needs to be taken off then you will be able to do all the checks at the same time.
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Hi,is it possible to get a ceramic fuel tank heater to fit a defender 90. I can remember a few years ago some hgv's had them fitted but don't know if it still is possible to get them and fit one to a 90.
Temperatures have been really low this week, down to -18c and a few diesel vehicles nearby have had their fuel waxed. Mine has had a gallon of parrafin stuck in the tank and has been ok, but it would be nice just to flick a switch and have warm fuel.
Hope everyone is enjoying the festive season, all the best, regards, rocky
A heated filter is the normal way to go. Not an electrical one but one that is heated by the coolant.
http://www.biotuning.co.uk/PartsFilters.htm . The one shown at the top is probably the best. I think they were also fitted on some kind of renault, maybe a clio but cant fully remember. The reason this works is that the filter is the biggest problem with waxing and it soon blocks up. There is normally enough fuel returned to tank if the fuel is warm to keep that clear.
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Coming home from work last night on the M1 in heavy traffic, snow and ice - in the middle lane - and yep, you guessed it - A loud BANG from the gearbox and no drive. At first I thought it ahd slipped from high in to nuetral on the t-box but after playing found I had lost all drive in 5th and reverse. 1st to 4th seem to work ok, but the box has been getting notchy over the last 500 miles or so.
Has anyone else had this, can it be fixed or is it a recon / replacement job?
And finally can recommend me a place to get it rebuilt, (is an ashcroft one worth the extra money?) this one was done about 80,000 miles ago, ought to last longer than that, shouldnt it?
and btw, Merry xmas everyone...
I got a box rebuilt by a 'specialist' and it leaked after 2 weeks and got worse as time went on. In total it lasted about 20000 miles and 18 months before it rattled like a bog o spanners.
2nd box came from ashcroft's. Service is excellent and at least i know that if anything does go wrong they will sort it. Well worth the extra money.
Reverse and 5th both sit in the extension part of the box thus the whole box hasn't exploded so it may be worth sending your own box away to get rebuilt as this is often cheaper.
If its an LT77 and its had a hard life or done a lot of heavy towing then 80,000 is about right for death.
Surely the only way the cheaper recon's are done is by using cheaper parts ???
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Only other advice is don't go for the cheapie plugs as they don't last. Get beru or some other well known make.
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It definately sounds like waxing to me. I've got a heated filter on mine. Its heated by the coolant water. I've had exactly the same problem before and its not pleasant keep getting stuck out in the cold. The defender tank is in a bad place and gets all the snow off the road and also all the cold air flow when traveling.
Don't use keroscene as yes it will work but its got a yellow dye in the fuel just the same as red diesel has a red dye and is detectable by them customs people long after the fuel has been used.
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Thanks evolwood, fellow cumbrian ere, thanks for the advise.
will it be ok to still drive until i have time to sort the thermostat?
Who knows
Thats one of them questions that really can't be answered.
If i was you then i'd take it in somewhere to be done if ya aint got time to sort it or if ya a softy and don't like working outside with water in -5 temperatures.
Dunno where you are in cumbria but if ya take it to simon .. http://www.cumbrialandrover.com/ i'm sure he'll sort it for ya and will probably lend ya a car to run about in while he does.
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Any help on how to check if thermostat stuck and how to unblock an airlock? I did fit a new water pump about 3 month ago but everything was fine until now?
will the freebie be ok to drive until i get it sorted?
Take the thermostat out and check that you can't see through it. There is kind of an inner disk and outer disk, a bit hard to explain really, and when heated to about 90 'C the inner disk should start moving away from the outer disk allowing you to see through it. So the way to test it is to stick it in a pan of boiling water and see what temperature it opens at.
We are talking about the stat which is about 60mm in diameter though and not the one with the wires on
The stat would only need to be stuck open a very tiny amount to cause problem in recent weather.
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Before spending loads of time or cash i'd try one of them neutradol ball thingys.
I got a car that stunk and after a while with one of them things in it t'was ok.
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Before writing the engine off i would do as suggested first in case the valve is not bent but just seized in the guide - some WD40 etc. to see if it will free up.
Agree with steve. This is probably freeable. It'll wear ur guide quicker but if ur not using it much then it'll probably last for many years.
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TBH the best way is to get a haynes manual then y'all have some pics to look at and the bolt tightening order etc.
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Not sure about the pic as it could be many things..
Problem sound like crappy fuel or its dragging air into the fuel line. This could also explain why it got worse when you changed the lift pump as you will of disturbed the pipework. Easy check is to get a bic pen without the tiny hole in the side and cut the narrow end off. Then insert this into the fuel line prior to the main injector pump.. Don't drive around like this though. If you see loads of air then that'll be the problem.
Also while your there make sure that the new lift pump is pumping correctly when using the little handle on the back as copy versions of this pump tend to be
. It could be that the diaphram has gone in the new pump. -
i have just purchased a jreg discovery 200tdi manual with a gearbox fault and was wondering if anyone on here could help
it will only drive in difflock engaged and it will not select reverse, it feels as if the gate isnt even there for reverse
any help would be much appreciated ie, is it the main box knackered or the transfer box
Both
The transfer box is likely to be the cause of it only being drivable with diff lock on. Unless of course a prop shaft is missing or diff or drive shaft or drive flange is goosed. If ya drop the props and turn the flanges hard on the diff's and they have play but are solid then it'll be the transfer box. Dont jump into changing the transfer box though as any of the other options are just as likely and cheaper.
The not selecting reverse sounds like an adjustment problem. If ya take the rubbers off and foam at the bottom of the gearstick theres adjusters there. I'm trying to remember if it was this box that you could screw the reversing sensor in too far which would cause it to block. May be worth unscrewing the reverse sensor as well just in case my memory works.
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If you are wiring the glow plugs then you will need the relay to do the switching, as running the heavy cable to the dash and using a high current switch to turn em on is possible but not advisable especially considering how cheap the relays are.
Why not just use a time on relay like whats on loads of cold start systems. or just go to the scrappy and get the proper relays for the landy. Probably no more work to fit it properly anyway. I'm sure someone will post you the 200tdi wiring diagram if you need it.
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I think going with the listed parts on the Ashcroft site is the best move at least the guys there will be able to give 1st class advice.
Agreed ... http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_119.html Good prices as well at £24 for the release bearing i mentioned
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TBH western you should have a UTJ100210 release bearing. They are much the same, except for the price, but are cut away on the back where the slippers go and have a slightly shallower bearing part. Not worth taking the box off to change it unless you start getting clutch slippage. Reason i say sliuppage is that as the clutch plate wears, the fingers on the pressure plate stick out more and this is when you need the extra room provided by UTJ100210.
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You can use the same operating fork,slipper pads x 2, release bearing,cylinder pushrod from the LT77, the slave cylinder needs to be the Tdi version to fit the flywheel housing location.
EEEkkk, No ralph, not the same release bearing and not the same push rod.
The push rod will be far too long and the standard release bearing will cause the clutch to never quite release fully causing very premature wear. I've got the part numbers written down somewhere if ya need em.
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anyone know how many ltrs it holds as going to drop the coolent and renew it with fresh antifreeze
cheers
11.1 ltrs
. It could be that the diaphram has gone in the new pump.
TDi idle-on
in International Forum
Posted
It is also slightly possible that you can still see the swarf slther with the solenoid removed. If this is the case then it may be pulled out with long nose pliers.
Way to check if its electrical leakage is just to pull the wire off the stop solenoid when the engine is at idle. If the engine cuts out properly every time then there is no need to remove the solenoid at all.