evolwood

It is also slightly possible that you can still see the swarf slther with the solenoid removed. If this is the case then it may be pulled out with long nose pliers. Way to check if its electrical leakage is just to pull the wire off the stop solenoid when the engine is at idle. If the engine cuts out properly every time then there is no need to remove the solenoid at all.

Or the genuine land rover ones like what are fitted in the current 90. Don't go for the cheap exmoor forward facing ones though cos they are not really up to the job.

For startup you need a webasto heater Most problems with waxing don't occur on startup though and it only takes a couple of minutes of the engine running to be warming the fuel enough to be preventing waxing.

Providing that you put the right oil of the right amount in the right place then it does sound like you need to send both boxes off to get reconned. Speak to dave at ashcroft transmissions. There are other things that can cause clunking when taking up drive but as it sounds like your gearbox needs to be taken off then you will be able to do all the checks at the same time.

A heated filter is the normal way to go. Not an electrical one but one that is heated by the coolant. http://www.biotuning.co.uk/PartsFilters.htm . The one shown at the top is probably the best. I think they were also fitted on some kind of renault, maybe a clio but cant fully remember. The reason this works is that the filter is the biggest problem with waxing and it soon blocks up. There is normally enough fuel returned to tank if the fuel is warm to keep that clear.

I got a box rebuilt by a 'specialist' and it leaked after 2 weeks and got worse as time went on. In total it lasted about 20000 miles and 18 months before it rattled like a bog o spanners. 2nd box came from ashcroft's. Service is excellent and at least i know that if anything does go wrong they will sort it. Well worth the extra money. Reverse and 5th both sit in the extension part of the box thus the whole box hasn't exploded so it may be worth sending your own box away to get rebuilt as this is often cheaper. If its an LT77 and its had a hard life or done a lot of heavy towing then 80,000 is about right for death. Surely the only way the cheaper recon's are done is by using cheaper parts ???

Only other advice is don't go for the cheapie plugs as they don't last. Get beru or some other well known make.

It definately sounds like waxing to me. I've got a heated filter on mine. Its heated by the coolant water. I've had exactly the same problem before and its not pleasant keep getting stuck out in the cold. The defender tank is in a bad place and gets all the snow off the road and also all the cold air flow when traveling. Don't use keroscene as yes it will work but its got a yellow dye in the fuel just the same as red diesel has a red dye and is detectable by them customs people long after the fuel has been used.

Who knows Thats one of them questions that really can't be answered. If i was you then i'd take it in somewhere to be done if ya aint got time to sort it or if ya a softy and don't like working outside with water in -5 temperatures. Dunno where you are in cumbria but if ya take it to simon .. http://www.cumbrialandrover.com/ i'm sure he'll sort it for ya and will probably lend ya a car to run about in while he does.

Take the thermostat out and check that you can't see through it. There is kind of an inner disk and outer disk, a bit hard to explain really, and when heated to about 90 'C the inner disk should start moving away from the outer disk allowing you to see through it. So the way to test it is to stick it in a pan of boiling water and see what temperature it opens at. We are talking about the stat which is about 60mm in diameter though and not the one with the wires on The stat would only need to be stuck open a very tiny amount to cause problem in recent weather.

Before spending loads of time or cash i'd try one of them neutradol ball thingys. I got a car that stunk and after a while with one of them things in it t'was ok.

Agree with steve. This is probably freeable. It'll wear ur guide quicker but if ur not using it much then it'll probably last for many years.

TBH the best way is to get a haynes manual then y'all have some pics to look at and the bolt tightening order etc.

Not sure about the pic as it could be many things.. Problem sound like crappy fuel or its dragging air into the fuel line. This could also explain why it got worse when you changed the lift pump as you will of disturbed the pipework. Easy check is to get a bic pen without the tiny hole in the side and cut the narrow end off. Then insert this into the fuel line prior to the main injector pump.. Don't drive around like this though. If you see loads of air then that'll be the problem. Also while your there make sure that the new lift pump is pumping correctly when using the little handle on the back as copy versions of this pump tend to be . It could be that the diaphram has gone in the new pump.

Both The transfer box is likely to be the cause of it only being drivable with diff lock on. Unless of course a prop shaft is missing or diff or drive shaft or drive flange is goosed. If ya drop the props and turn the flanges hard on the diff's and they have play but are solid then it'll be the transfer box. Dont jump into changing the transfer box though as any of the other options are just as likely and cheaper. The not selecting reverse sounds like an adjustment problem. If ya take the rubbers off and foam at the bottom of the gearstick theres adjusters there. I'm trying to remember if it was this box that you could screw the reversing sensor in too far which would cause it to block. May be worth unscrewing the reverse sensor as well just in case my memory works.

If you are wiring the glow plugs then you will need the relay to do the switching, as running the heavy cable to the dash and using a high current switch to turn em on is possible but not advisable especially considering how cheap the relays are. Why not just use a time on relay like whats on loads of cold start systems. or just go to the scrappy and get the proper relays for the landy. Probably no more work to fit it properly anyway. I'm sure someone will post you the 200tdi wiring diagram if you need it.

Agreed ... http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_119.html Good prices as well at £24 for the release bearing i mentioned

TBH western you should have a UTJ100210 release bearing. They are much the same, except for the price, but are cut away on the back where the slippers go and have a slightly shallower bearing part. Not worth taking the box off to change it unless you start getting clutch slippage. Reason i say sliuppage is that as the clutch plate wears, the fingers on the pressure plate stick out more and this is when you need the extra room provided by UTJ100210.

EEEkkk, No ralph, not the same release bearing and not the same push rod. The push rod will be far too long and the standard release bearing will cause the clutch to never quite release fully causing very premature wear. I've got the part numbers written down somewhere if ya need em.

11.1 ltrs