Jump to content

series3100

Settled In
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    69

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Posts posted by series3100

    Sound proofing a series 3

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Camping mats are fine and fire proof, sound deadening the bonnet and floors are really effective, I've a 109 hi-cap pickup and I've done, bonnet, bulkhead front and back, rear bulkhead, roof, floor, doors and seatbox. Let me just say it's really quiet, all these people who say it's a series live with are kidding themselves, land river offered a sound proofing kit many foreign markets, I've seen a Swedish series 3 with a sound proofing kit that did what I've dine but it had the engine and inner wings done aswell.

    Where did you buty the matts from? I'm going to do this method too...

    What glue did you use?

    Cheers, Brian

    Flatbed 90

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Hi all,

    I had a quick search but couldn't find much info at all let alone pictures.

    I'm thinking about cutting the tub off the 90 and making a flatbed type arrangement. I'v been bouncing a few ideas around and I think i'd build a secure box the width of the chassis rails accessed from a fold up section of the flatbed or similar. Really i was just wondering if anyone had any pictures of similar projects, pictures would be great!

    This isn't meant to be a tray back type thing that makes for better offroad geometry, it's meant to make a practicle flatbed. My tyres stick out about an inch so on the front i'm going to put wider spats then probably build the rear bed to the same total width as the new spats come out to and extand it beyond where the rear of the tub would normally end. Other than this it's all just ideas.

    Anyone have any thoughts?

    Cheers,

    Brian

    Doors

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Don't know about the bit you made but I bought a pair of old door locks for my gate latch 90 doors second hand from Newbury.

    There was no key with them but when I tried my existing key I was shocked (though useful) to find that my old key fitted all three locks!

    I have been told that most people change the doors to later plastic handle doors. Even though the handle is at risk of getting broken the mechanism is much more reliable and easily obtainable than gate latch locks?

    Good luck.

    Marc.

    I was determined and I'v done it! :)

    I ended up taking the whole hand and lock mech of the door so i could take it into the warmth and light to have a propper look. I put everything together and fiddled with it for ages, for the life of me i couldn't see how the thing locked by key, it locked manually and then could be unlocked via key... just wasn't locking. I remembered seeing some suspicious bearings earlier so started poking around more inside and found 2 holes that bearings would fit into so i shoved some in. What happens is these 2 bearings are pushed out at a certain handle position and depending where the barrel is depends weather the handle can be moved or not. Put it all together and it works! :D Really am very pleased I have to say :D. I'll upload pics at some stage for others to reference at some stage...

    Brian

    Doors

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Oh :( makes things a little more tricky...

    Brian

    I couldn't find this part anywhere so made one up in the end (had the one from the other door) but my problems just got worse... I put the one i copied back in the door and now it unlocks on the key but has to doesn't lock, same when i tried the other side. what have i missed? I just can't see any logical way the key is meant to lock anything!???

    HELP!

    Cheers,

    Brian

    Doors

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Firstly the doors i have are off a 90, the ones with lift up door handles and cosmetic galv cappings - 1 piece doors though. Anyway do i use the rapair sections for a series or defender? stupid as it sounds....

    Secondly the door lock barrels have a little piece that screws onto the back of them (as in onto the back of the actual barrel) but in the parts manual i can't find them and need one... help, advice? I can't find them anywhere!

    Cheers, Brian

    farilead bolts

    in International Forum

    Posted

    No it isn't - it depends on which winch you have and some winches have four bolts not two :)

    In addition to that some winches have the bolt holes aligned with the slot for the winch rope, and some have them offset to one side (Milemarker is like this for example).

    There are only 3 or 4 common ones but need to know which winch.

    oh i see...

    Reason i ask is because i'm making a rear crossmember with winch mount for my DT project but don't have actually have a winch... it's just for a project + i need a new rear crossmember if you see what i'm getting at

    Thanks for the info,

    Brian

    Wiper wiring

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    I'm sure when me / my old neighbour rewired the series 3 after the rebuild it had 2 speeds on the wipers, well anyway now there's just 1 and the wiring is confusing me beyond belief! Can anyone shed any light on this because the haynes manual isn't being much help either...

    There are 4 wires coming from the wiper motor (well 5 if the black earth's included) and i can't work out if somethings wrong, i'v done something wrong or the switch has made it's self single speed?

    Cheers, Brian

    Charge light on BUT alternator charging well

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    In parallel I think, rather than series, though might as well try both. But the disco one would be a better check.

    If the light is full on, it's unlikely to be due to that though, I'd suspect a duff regulator.

    You can often bodge the sender with one or two resistors (one series, one parallel) but it's likely you get a gauge that only reads right at two places. Done it for fuel gauges in the past, where it can be harder to change the sender. Try to use a series sender if you can though, it's likely to be much less hassle.

    The light is fully on good and bright so i'll try swapping out the the alternator cos i have a spare, then if that doesn't work i'll start playing with bulbs...

    I fitted a series petrol sender with a thread adaptor so i'm not sure what's going on here! :ph34r:

    Cheers, Brian

    Charge light on BUT alternator charging well

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    It's not a glow, it's good n proper!

    Engine off, ignition on - light on.

    While running should I have 12v coming from the brown/yellow wire on the back of the alternator? maybe I should check that? With the ignition on and the engine off the bulb is lit and there is about 1v at the alternator... is this as it should be? I have a second alternator i could swap in but wanted to check first.

    Ooh another electrickery question! My water temp gauge over reads massively, the water's at 60 degrees odd and the needle's in the red. Is this me doing something stupid again or is it just the fact it's a Britpart sender? :huh:

    Brian

    Charge light on BUT alternator charging well

    in Series Forum

    Posted

    Ok... electrics isn't my strong point firstly...

    I fitted a 200tdi into the series 3 and rewired everything so wiring wise there's nothing normal about this :unsure:. The alternator's putting out 14V but the charge light stays on... weird!?

    From the ignition switch the white wire goes to (among other things) one side of the charge light than the brown/yellow wire from the alternator is going to the other side of the light. Being a light bulb it shouldn't matter what side what's attached to it should it?

    I'm a bit baffled cos i thought i'd started to understand electrickery :lol:

    So what stupid thing have i done this time?

    Cheers, Brian

    Disco springs on 90

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Ok thanks all, I was hoping for standard ride height or a small lift so hopefully they'll be ok - 4" would be a bit much! I guess I'll just fit them and see, I'v also got the dampers which are pro-comp jobbies although i can't find which ones. They're definataly harder than the ones on the 90 at the moment but then again they are competely shot so I guess i'll just fit it all and see how it goes...

    On a simialar note what is the easier way of undoing the botttom pin nut on the shocks, they're all pretty stuck and i need the get them off the disco axles so i can sand blast the axle casings.

    Cheers, Brian

    Disco springs on 90

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    I did search but didn't find a definite answer...

    I am braking a disco and will be using the 24 spline axles among other things then realised the springs and shocks on the 90 are getting on a bit now and that the disco ones looked a bit better but also that pro-comp shocks are fitted. As fair as i can work out the springs are std disco ones. Can anyone advise me on the results of fitting these springs and shocks to the 90?

    Cheers, Brian

    A level design tech project

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Right, In order to do this project i have to get feedback from real people / preson throughout the process of designing and manufacturing. I'm going to build it to more or less the spec I listed in one of the previous post. Really what I need is someone who agrees with that spec, or maybe any other additional bits too that people can think off then as i go along i will either post up here or email CAD drawings and actual photos etc and ask for feedback as if you were a customer and i was building it for you. I guess i could have more than one person being the main 'customer' and I'm happy for anyone to give me ideas and general feedback etc.

    So the basic spec is (I'm yet to do any real measuring or anything though) :

    Heavy duty, (undecided on actual wall thicknes)

    Longer taper on ends than std cross-memeber

    2x first four swivelling recovery eye (in-line with chassis rails)

    2x Gu5.3 lights built

    Quick(ish) realease drop-plate to fit over and clear the fairlead

    winch tray mounted behind the crossmember (suitable for budget winches)

    steel roller fairlead

    Sealed construction (as far as possible anyway)

    I think that's^^^ about it

    I was thinking 5mm wall box/rectangle section, it'll be very heavy but that goes with the name heavy duty :rolleyes:, 5mm also makes using fitting the swivel eyes easy too.

    Comments, ideas, "that's idiotic" all welcome :D

    Cheers,

    Brian

    Running a diesel on Kerosene

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Some interesting points and reading there thank you, I wasn't expecting anyone to put there hand up and say yes I run on kero for obvious reasons! :unsure: If there's one thing I'm not going to do that's put red in, I knew someone who used to use red then they weren't dipped but someone actually grassed him in! In short he doesn't drive that landy any more, in fact it no longer exists :o !

    Thanks again,

    Brian

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy

  I accept