series3100

Where did you buty the matts from? I'm going to do this method too... What glue did you use? Cheers, Brian

Hi all, I had a quick search but couldn't find much info at all let alone pictures. I'm thinking about cutting the tub off the 90 and making a flatbed type arrangement. I'v been bouncing a few ideas around and I think i'd build a secure box the width of the chassis rails accessed from a fold up section of the flatbed or similar. Really i was just wondering if anyone had any pictures of similar projects, pictures would be great! This isn't meant to be a tray back type thing that makes for better offroad geometry, it's meant to make a practicle flatbed. My tyres stick out about an inch so on the front i'm going to put wider spats then probably build the rear bed to the same total width as the new spats come out to and extand it beyond where the rear of the tub would normally end. Other than this it's all just ideas. Anyone have any thoughts? Cheers, Brian

I was determined and I'v done it! I ended up taking the whole hand and lock mech of the door so i could take it into the warmth and light to have a propper look. I put everything together and fiddled with it for ages, for the life of me i couldn't see how the thing locked by key, it locked manually and then could be unlocked via key... just wasn't locking. I remembered seeing some suspicious bearings earlier so started poking around more inside and found 2 holes that bearings would fit into so i shoved some in. What happens is these 2 bearings are pushed out at a certain handle position and depending where the barrel is depends weather the handle can be moved or not. Put it all together and it works! Really am very pleased I have to say . I'll upload pics at some stage for others to reference at some stage... Brian

I couldn't find this part anywhere so made one up in the end (had the one from the other door) but my problems just got worse... I put the one i copied back in the door and now it unlocks on the key but has to doesn't lock, same when i tried the other side. what have i missed? I just can't see any logical way the key is meant to lock anything!??? HELP! Cheers, Brian

Oh makes things a little more tricky... Brian

Firstly the doors i have are off a 90, the ones with lift up door handles and cosmetic galv cappings - 1 piece doors though. Anyway do i use the rapair sections for a series or defender? stupid as it sounds.... Secondly the door lock barrels have a little piece that screws onto the back of them (as in onto the back of the actual barrel) but in the parts manual i can't find them and need one... help, advice? I can't find them anywhere! Cheers, Brian

oh i see... Reason i ask is because i'm making a rear crossmember with winch mount for my DT project but don't have actually have a winch... it's just for a project + i need a new rear crossmember if you see what i'm getting at Thanks for the info, Brian

Hi, Can someone tell me the distance between the 2 fearlead mounting bolts (centre to centre)? I assume this is a standard measurment... Thanks very much, Brian

I'm sure when me / my old neighbour rewired the series 3 after the rebuild it had 2 speeds on the wipers, well anyway now there's just 1 and the wiring is confusing me beyond belief! Can anyone shed any light on this because the haynes manual isn't being much help either... There are 4 wires coming from the wiper motor (well 5 if the black earth's included) and i can't work out if somethings wrong, i'v done something wrong or the switch has made it's self single speed? Cheers, Brian

It's got one of those cone filter things on... Cheers, Brian

On a 200tdi if i no longer have a standard airbox where should i put the crankcase breather pipe to? I'v just left it open to atmosphere but i got thinking and thought there must be a better option? Cheers, Brian

Yup I think you may of just confirmed my suspicions... Brian

Job done! swapped to my spare alternator and it finally works . Thanks everyone, Brian

The light is fully on good and bright so i'll try swapping out the the alternator cos i have a spare, then if that doesn't work i'll start playing with bulbs... I fitted a series petrol sender with a thread adaptor so i'm not sure what's going on here! Cheers, Brian

It's not a glow, it's good n proper! Engine off, ignition on - light on. While running should I have 12v coming from the brown/yellow wire on the back of the alternator? maybe I should check that? With the ignition on and the engine off the bulb is lit and there is about 1v at the alternator... is this as it should be? I have a second alternator i could swap in but wanted to check first. Ooh another electrickery question! My water temp gauge over reads massively, the water's at 60 degrees odd and the needle's in the red. Is this me doing something stupid again or is it just the fact it's a Britpart sender? Brian

Ok... electrics isn't my strong point firstly... I fitted a 200tdi into the series 3 and rewired everything so wiring wise there's nothing normal about this . The alternator's putting out 14V but the charge light stays on... weird!? From the ignition switch the white wire goes to (among other things) one side of the charge light than the brown/yellow wire from the alternator is going to the other side of the light. Being a light bulb it shouldn't matter what side what's attached to it should it? I'm a bit baffled cos i thought i'd started to understand electrickery So what stupid thing have i done this time? Cheers, Brian

Does anyone have any experience shipping cars(well a land rover to be precise) from the Uk to somewhere foreign - USA preferably? I'm trying to find out but am not have a whole lot of luck, anyone have any experiance? Cheers, Brian

Ok thanks all, I was hoping for standard ride height or a small lift so hopefully they'll be ok - 4" would be a bit much! I guess I'll just fit them and see, I'v also got the dampers which are pro-comp jobbies although i can't find which ones. They're definataly harder than the ones on the 90 at the moment but then again they are competely shot so I guess i'll just fit it all and see how it goes... On a simialar note what is the easier way of undoing the botttom pin nut on the shocks, they're all pretty stuck and i need the get them off the disco axles so i can sand blast the axle casings. Cheers, Brian

I did search but didn't find a definite answer... I am braking a disco and will be using the 24 spline axles among other things then realised the springs and shocks on the 90 are getting on a bit now and that the disco ones looked a bit better but also that pro-comp shocks are fitted. As fair as i can work out the springs are std disco ones. Can anyone advise me on the results of fitting these springs and shocks to the 90? Cheers, Brian

Hi all, My water temp sender seems to be a bit on the tiddle, well that's my theory anyway but I don't want to count on it so I was thinking after a good run what water temp would be acceptable if I was to poke a thermometer into the rad? Cheers, Brian

Right, In order to do this project i have to get feedback from real people / preson throughout the process of designing and manufacturing. I'm going to build it to more or less the spec I listed in one of the previous post. Really what I need is someone who agrees with that spec, or maybe any other additional bits too that people can think off then as i go along i will either post up here or email CAD drawings and actual photos etc and ask for feedback as if you were a customer and i was building it for you. I guess i could have more than one person being the main 'customer' and I'm happy for anyone to give me ideas and general feedback etc. So the basic spec is (I'm yet to do any real measuring or anything though) : Heavy duty, (undecided on actual wall thicknes) Longer taper on ends than std cross-memeber 2x first four swivelling recovery eye (in-line with chassis rails) 2x Gu5.3 lights built Quick(ish) realease drop-plate to fit over and clear the fairlead winch tray mounted behind the crossmember (suitable for budget winches) steel roller fairlead Sealed construction (as far as possible anyway) I think that's^^^ about it I was thinking 5mm wall box/rectangle section, it'll be very heavy but that goes with the name heavy duty , 5mm also makes using fitting the swivel eyes easy too. Comments, ideas, "that's idiotic" all welcome Cheers, Brian

I sent you my email address the other day but I'm not entirely sure if my PM's actually work... Cheers, Brian

Some interesting points and reading there thank you, I wasn't expecting anyone to put there hand up and say yes I run on kero for obvious reasons! If there's one thing I'm not going to do that's put red in, I knew someone who used to use red then they weren't dipped but someone actually grassed him in! In short he doesn't drive that landy any more, in fact it no longer exists ! Thanks again, Brian

EDIT:... Is Kerosene heater fuel? My dad's just started confusing me even more than usual!