p76rangie
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Posts posted by p76rangie
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I'd question the "significantly", but that argument has been done before.
Given the engine is an '89 EFI and so "high compression" I wouldn't worry about it.
How do you know it is a high compression motor?
He can tell by looking where the engine number is stamped on the block as the compression ratio is stamped at the top right of the engine number.
Even if it is a high compression, the composite gasket will drop the compression ratio to just below a low compression motor.
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Just a point you should note is that using composite gaskets on a 3.5 will lower your compression ratio significantly. So if you started will a low compression motor and add composite gaskets the compression ratio will now be down to around 7.0 to 1. You should only use composite gaskets on 10 bolt heads, not 14 bolt heads. Alternatively you need to shave 40 thou off the 14 bolt heads to compensate for the composite gaskets. That is, 10 bolt heads are 40 thou thinner than 14 bolt heads from the factory to compensate.
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Range Rover produced a number of different dipsticks with different lengths. So someone giving you a measurement is not going to be helpful unless it happens to be the same as yours. As far as I know, they all should have a flare in the tube that marks where it is to me inserted to. That is, it will not go in any further.
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On start up the idle valve will be fully open and will therefore operate at the maximum revs the airflow dictates. You are obviously getting too much air at startup. Since to had the plenum off, it could be that you have a vacuum leak or to failed to connect the various hoses up correctly. Cleaning the intake will also naturally allow more air through, this will mean that you should screw in the base idle adjustment in to reduce the airflow. Forget about the adjustment in the manuals, just screw it in until your cold start up revs commence at around 1,200 RPMs before it starts to adjust itself.
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I believe Mav means the link in this thread http://forums.lr4x4....pic=77868&st=20
Discovery swivel & hub rebuild http://forums.lr4x4....?showtopic=5601
Neither of those links really explain it.
If the swivel seal is in place set it around 7 to 8lb resistance. Without the seal, set is around 3. The extra 4 to 5 lb is the resistance the seal causes.
Make sure the steering and track rods are disconnected.
Put a fishing spring scale onto where the track rod connects to the hub assembly. Slowly move the hub assembly by pulling on the fishing scale. Once you have it moving, check the amount of force (lbs) that is being used to keep it moving.
Under the top pin holding the hub assembly to the swivel housing (held on by 2 bolts directly on top of the hub) there are skims (thin spacers). You might need a micrometer, but you will most likely find they are different thicknesses. remove shims to increase preload add them to increase them. You may need to take out thick ones and add back thin ones or visa versa
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Rubbing on the radius arms has nothing to do with lift. Simply adjust your stops so they won't hit.varies from tyre to tyre but with a camel cut the only issue i had with 235/85/16 BFG AT'S was rubbing my radius arms on full lock. I have since lifted it by 2" and im planning on trimming the arches.
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With a Camel Cut, Yes.
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Are you sure they have "soft" valve seats. Basically every motor since the introduction of unleaded fuel has hard seats in them. The lead that use to be in fuel decades ago use to cushion the valves when hitting the seats. Once the lead was removed from fuel they had to build motors with the harder seats.
The lack of lubricant in LPG mainly relates to possible wear on the valve stem and guides, not the seats.
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Yes, but you would need to lower the bump stops.
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Soon after the D2 was released we took one with only traction control and one that re-instated its centre difflock out bush. It was winter and put them on hills that neither would get all the way. There was bugger all difference between the two. Sometimes the traction control vehicle got further, sometimes the difflock/traction control one did.
Even though I would prefer one with a difflock, I cannot give any real reason for my view.
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Mine is a smart closed loop system and does not warm up on petrol
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Here is a video of one of our trips that happened last weekend.
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Thank you guys.
I've got a bodyliftet (50 mm) RRC and would have liked to go back to standard "lift", but ended up at about 25 mm. lift.
Thanks.
Morten
When you do a body lift the standard spacers/rubber bushes go back in, so the lift is exactly equal to what you are adding.
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Turbo is lubricated by engine oil. Stuffed shaft allowing oil past into air intake, therefore using oil. You should not drive it as the motor can actually run on the oil that is escaping. If it does it will not stop running until all the oil is used and the motor is completely knackered.
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Have seen 34 inch tyres on many D2's without any body mods required
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I have tried losening the sector shaft endfloat adjuster a little but this just made it have play but still stiff to turn.
Have you made sure that the steering box is centred properly (as in equal number of turns to right and left lock).
Did you adjust the backlash with it in the centre position. They are designed to have slop when not driving straight ahead. The more left or right the worse it gets. If the backlash is set off centre, it will bind in the centre position.
The main thing that wears in the boxes is the worm drive. It off course will wear most where it gets the most use (near the straight ahead position). They are worth a bit to buy and therefore people "reconditioning" the boxes tend not to replace them. But a worn one will generally cause binding either side of centre, not at the centre.
If the backlash is excessive in turning the wheel in one direction and tighter in the other, the worm drive bearings are shot.
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Steering is heavy in the middle position then goes lighter once you get a bit of a turn going. This is unpleasant. It also won't self centre when you let the caster do its job . The wheel is stiff and stays where you put it, which makes precise adjustments to straight line driving a real chore.
Sounds like it is your uni-joints and not your steering box. Take the shaft out and make sure the uni's move freely in both directions.
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You LPG system should have one or two relays fitted that switch the signal on or off to the fuel injectors when on LPG. As you are only running on petrol at the moment, try fining the relays and bi-pass them to see if they are faulty and causing an issue or whether the LPG system is switching off the injectors when you don't want it to.
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What type of LPG system do you have on it. Some start on petrol and then switch to LPG once the engine is warm. It could be cutting out when switching to petrol.
If you are starting on LPG, it there coolant getting to the convertor. It could be freezing up which is causing it to stop.
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i used this thread as a rough guide to do my clutch
http://forums.lr4x4....?showtopic=6268
again as you can see, no wires, sensors or anything to do with the diff lock were touched.
Most would drop the gearbox right out so that it is easier to work on. In such cases the wires are unplugged. But as you stated, whether the light was working before they touched it would be difficult to prove.
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i done the cluch on my disco
At no point on changing the cluch did i remove gear linkage, remove any wiring for the dash light or remove/touch any sensors
so it begs the question was the light working before the mechanic changed the cluch?? if so then there is a reason why he removed the wires to the light. that could be a point to bring up with him.
probably a very long shot but you dont have any pictures with the centre diff light on do you?
it helps to put the centre diff lock in to help line the input shaft up so it could be something happened when he did this and rather fix it he disconnected the dash light. failing that i cannot see any reason the mechanic would need to touch the light, sensors, wiring or the diff lever/linkage
hope this helps
Did you remove the gearbox to change the clutch or did you remove the engine. Removing the gearbox will require you to move and unplug the things mentioned. Removing the motor may not.
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So fit one and it's no problem?
Of course I am fitting one. Have also changed my speedo to electronic while I was at it.
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Wires that connect to points 27,28,29,30,31 on connector 32 can all be ignored, these are to do with the aircon, so unless fitted are not required. It's a loose plug so leaving it in situ is not a problem.
So what you are saying is that even though air-con was fitted to the majority of Rangies, you should just ignore it. Don't worry about you idle not being adjusted under the load of the aircon, etc. Don't even worry about the fans in front of the radiator, as they are not important either.
Connector 12:
Top pin: ignition feed
Next: Out to EFI warning light (not required or fitted in many cases)
Next: Neutral/Park switch for auto box -not required is a manual, but very easy to fit if it is an auto
Then you just need to ground the obvious points and job done.
So again you are saying that you do not need to know if the ECU has picked up a fault in the system as the check engine light is not required.
I am not sure why Land Rover wiring in a 480 ohm resistor into the neutral wire when wired for a manual. Obviously all the other literature about what is needed in a manual is also wrong. So we can just leave out the resistor as it does nothing.
Alternator IND wire, tacho and main battery charging wire is part of a separate loom, so you can leave your existing wiring in place with no duplication.Speed sensor makes very little difference in my experience, but there is of course nothing to stop you fitting it anyways.
I am not sure what you are getting your wiring loom from, but in the discos the wiring for the alternator and everything on the top of the engine runs through the one wiring loom. The Rangie I am not sure about as I have changed the wiring a few times and I am not 100% sure how it was original.
As stated previously, there is a big difference between doing only enough to get the motor to run and actually doing it properly
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But most of what you have highlighted there makes little or no difference. both my cars run perfectly. idle perfectly and ones manual and one is auto. engine braking is as you can imagine slightly better in the manual.
The ECU does two main things related to speed that cause issue without a transducer. Firstly, throttle off and car near stationery, it will attempt to adjust the idle. With no transducer it will think that the vehicle is stationery all the time. So whenever you back off the throttle it will attempt to adjust the idle. So when you actually do stop it has attempted to switch the idle right down and easily could stall. This means that you will be mainly relying on your base idle settings, which will still cause the motor to idle incorrectly until the motor reaches running temp.
Secondly, the ECU will cut fuel to the injectors when you take your foot off the throttle and are still moving. It will not cut the injectors when you are not moving. So with no transducer it will never know you are moving and it will never cut the injectors. Therefore, engine braking is affected.
These affects are not imaginery. You can check in any literature on the 14CUX and they will confirm the effects.
New head gaskets leaking oil
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
I have put composite gaskets on 14 bolt heads before and yes no one died. But I later corrected the situation and the change in performance was very noticeable.
A motor will run at a compression ratio of 7 to 1, but no that well. But people that make this mistake are usually fixing something on the motor that was making it run even worse and get an improvement over what they had, but not what they should have.
You did not answer as to how you know how his motor is high compression.
It is people saying that fitting composite gaskets to 14 bolt heads is OK that requires these discussions to take place.