p76rangie
-
Posts
294 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by p76rangie
-
-
my problem is not kick down it just doesn't change into top gear without me backing off the power a touch first
The kickdown cable controls both changing up and changing down. You backing off the power releases the cable and allows it to change up. Lengthening the adjustment will have the same impact and allows it to change up earlier.
-
ok will try the kickdown cable first if no good will look at transfer box i need enaugh power off road as i shoot on some very hilly land
I used to own a freelander for my sins and it couldn't get up a lot of the hills I needed to get up 
also 1.4 transfer box ? 
what did they come out of?The different transfer case only changes high range, not low range. So if it is more power off road that you need it will not give it to you. You will need to change diff ratios instead.
-
Tyres are borderline as to whether to change ratios or not. I would not bother. Tyres have nothing to do with it overrevving before changing gears.
-
Just adjust your kickdown cable so the thing changes gears at the right time. It sounds like you have it too tight at the moment and it needs to be slackened off a bit. Go to the auto store and buy a cheap tacho, it will at least tell you whether it is really over revving or not.
-
Up around 10 to 12 BTDC is fine for a combination of LPG and petrol. How far after that will depend on the octane of the petrol you run. The higher the octane the higher the advance you can run.
-
The link takes me to my own videos - I think you've posted the 'my channel' link rather than the one for the actual video.
Sorry, Here is the right link
-
Just went out for a relatively easy run on Saturday, But you can see how we clean the cars at the end of the day.
-
The problem with your analogy is that porch lights (at least the ones we use here) do not direct light in any particular direction. There is no beam. So the light is diffuse and short range. So of course you get the effect you are talking about.
Now, turn the porch light off, and hold a bright flashlight (torch) over and behind your head. Now you can see much further than you could with no light, but obviously only in the beam area. Now take 4 flashlights and hold them over your head so you have many beams...
Now, take the flashlights, and lower them to waist height. How much of your yard can you see beyond the porch railing? Not much, because the porch railing is blocking most of the beam. Same effect happens when there is a rise in the road. You can't see anything beyond it when the light is on the bumper.
Why don't rally cars have them on the roof? Well, they have...
They don't do it now mostly because of aerodynamics. It's a trade-off. Since rally cars know EXACTLY what is beyond every rise, and have detailed notes on exactly where and how fast to go over every bump and yump. They don't NEED to see into every dip in the road. In the odd case where they get it wrong, or something surprises them that they could not see, well, rally cars fare pretty well in crashes (unlike trucks). So, the tradeoff for wind resistance is worth it.
I think you are missing the point. I am not talking about the porch light helping you see into the distance. What I am suggesting is that turning it off will help you see better into the distance. Lights on the roof placed forward like the disco pictured in the previous post will light up the bonnet and windscreen just like the porch light will light up around you. As the foreground is lighter it will make it harder to see into the distance as yours eyes will adjust to the amount of light in the foreground. Just like using the fog lights below the front bumper will actually make it more difficult to see into the distance as they light up the foreground.
I think you will find that most rally drivers will disagree with your assumption that they do not need to see the road well. The aerodynamic argument also does not hold water as they will make up large fiberglass mounts that sit above the bonnet line to mount the driving lights in.
-
OK lets be stupid then.
Offcourse I could even read a book on the bonnet. But the roof lights doesn't illuminate the bonnet whit direct light or cause an irritating blinding effect if placed a far back as on mine.
Not attempting to get stupid, just giving the facts. Stand on your front or rear porch at night with the porch light above or behind your head. Compare how far you can see into the distance with the porch light on and off. Bet you will see further with it off. Your pupils will adjust to the immediate light around you. They will adjust to the brighter light near you and therefore will not be correct for seeing longer distances into the dark.
So if you are attempting to see longer distances at night you do not want things lit up in the foreground.
How many rally cars do you see with lights on their roof. These guys are interested in seeing well into the distance at high speed.
The trucks here in Oz do very long distances at night and I have never seen one with lights on the roof. But that is assuming that you are talking about semi-trailer type trucks and not F100's.
This is my daughter's truck. 65 ton fully loaded.
-
I disagree in scandinavia almoast all long haul trucks have their lights on the roof.
Mine does not light up the bonnet. In a car you have to place the a bit back on the roof.
I see almoast a mile ahead.
Al my lamps are spot. Dont need spread pattern whit 9 lamps as the 2 worklights are also connected to highbeam.
So what you are saying that with the roof lights on you could not read your watch or see other things on the bonnet, or even worse something on the outside of the windscreen.
-
Love the matching green tyre valve covers.
-
All lights on the roof do is light up the bonnet and foreground and make it harder to see into the distance. Alright for off-road where you are not interested in seeing a long way, but pretty useless on the road. If you want to upgrade your lighting just put a couple of descent HID driving lights up front. The old Cibie Oscars are reasonably good and you get one in a spread beam and one in a spot for the best of both worlds.
-
Is your car standard height or lifted. A spring lift will always give the symptoms that you have.
-
so could anyone see them?
I could link you to all the pics on another LR forum but I dont know if I am allowed to? mods?
Nope, still can't see them
-
The pics are in my gallery but I had trouble getting in myself too , sometimes it only shows like 3 of them and other all about 35 of them
try this link:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?app=gallery&module=user&user=31651&do=view_album&album=1178
There are two pages worth
Your link keeps on coming up with this when I go into it.
"Error Occurred
Sorry, an error occurred. If you are unsure on how to use a feature, or don't know why you got this error message, try looking through the help files for more information.
[#107140] Sorry, but you do not have permission to use this feature. If you are not logged in, you may do so using the form below if available."
-
I had to drag mine out today to do some work to the garage. So here are some pics of where it is up to.
-
Wasn't able to see the photos either.
I don't restore them, I cut them up.
-
Not my RRC or disco..
I would take it back for a refund then.
I am not going to argue with you anymore. It is a simple thing for people to crawl underneath and have a look if they are really interested.
-
You will only have a hole if you have a timing belt and or a clutch, the theory is any oil escaping via a faulty seal will drain out and not contaminate belt or clutch plates, also the holes are positioned at the lowest point of the timing case or bell housing.. But then you know all that.
And yes there is one in the auto bell housing as well.
-
Hey chaps
is it do- able to fit +2 springs on standard height shocks, cars a D2 V8 converted to coils..
Cheers
Most "spring lift" springs are not much longer than standard and therefore standard shocks are fine.
-
D2 Autos don't have wading plugs either diesel or petrol just the same as petrol D1s autos, so it not a wading plug hole.
Who told you that. I have a D1 and it certainly has a wading plug hole. The photo for this thread is also that of a wading plug hole.
-
Those are some fantastic Photoshop skills! The goal for mine is the original image
The colour is Tuscan Blue, paint code LR236 if that's any use
Cheers for thus replies guys, looks like I need to avoid avoid the later models if I want a drop-in replacement.
I had already purchased the paint and the colour I am using is a Ford colour called Bionic Blue. It is a bit brighter than the Tuscan Blue, but close enough to get a reasonable idea of how it will look.
-
What my ute will look like when finally finished thanks to your photo posted.
-
And because this topic is quite boring as a reward for getting this far, have some shamelessly stolen pictures of Range Rovers:
I just like the photo of the 2 door. It is very close to the colour that I will be painting my 2 door Ute. I did not realise that I was painting it an original colour. The photo has also given me an indication of what it will look like.
This is a photo of the colour I will be painting it.
I used to own a freelander for my sins and it couldn't get up a lot of the hills I needed to get up 
also 1.4 transfer box ? 
Shocks and springs query
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
You will find that "lift" springs are no longer extended than standard springs. Therefore you should run standard length shocks unless you want them to dislocate.