The Mule

Hi, Needing some guidance/help. Have a 1985 110, I have just noticed an oil patch on the drive, checked it and it is diff/axle oil (did the smell test) it is coming from the left swivel ball - where it goes to the cup? I do not have gaiters fitted and the ball is a bit pitted. I am leaning towards a knackered swivel oil seal, but not sure how to test/confirm, also needing a bit of a breakdown diagram to know how to take it apart. Do I have to strip the entire corner down to fit the seal, seal retainer gasket and seal retainer?? Also is it then worth fitting gaiters to protect? Any help or links to methods on the site and diagrams is definitely welcomed! Handy with the spanners, but not stripped axle down before. Many thanks in advance for any help Mark R

In need of help or direction. The wiper linkage cable on my 1985 110 snapped a while back, does anyone have a link to a diagram on how to remove the wiper linkage assembly so I can change the cable? the motor is fine, just the lug off the end of the cable came off. I was going to weld it back on but for the £7 for a new cable, no point. Just struggling to find any diagrams or a section on the forum, as I am sure there's an easy way and a hard way to do it and don't want to go the hard route!! Thanks in advance

I know it could be anything causing the issue and remote fixes a long shot, but have lost power to the rear tail lights (side lights). some time ago had to bridge the right and left lights due to a damaged wire in the rear of the loom. So rear lights and number plate light all pull from the right rear light. The brake lights work, but when the main lights are switched on, the rear lights will not come on. The fuse is fine (looks to be fine) put the old multimeter on what looks to be the correct wire and zero volts coming through (well 0.24 volts) It is a 1985 110 commercial. Wanting to know the best way to fix. The fact that the front side lights also work, also lead me to think the fuses are fine (have as I said taken the fuses out and checked). Do the take any feed from the front lights, as fitted a new front indicator housing yesterday - did not tap into the lighting system though - but not sure if the rear lights were working before - not something I would normally check when doing a simple change. What wire could I connect to to power the lights - as stated, would only need to strap to one as have had to bridge on the rear left hand lighs from right hand. Also any thioughts on the fuse size that should go in as I have doubled the load on the fuse only originally wired up to feed one rear light. Appreciating any useful input on this one. Mark

Have now fitted the new Prop shaft and initial findings are good, the chirping has ceased to be. Not saying this is the cure for all chirping synptoms people may have, but in my case it has cured it. Many thanks to all

Have had the mule over the pit and what would you know, the U/J on the front prop has more play in it than a box full of plays that are playing their asses off. Have a new prop on order, looked at changing the U/J out, but told it is a press out job and at £55 notes for a new prop, figured just better to fit new. Will be fitting shortly, will update shortly and let you guys know if it cures all. Thanks for the direction guys

Hi, First post and its a problem LOL, Have a 110 defender 1985, just developed a chirping on what sound to be coming from gearbox, only happening when accelerating. If clutch is depressed it goes off, also if lift off accelerator pedal sound goes off. It is a chirping type sound. Any clue or direction on what to start looking at - Obviously will start in Gearbox area, but not sure what it could be, worn clutch, thrust bearing?? Cheers in advance Mark