[Cracked Head??]

I've got a 1/2" drive right-angle windy gun which could get into tight spots, it's not an impact gun but once I crack the nuts it will do the rest. Maybe I need to put a cordless gun on my next XMAS list?

[Cracked Head??]

Yep, I was going to remove them anyhow as it makes engine removal a fair bit easier apparently. I did manage to get the top 3 bell housing bolts out OK using 3 extensions on my ratchet going in from the transmission tunnel inside the cab when I did the Flexi plate, but if there is enough play in the selector cable I may be able to drop the front of the engine enough without disconnecting if from the gearbox.

[Which Head Gasket?]

Cheers guys, laminated it is then

[Which Head Gasket?]

Which head gasket does the collective recommend? Laminated or multi-layer metal one?

[Cracked Head??]

Thanks Iain

I must admit, I am tempted to go for it using your method, but knowing the fun I've had in the past with core plug removal and refitting, I think I might be tempting fate doing it in the car. There is quite a bit of oil staining down the left-hand side of the block too so I think I might be as well to lift the engine, give it a good going over and clean up.

I've already got the radiators out, turbo out, and I replaced the flexi plate between the torque converter and the flywheel not so long ago so I know I can get the top bell-housing bolts out which seems to be one of the worst jobs on the Discos. I should be able to leave the power steering undisturbed by just unbolting the pump from the mounting bracket I hope. It has Air-Con, so I will do the same for the pump for that too.

Whilst it is all off, I will give everything a good going-over to try and nail any more issues that might be waiting in the wings

Just need to get somewhere to check the head for me now.

[Cracked Head??]

I have managed to take a picture of the offending core plug with the judicious use of a mirror, torch and some trickery pokery!

I have also added a couple of pictures of the head and gasket along with the restrictor which came away from the gasket when I removed the head.

As can be seen from the picture of the block, the heat shield between the block and the bulkhead is pretty rusty so I am guessing it has been getting pretty damn wet?

[Cracked Head??]

Well, taken the head off and the gasket doesn't look to have any breaks/leaks that I can see. I haven't got an engineers straight edge, but using two different thick steel rules there is the smallest amount of warp on the head but I cannot be 100% it is within limits so I will have to find somewhere to get it checked.

But.....the coolant must be going somewhere, and I am sure there was none in the oil and no oil in the coolant. So I have checked all around the system to try and see if there is any evidence of leaks and I think my worst fear has been realised! Using a mirror and torch, it looks like the core plug at the rear of the block is pretty rusty on about 1/3 of the edge, and if it is that rusty on the outside I am betting it is going to be pretty grotty on the inside?

So my money is on a leak from there once the system gets up to temperature. I am guessing that the only way to replace it is engine out?

I have spent so many hours and long nights trying to sort this out, and feel like cutting a damn hole in the bulkhead so I can replace the core plug from inside the cab!!!

Any advice/hints for replacing it and if I am making the right move?

Sorry for the essay

JB

[Cracked Head??]

Well, after 'sorting' out the loss of coolant (or thinking I had, silly me!), when moving house recently, driving the Disco to the new place with caravan on the back, got just under half-way - around 12 miles - and the temp gauge started climbing again! Pulled over, lost around 1 1/2 gallons of water, topped it up again and it went down to well below half-way in a matter of minutes. Got recovered along with the van to the new house and now have the truck in the shed waiting for my attention.

After all I have done/checked (see the links below) I have decided that there must be either a warped head or maybe even a crack so am going to strip down the top end and get the head checked out for the above.

Can anyone suggest anywhere within the Bude area of Cornwall? I'm sure that there must be plenty of Landy places around the area but don't want to end up at some cowboy engineer who takes great pleasure in making many sharp intakes of breath

Previous posts:

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=90727&hl=overheating

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=91507

Cheers and Merry Xmas & a Happy New Year,

JB

[New auxiliary belt starting to breakdown]

I replaced the Aux belt on our Disco 1 300TDi around 300 miles ago, and today I noticed that it looked like it was starting to break down! It looks like an F1 tyre after a good lap!! almost looks like it's de-laminating on the smooth edge and feels slightly sticky to the touch.

She seems to be charging OK, and the power steering seems fine, so I am sure there is nothing binding on the belt.

Could it be that it's just a cheap belt that can't handle it?

Any help or advice would be great

[Disco 1 losing water]

Well, I thought I had sorted it out after replacing the expansion bottle and cap. After a couple of shortish runs, the temp was rock solid, and the level in the expansion bottle dropped by around 1/2" or so once the water was up to temp, and returned to the fill line when cool.

But after a run of around 60 miles today, although the temp was solid, the heater worked fine once warm, but after I stopped for about 10 minutes, when I restarted, although the temp was showing just a little under 'norm', the heater was almost cold, but after around 3-4 minutes of driving the heater was hot again. Once I stopped, I checked the water level, but this time it was up by around 1"!?? So I am now even more confused than before

Can I assume it still has an airlock and hence the varying level of coolant in the bottle and heater issue? I cannot see any signs of leaking around the system.

I am going to get an adaptor and try the method Boydie has suggested and see if that does the job.

Any ideas gratefully received.

[Disco 1 losing water]

Thanks for the replies guys. I have replaced both expansion bottle and cap as there is definitely staining around the seam of the old bottle.

I bled the system by filling the radiator through the top cap, replaced the cap then filled the thermostat housing until the expansion bottle was showing the correct level. I then ran the engine with the radiator cap off for a few minutes, cracked the thermostat housing cap open until water came out then nipped it back up again. Then I put the expansion bottle cap back on and went for a short drive. All this done with the heater on max heat.

The temperature was rock steady at the norm (just under half way), and the water level looked OK. I left it for about 15 minutes, checked the water, and it had risen by about 1 1/2 inches. I checked it again when the engine was fully cold and the bottle was almost full! I assumed some sort of air lock causing the water to back up in the bottle, (the radiator was still full). I drained the water to the fill level, ran the engine with the cap off and cracked the thermostat housing cap again until water ran out then re-tightened. Ran up to temp and then a short drive, the heater was hot, the water in the bottle dropped by around 1/2" and the top and bottom hoses were hot. The radiator was mostly hot, but only warm at the offside end (I assumed this was because I only went for a short drive rather than a blockage in the radiator?)

I could smell no trace of diesel etc. in the coolant nor any steam or smell of antifreeze in the exhaust.

Anyhow, checked the water the following morning and it was back to the fill line, and no signs of any loss that I could see.

I will have to keep an eye on it for now and hope that all is well

[Disco 1 losing water]

I do love Disco's

It has been known for the joint between the two halfs to split and also for the rad caps to fail holding pressure too.

Have you had a sniff test for exhaust gasses in the water? (sorry, being lazy and not read your other thead yet, might be back with a new answer later ).

I assume a 300Tdi? can be a bugger to bleed properly!!!

Not smelled the exhaust, but I don't see any evidence of steam in the gases. Also no signs of water in the oil or any pressure in the rocker cover. I've just bought a new expansion bottle and cap so next thing to do is try that. I had another look around the old bottle and it looks like there is a fair bit of moisture around the base and the seam.

BTW, it is 300TDi as you say

[Disco 1 losing water]

Hi all.

After several attempts at sorting my overheating Disco 9 (see http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=90727&hl=overheating), I thought I had sorted it out. I eventually replaced the thermostat and water pump, bled in several different ways as advised on here and she seemed to be rock steady at just under 1/2 on the temp gauge. After a few shortish trips and around 150 miles, all seemed well. But last night after around 20 mins, the temp started to climb again . I stopped before she went too high, opened up the cap and there was much knocking and burbling, so I assumed low water and air in there again. I let it cool a little and put about almost a gallon of coolant back in and the temp seemed to stabilize at very slightly higher than normal. She got us home OK and when I popped the bonnet, I noticed that there seemed to be a fair bit of water around the front and side of the expansion bottle. It also seemed to be hissing around the seam so my guess is that the bottle is leaking under pressure.

Has anyone had this happen before?

I am now looking for another bottle and hoping this will get rid of the issue once and for all!!

Any ideas/suggestions gratefully received.

Gotta love Discos!!

[300TDi overheated]

I didn't touch the thermostat housing, just the water pump and PS pump/alternator mount bracket. I guess I could just take the truck for a drive and check after a while to see if the water is flowing correctly?

I must admit, I always thought the thermostat would open once the temp reached 'normal' otherwise the engine could overheat if it raised and water weas only going around the block/heater?

[300TDi overheated]

Well, replaced the pump got everything back together. Bled the system as best I could.

The heater seems to work fine once the engine warms up, and the temp gauge sits around 1/3, but I am not sure the thermostat is opening. The large pipe from the pump to the radiator/expansion bottle gets hot, and the expansion bottle seems pretty warm. But the top hose from radiator to thermostat housing, and the radiator itself (apart from the end where the pipes connect) is cool. I have bled the radiator via the top cap, the thermostat housing via the brass plug but I cannot seem to get the top hose or radiator hot.

Any advice would be gratefully received

[300TDi overheated]

Thanks for all the replies guys

Finally managed to get the alternator/power steering pump/water pump casting off after much effing and blinding. Luckily after a little judicious anger with the blow torch and a pair of mole grips I managed to get what was left of the sheared stud out.

Not sure whether to re-use the old pump or get a new one. So, do I replace the pump or re-use the old one? It looks reasonable and seems solidly attached to the shaft, but I would hate to fit it and have another issue.

Has anyone used 'lr-trade parts uk' on eBay? They have good feedback but I've no idea what the parts are like.

Any suggestions welcomed.

JB

[300TDi overheated]

OK, bear with me for the scenario:

2 weeks ago the stud for the serpentine belt tensioner snapped and the belt came adrift. I got the truck home, replaced the stud and the belt as a matter of course. Belt was really tight to get on (right one chosen from measurements and VIN) but I assumed it was because it was brand new.

Had some squeaking after a few minutes of running but nothing too bad so I put up with it until I could get round to the penny trick which I assumed would be the problem.

Driving locally this week, and the temp gauge seemed to be all over the place, almost like there was a dodgy connection. But the main thing was the heater blower was not even warm. Engine seemed to run fine, so I carried on. On the way home, the needle moved up a bit then towards the red, but this time it seemed to stay up there. So I pulled over and stopped the engine. I gave it 10 minutes to cool down, checked the water (which was low), topped up the level and tried to start her. It would barely turn over.

My first thought was it was nearing seizure so I left it alone and called the rescue boys.

I had 2 thoughts as to the problem:

1. Big airlock causing the lack of reading on the temp gauge and also overheating.

2. Water pump foobarred causing no cooling, but would not explain apparent water loss (unless airlock as well)

I took the water pump off and although a little on the rusty side, the vanes are still connected to the shaft/pulley and there is no telltale of water from the weep hole underneath.

Also, in the process, one of the long studs holding the pump and alternator/steering pump bracket has sheared!

I checked manually for compression and it seemed good, so I attempted to turn the engine on the starter with the injection pump solenoid disconnected and it was fine, so I reconnected the solenoid and the engine started fine. I have checked for water in the oil and there seems to be no sign of it.

I would appreciate any feedback on what may be/have been the issue, and also any advice on removing the support bracket/pump carrier.

Sorry for the life story but it saves lots of questions after

Thanks in advance guys.

JB

[Fan belt tensioner bolt sheared]

Good point chap! I only drilled into it about 5-6mm and it started screwing in, so I reversed the drill and hey presto! Easiest easy-out I'd ever done

[Fan belt tensioner bolt sheared]

Evening all.

Just on my way home when I heard a short clatter from the engine bay, thought nothing of it then the battery light came on and the steering went into muscle-man mode!

I assumed that the belt had snapped so drove home and on popping the lid found the centre bolt for tensioner had snapped just inside the mount. I managed to drill the old one out fairly easy so need to replace it (and the belt to be on the safe side as it was half rubbing on the remaining pulleys so is probably pooped)

I have a feeling I may have overtightened the bolt when I replaced the idler pulley bearing a few weeks ago so more than likely my bad!

I was wondering where is the best place to get one, or can I use a standard 8.8 bolt, I haven't checked yet, but it looks like it's an M10 thread. So will an 8.8 do the job? It's not monstrous torque so I thought it would be OK.

Any help/advice appreciated guys.

JB

[Discovery 1 front brake issues]

Well, got the old pistons out and they were cr*p! I've done plenty of fine steel wool followed by 5000 grit crocus paper and they have been fine with new seals etc. but these boys are waaaaay past their sell-by date!

I decided that I would strip the nearside one down too and it was not far behind. So I'm replacing the calipers on both sides. Also going to change the fluid as it looks pretty manky so while I've got it apart I may as well sort that too.

Gotta love Landys

[Discovery 1 front brake issues]

Looks like it's spanners out time again! Out driving today and noticed the Disco pulling badly to the left when I braked. I checked things over when I stopped and smelled that lovely aroma that only comes from hot clutches or brakes, and as it's an auto so ......

The offside disc was bl**dy HOT! The truck also seemd to be 'dragging' when freewheeling which made me suspicious right away. I haven't stripped anything down yet but the least I am going to need will be pads and possibly a disc if it's too thin to get skimmed. Can anyone recommend which piston/seal kit to buy? There are plenty on offer online but I wondered if there are any known 'rogue' ones to avoid.

If the bores are OK then that is the way I will go, but any doubt and I guess it's new caliper time

Thanks guys.

JB

[Tortured Discovery 300 Tdi Back on the Road - Help needed]

Bl**dy 'ell! Thought it was a thumb or finger at first! lol!

[Need a bolt]

She lives!! After nine months off the road, the truck is finally running

If anyone has a flex plate break, DO NOT do it yourself unless you are seriously into pain and torture! I've worked on cars/bikes for most of my life and this has got to have been one of the most awkward jobs I have ever done! I guess it is because everything is so much chukier/heavier than any 'normal' road car and not having a ramp is a real PITA

Still, after all that time without even turning over, she fired up within 10 seconds and runs sweet as a nut! Gotta love the 300TDi

Thanks for the input on here, just got to sort out replacing the front sill body mounts now, then MOT time

[Need a bolt]

Thanks for the input guys. As it turns out, my local main stealer has them in stock and after postage from the online suppliers, LR works out about £5 cheaper! That's the trouble, parts are cheaper online, but unless you are spending £50+ the postage is silly.

Off to pick one up later then fit it tonight, might even have the truck running at last

Thanks again

[Need a bolt]

It's one of the four that fit the flex plate to the TC. They are M10 thread and 15mm long with a flange under the hex part, found these but they are in the US - http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/FS110141MG.cfm

I have plenty of 8.8 M10 bolts which I could use with a plain washer but not sure if they would be OK to use?