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Ragtag

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Posts posted by Ragtag

  1. Just to confirm it is where you suggested, behind the fuse box and possibly on the A post. Viewed from underneath using a mirror and torch. I guess if Landrover tried real hard, they could have made it more difficult to get at............but only slightly!!!

  2. I haven't been on the Forum for a long time but my Wife's Freelander has a problem and she/it are driving me nuts so I'm here seeking help please.

    The car is a 2002 TD4 Manual 5 Door Freelander 1.

    I want to replace the window lift ECU but I'm having some difficulty locating it. The manual suggests it is on the drivers side A Post, somewhere close to the fuse box but this is either a lie or I'm going blind!

    Does anyone know (and more importantly can describe) exactly where it is?

    Suplementary question would be......does anyone know if the ECU is relevant to both front windows or just the drivers widow?

    Thanks in anticipation

  3. The dizzy cap does look a bit suspect, that was the only pattern part, the rest are Lucas, for better or worse :P

    ---

    Hey good news on getting it started and running :D

    Regarding the parts, I was being serious from bitter experience! The coil is not a Lucas one, it is a Paddocks special...manufactured in China. It may or may not last. The leads say lucas on them but the quality is iffy and they break down quickly. I can't see what is in the Britparts bag but I assume points, condensor and rotor arm. The points are ok but it is impossible to get reliable condensors any more (they are only made in China now).

    I know it is some time in the future but when you have achieved your goal of getting the beast back on the road, take a tip from an old hand and go electronic. Best thing I ever did with mine.

    Good luck with the project.

  4. on my insurance i just pay the excess, weather its stone chip repair or replacement, and it dont count as a claim, worth checking your insurance tho as glass cover may or may not be included and if it is the excess due.

    paul

    That sounds good, who are you insured with if you don't mind me asking.

    Every insurer I have been with say it doesn't effect your NCB but sure as hell can effect the renewal premium!!! A windscreen claim is a claim....it costs the insurer money..... so if you change insurer, you are required to disclose it to the new one.

  5. there was one of those vertical slat grilles just sold on ebay for just over £200 :blink:

    What??????????

    That's madness, they're not exactly rare! I bought two at the last Newbury Sortout for a fiver each.

    The ones with circles for additional lights are a bit more pricey...a guy wanted £25 for it but I don't like them so I passed.

    Worlds gone mad :D

  6. Hi Matt,

    Congratulations on your purchase. Regarding picking up spares, accessories and update parts, you could do a lot worse than taking a trailer and a wodge of folding to the next Vintage & 4x4 Sortout in early April at the Newbury Showground. Despite the name it is 90% Landrover based.

  7. Latecomer to this thread, I notice that the Seller has changed the title to '90 V8 Hybrid (Tax Exempt)' so that sorts out the concerns of some on here.....maybe.

    The DVLA '8 point rule' has been around for about 30 years so pre or post SVA is irrelevant. Caveat Emptor

  8. Don't know when they will stop! I have seen the same, my only local LPG (Shell fuel station - 3 miles away) is now 82p a litre. There is no competition around here, so they seem to charge accordingly. I am seriously considering going diesel now.

    Regards, Diff.

    Doesn't the LPG guy in Stubbington sell it any more? He used to be 2p/litre cheaper than the Shell station.

  9. Not sure about engine numbers and stuff like that but broadly, the cut off for fitting the lucas electronic dizzy was 1976. Before no, after yes. However, recently, RPI have started manufacturing a suitable oil pump connector that allows the fitment to pre '76 engines. Its quite pricey for what it is but having said that, going electronic is easily the best mod you can make to an early V8 IMHO.

    Regarding supply of dizzys, there is a guy on ebay called SimonBBC who seems to get good reviews on other V8 Forums.

  10. Sorry, I misunderstood your intention with this project.

    Seems to me that the rear end is still the most work. If you cut 10 inches (or is it 8) off the back end of the chassis, the replacement cross member will not be a straight fit due to the curve of the chassis rails. Also, won't the inner wheel arch need to be moved back or be enlarged to re centralise it with the wheel?

  11. Hi,

    Has anybody mounted a LR 90 body onto a disco or rrc 100" chassis?

    If so, any pictures?

    I assume that the fuel tank would need to be moved, rear end would need cutting down, part of 90 rear cross member etc.

    Obviously the rear arch would need cutting horizontally to the end of the body (similar to some challenge trucks.

    I've tried searching but couldn't find anything (apologies if there's already a thread about it).

    Thanks.

    Have you seen the DVD 'A 4x4 is Born'?

  12. It is running well, although a bit fast at idle, on LPG but very very badly on petrol, also i have had to set the timing very advanced for it to run at all whereas it used to run pretty near TDC.

    I am guessing the bad running has something to do with timing as i did have the dizzy out while priming the oil pump but i think i have put it back correctly, if i use the timing light i can get cylinder 1 to spark bang on TDC by turning the dizzy but the engine will not run, as i said it needs to be very advanced to run.

    My 3.5 is on carbs so it may be different for an efi engine but static timing is 6 degrees BTDC for petrol anyway not TDC. LPG tollerates (indeed thrives on)as much advance as it can get, I run about 20 BTDC but at that level it is a dog on petrol.

    How advanced is your 'very advanced'? I wonder if you have actually got it running more advance than you think due to an incorrect starting position with the dizzy. Either that or Bowie69 is right and a random efi problem has forced itself into the equation just to confuse things.

  13. No. Early hubs won't take alloys

    Whilst this is true in standard form, the modifiation necessary to make them fit is fairly trivial.

    I run Compmotive XS wheels on my '77 Rangie and that has Imperial axles. I don't know if there are early axles and very early axles, mind you.

    When I bought my rangie in the mid '90s, it came with the GKN 3 spoke alloys. I don't remember if the wheels had been modified but they went on and came off with ease. I can say that my half shaft flanges have been ground back to level with the bolt heads although that may or may not be necessary.

    What is necessary (with the Compo's) is to grind off about 1/16th inch of the inside edge of the wheel that is in contact with the mounting flange of the hub. I drew a felt tip line all around and then ground to the line with a Dremmel. It really is about twice the thickness of th paint. Having done this, the wheels fit, no problem.

    Another alternative is to fit the ally wheelspacers sold by Paddocks. These fit both Metric and Imperial hubs but have the later metric mounting flange onthe outer edge.

  14. HI CAN ANYBODY TELL ME THE BIGGEST TYRES THAT WILL FIT ON STANDARD FREELANDER ALLOY WHEEL RIMS 16",AT THE MOMENT IT IS ON 215 x 65 x 16, AND THEY LOOK SMALL,SAY FOR EXAMPLE- WOULD 235 x 70 x 16" FIT ON THESE RIMS AND WOULD THERE BE ENOUGH CLEARENCE ON THE CAR FOR THEM.ANY ADVICE WELCOME.THANK YOU.CALLAN

    By 'biggest' do you mean widest or tallest or a combination?

    as an alternative to the other suggestions, 205/80/16 will fit and look a lot meatier. My misssus has Toyo Open Country M&S on her freebie, in case she encounters some muddy puddles. They also have the advantage of making it almost impossible for her to kerb the alloys :lol:

  15. Battery disconnected and leave it to discharge as said. I took the airbag out of my old one when I changed the dash, just a few bolts into it from underneath IIRC. Don't recall it being a significant problem - the whole dash change took about 4.5 hrs as I remember, a job that seemed big and actually wasn't.

    Ok, so the battery has been disconnected for about a year. That should be long enough!!! I'll take the plunge tomorrow.

    Thanks to all who replied.

    Cheers

    Chris

  16. Ok, so nobody likes a Noobie with loads of questions but I have used Search and this is the last for a while......hopefully.

    Keeping it simple: R380 gearbox (with sender) one end, Speedo at the other end......what is in between, just plain wire link or is there some essential intermediate gizmo that lives under the dash somewhere.

    Reason for question...just want to make sure that I don't scrap the car having left something I'll need later!!!

    Cheers

    Chris

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