Ragtag

Just to confirm it is where you suggested, behind the fuse box and possibly on the A post. Viewed from underneath using a mirror and torch. I guess if Landrover tried real hard, they could have made it more difficult to get at............but only slightly!!!

Thanks very much for the answer. I'll have a look tomorrow as it is too dark now. Cheers Chris

I haven't been on the Forum for a long time but my Wife's Freelander has a problem and she/it are driving me nuts so I'm here seeking help please. The car is a 2002 TD4 Manual 5 Door Freelander 1. I want to replace the window lift ECU but I'm having some difficulty locating it. The manual suggests it is on the drivers side A Post, somewhere close to the fuse box but this is either a lie or I'm going blind! Does anyone know (and more importantly can describe) exactly where it is? Suplementary question would be......does anyone know if the ECU is relevant to both front windows or just the drivers widow? Thanks in anticipation

I too bought the crane mentioned by Si and can't fault it, especially as mine was £135 including delivery. One thing worth noting is that some manufacturers quote the capacity in Tonnes (metric) and some in Tons (Imperial/US)and as everyone knows, Imperial = more!

Hey good news on getting it started and running Regarding the parts, I was being serious from bitter experience! The coil is not a Lucas one, it is a Paddocks special...manufactured in China. It may or may not last. The leads say lucas on them but the quality is iffy and they break down quickly. I can't see what is in the Britparts bag but I assume points, condensor and rotor arm. The points are ok but it is impossible to get reliable condensors any more (they are only made in China now). I know it is some time in the future but when you have achieved your goal of getting the beast back on the road, take a tip from an old hand and go electronic. Best thing I ever did with mine. Good luck with the project.

I've edited that for you. Paddocks/Britparts ignition components are the spawn of satan

That sounds good, who are you insured with if you don't mind me asking. Every insurer I have been with say it doesn't effect your NCB but sure as hell can effect the renewal premium!!! A windscreen claim is a claim....it costs the insurer money..... so if you change insurer, you are required to disclose it to the new one.

What?????????? That's madness, they're not exactly rare! I bought two at the last Newbury Sortout for a fiver each. The ones with circles for additional lights are a bit more pricey...a guy wanted £25 for it but I don't like them so I passed. Worlds gone mad

Yes, apart from a tedious number of screws, ther is a very sticky strip of sealer all the way round!

I resemble that remark

Hi Matt, Congratulations on your purchase. Regarding picking up spares, accessories and update parts, you could do a lot worse than taking a trailer and a wodge of folding to the next Vintage & 4x4 Sortout in early April at the Newbury Showground. Despite the name it is 90% Landrover based.

Latecomer to this thread, I notice that the Seller has changed the title to '90 V8 Hybrid (Tax Exempt)' so that sorts out the concerns of some on here.....maybe. The DVLA '8 point rule' has been around for about 30 years so pre or post SVA is irrelevant. Caveat Emptor

Doesn't the LPG guy in Stubbington sell it any more? He used to be 2p/litre cheaper than the Shell station.

For the sake of completeness, it is not illegal to use a second hand chassis for a rebuild. However the use of a second hand chassis requires the vehicle to undergo an IVA and be registered on a 'Q'plate.

Not sure about engine numbers and stuff like that but broadly, the cut off for fitting the lucas electronic dizzy was 1976. Before no, after yes. However, recently, RPI have started manufacturing a suitable oil pump connector that allows the fitment to pre '76 engines. Its quite pricey for what it is but having said that, going electronic is easily the best mod you can make to an early V8 IMHO. Regarding supply of dizzys, there is a guy on ebay called SimonBBC who seems to get good reviews on other V8 Forums.

Sorry, I misunderstood your intention with this project. Seems to me that the rear end is still the most work. If you cut 10 inches (or is it 8) off the back end of the chassis, the replacement cross member will not be a straight fit due to the curve of the chassis rails. Also, won't the inner wheel arch need to be moved back or be enlarged to re centralise it with the wheel?

Have you seen the DVD 'A 4x4 is Born'?

My 3.5 is on carbs so it may be different for an efi engine but static timing is 6 degrees BTDC for petrol anyway not TDC. LPG tollerates (indeed thrives on)as much advance as it can get, I run about 20 BTDC but at that level it is a dog on petrol. How advanced is your 'very advanced'? I wonder if you have actually got it running more advance than you think due to an incorrect starting position with the dizzy. Either that or Bowie69 is right and a random efi problem has forced itself into the equation just to confuse things.

Whilst this is true in standard form, the modifiation necessary to make them fit is fairly trivial. I run Compmotive XS wheels on my '77 Rangie and that has Imperial axles. I don't know if there are early axles and very early axles, mind you. When I bought my rangie in the mid '90s, it came with the GKN 3 spoke alloys. I don't remember if the wheels had been modified but they went on and came off with ease. I can say that my half shaft flanges have been ground back to level with the bolt heads although that may or may not be necessary. What is necessary (with the Compo's) is to grind off about 1/16th inch of the inside edge of the wheel that is in contact with the mounting flange of the hub. I drew a felt tip line all around and then ground to the line with a Dremmel. It really is about twice the thickness of th paint. Having done this, the wheels fit, no problem. Another alternative is to fit the ally wheelspacers sold by Paddocks. These fit both Metric and Imperial hubs but have the later metric mounting flange onthe outer edge.

By 'biggest' do you mean widest or tallest or a combination? as an alternative to the other suggestions, 205/80/16 will fit and look a lot meatier. My misssus has Toyo Open Country M&S on her freebie, in case she encounters some muddy puddles. They also have the advantage of making it almost impossible for her to kerb the alloys

Thanks Neil,

Thanks Neil, As always, a picture is worth a thousand words! Cheers Chris

Ok, so the battery has been disconnected for about a year. That should be long enough!!! I'll take the plunge tomorrow. Thanks to all who replied. Cheers Chris

Thanks for the info. So the signal wire goes, uninterrupted, to the speedo. Cheers Chris

Ok, so nobody likes a Noobie with loads of questions but I have used Search and this is the last for a while......hopefully. Keeping it simple: R380 gearbox (with sender) one end, Speedo at the other end......what is in between, just plain wire link or is there some essential intermediate gizmo that lives under the dash somewhere. Reason for question...just want to make sure that I don't scrap the car having left something I'll need later!!! Cheers Chris