martinhollings
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Posts posted by martinhollings
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on the way to the retest rev the nuts of it when you get there take the air filter out and make sure the EGR system has been blanked off
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like he says it already has a lt230 transfer box so you are swoping like for like but make sure its from a discovery not a defender as the gearing is different also there is no hi/lo switch on the tdi ones and the HDC will need this to work
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is it not because you a fitting a different CC engine if you were only changing the engine number all would be ok but i because you are changing the cc they want i checking out but i have only no this hapen when it changes the tax class
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you will need to remove the hub assembly use good quality (genuine) bushes and they should last along time and they should only be changed 3 times before the axle is scrap
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got one of these to do mine last year an worked well used some socketts and and bits of scrap for some spacers http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ball-Joint-Service-Remover-Separator-4x4-Adaptors-NEW_W0QQitemZ250515820882QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_3?hash=item3a53e81152
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this link shows how to fit the cable (ashcroft) type kit and the wiring mods for both kits http://www.discovery2.co.uk/diff_lock.html
this shows how to fit the tdi kit http://www.discovery2.co.uk/D1_to_D2_cdl.html but if yo fit the high low selector of a tdi box no linkage mods are needed and fit a tdi rubber cover to the transmission tunnel for better sound proofing
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i have fitted tdi linkage to my td5 very easy and works well the hard bit is finding the bits to do it i had a 300tdi gearbox and transfer box (was going to convert them to fit my 90 but still only payed £130) so took the lincage off them but you will need the rubber cover off a tdi to go on the transmission tunnel
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sounds like they need changing i had to do 4 when i got my disco at around £60 each a haynes manual will help when doing this job as it does mean striping most of the door to get to them 1 top tip is make sure the locks and door handles work before refitting the glass and frame as there are adjustments that can be made what can happen is you can close the door and it wont open again if these adjustmens are wrong and can be a big PIA trying to get the seats out to get the door cards off
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defo no you will need to program the keys and the imobilser sync the speedo and set the EAK code
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I am with Adrian Flux too and when the 90 was nicked the first offer was not too good so I sent them the WHOLE file full of every reciept I had and got the full insured value in the end. That said I think I should have kept more photo's of the work as it was being done and increased the sum insured to reflect the real value but hind-sight is a wonderful thing!!!
that is the same as me when my 90 whent for a midnight drive with out me adrian flux were ok got the full insured value in the end and only 2 phone calls still with them and very good to deal with being a forum member will get you a 10% discount to
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your tyres are past the wheel arches thats a big no no
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engine out is the a bit easyer but not enough if you need a regas at the end on a 300 you can move the engine forword enought if you take the rad out (but dont no about the air con) but would still do the belt in the car
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only major if the bearing has gone but its just a simple job if its just the flange just remove the prop undo the bolt and swop them over with a new seal
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i fitted it to a disco with no problems but i have found this kit while trying to comfirm the part numbers that is a better price (with the same part number and look like the same kit)
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/timing-belt-modified-stc4096l-p-2345.html
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no i have done it on my 90 you will need to remove the center consol and ajust the lincage but an easy fix
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fitted this kit the last one i did (no britpart stuff)
http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/shop/lrps/en/browse/Search+Results/none/0/0/0/0/100295
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You will need a Testbook/IDS or similar. I don't know which of the toy computers will do it, I suspect a Nanocom won't, but the more advanced ones like Autologic almost certainly do, no experience of any of them.
yes nanocom will i have done it you need to reprogram the key codes the emergency acess code the speedo milage and then you need learn security settings for the engine ecu and i bet there is some thing ive missed
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i have been with AF for 4 years got my 90 nicked last year and got a 100% pay out with only 3 phone calls and ok to speek to and just renewed this month ad still over £100 cheaper than the next best
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rember there is no key way on the shaft so when you remove the pully you need to no where to put it back on (guess how i found that out) but the key way no the pully had left a mark on the shaft so got away with it
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engine/gearbox mountings can cause vibrations the engine mountings can drop meaning metal to metal contact
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its not uncommon for core plugs to fail and i would say there is not mutch hope of changing it with out removing the engine maby you could get to it if you removed the head but never tryed and cannot rember how mutch room there is the the head removed
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one of these http://www.devon4x4.com/products_b/p543c190/nanocom-diagnostics-tool.html?showicons=no
have a look here also to see if there is any one local http://www.nanocom-locator.co.uk/
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where are you if there is some one local who has a nanocom then they might help
Pillar drill. New or old?
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Personally i would go old...
we have an old herbert drill at work great for holes upto 3/4 inch with a twist drill bit but i have drilled 3 inch holes with a core bit... Cost around £300 with loads of taper drill bits. It is 3 phase but converting it to single would not be the end of the world...