Tex Gore

Hey folks, I've had a search around and didn't find anything other than VERY in-depth articles covering an entire rebuild, so here's the question and apologies if I missed something. I've had a 200TDi dry stored for some years now, ready to drop into my modified Series 3 (already has disc brakes at the front and is on coils). I will give it a total rebuild if I have to, but now do I check? The engine turns over Ok when I crank it with a wrench, and it's been rebuilt I think at some point in its life as it has a rebuilders plate on it. It was cheap, but I never saw it in the vehicle before I bought it - even though I got it from a reputable source. So would there be a list of checks to perform that would at least indicate whether more was required whilst it's out and on the engine stand? Thanks in advance!

Seems he's stuck the plate over the engine number then. Cheers guys.

Hey everyone, My understanding is that all 200TDI engine numbers begin 11L, 12L or 13L (or in the case of one post I saw 14L). Mine however appears to begin RN. This is on a silver plate located beneath number 1 injector which I believe is the right location for the engine number - RN 00782A Can anyone shed any light on this? It's definitely a 200TDI (two belts), and is a Disco one (low turbo). Thanks in advance!

Good day, Can anyone offer any tips and tricks for making a 17H 2.5 Petrol engine more resilient to water? Mine shudders to a halt at the very hint of a deep puddle, despite my having already: Put a rubber glove over the dizzy (HT leads through the fingers, ty-wraps on the lot) Applied grease to the HT leads at the block end (although this just melted off in about 3 seconds) Checked all connections are secure/covered Added a snorkel which all appears watertight Nonetheless she continues to give up when the water is anything over 3/4 of a foot or so... I guess I could splat a hosepipe around the engine bay to see what in particular is causing the issue but knowing my luck it would find a way to catch fire somehow so thought I'd ask the question first. Thanks in advance, RP

Can anyone recommend somewhere who can fabricate me a fuel tank for my Disco bobtail? I want to mount the tank on the back in a secure frame, so it doesn't need to be anything flash - just an oblong type shape, and I don't care what it's made from. It's for diesel incidentally. Thanks in advance, TG

As in can I physically push it upwards? Can that bearing be replaced with the IRD in situe?

The plot thickens... The car appears fine now - almost. Taking it off the recovery lorry there none of the cracking noise when it went on. I removed the IRD drain plug and there was a little swarf on it - about 1mm, but there was also barely any oil. There did not appear to be any on the outside of the IRD or under the vehicle. So, wondering what on earth was going on I filled the IRD with the correct oil and gave it a run. Although I thought I could hear a slight rattle, the car otherwise ran fine - bizarre. But - having got home it has one hell of an oil leak. It was all over the rear of the IRD, the sub-frame and anti-roll bar, and I also noticed swarf in the oil where it has sprayed onto the underside of the car too. The fill and drain plugs on the IRD are tight, so I cannot see where it's coming from - but it's prolific (I could see a spotty trail right down the road where I drove). Any thoughts on what might have gone wrong, why it appears to have practically recovered other than this 'old faithful' leak? Thanks again

Thanks Garry - presumably you had to blank off the output from the IRD?

Aye up, So heading up the M6 I got a dreadful screeching sound, and before I had too much time to do anything a crack and lots of what can only be described as stuttering from the ride. I got onto the hard shoulder and then got a very strong smell of oil - of the gearboxy kind. The engine is still running fine; there was no smoke and so on, but when the recovery guy tried to drive it onto the wagon (despite my asking him to winch it) there was a loud cracking sound every 1/8th turn of the wheels or so. He only then advised me that 'the diff had gone'. There is also oil dripping from the offside under the engine, in the vicinity of the IRD (though I haven't had the tray off). So I did some research, and the trustworthy internet suggested that the primary cause of IRD failure is an unhappy VCU. I'm told the vehicle did not have the same tyres on each corner, and I have no idea how long it was run like that before being replaced with 4 new ones. The vehicle has done 67k. However, when I contacted my local LR specialist, he said that the idea of the VCUs going wrong was a myth, and 'they had never replaced one yet'. This concerns me as I don't want to spend (what is going to be) a load of cash on an IRD only to have it fail again. That said, I don't want to get a VCU if I don't have to. Prior to failure, I did hear a whining/ringing sort of noise as certain speeds (typically 40-50) but it was intermittent. I don't use the car often. I did try reversing in full lock and couldn't hear/feel anything odd. What's more there was no uneven tyre wear. The car had not been serviced for some time however which makes me wonder when the IRD last had oil.... Any thoughts? - Can the VCU be easily tested? - Do IRDs fail when the VCU is healthy? I worked with a friend a few years back on swapping an IRD and (for some reason) it was hell and took us ages. That was on a manual - this is an auto. Is the auto easier/harder? It's a 2004 TD4. Thanks in advance, TG

Here are the pics of the servo. Click on them for a bigger image.

No exactly mate, it was probably an addition during the '97 rebuild... Good point - will get a pic tomorrow...

Makes sense - how do I fix that?

Aye up, Now the brake servo appears to have failed. The 88 has been standing for a while, and when I took it out today the pedal had nothing until about halfway, then very 'flat' and hard with limited braking - unless I stood on it like an elephant on an egg. Starting the vehicle with my foot on the brake produced no movement in the pedal whatsoever. I removed the vacuum pipe and there was what felt like decent suction...pipe stuck to my finger. With it off the car stalls, with it on the car runs fine with no loss of power. The problem is she is something of a hybrid - built in 1975 but then rebuilt in 1997 using some 90 parts. How can I tell which servo I have, such that I can get the correct repair kit (or indeed replacement servo)? Thanks TG

I do have a steam cleaner?

My alternator has decided to do everything other than charge, however it's covered in mud. I will check the connections, but I understand that alternators object to being covered in mud. What's the safest way to clean it? My friend washed and drenched his in WD40, but it caught fire....I'd rather that didn't happen to mine really. Thanks in advance, TG

It has a concentric slave cylinder - no fork. We replaced the slave cylinder when we did the clutch.

A very kind gentleman has loaned me a transmission jack. Day one went well, anyway.

The above sums it up perfectly Mr Farmer. I recently did the Pyrenees in a Series 3, and with the doortops off I felt entirely 'part of it'. Meanwhile in the sterile environment of my mate's D2, things were somewhat different. I think I'll stick with a largely original vehicle - just put the 200Tdi in. Thanks all

Hi, I think the clutch might be going on my 2005 TD4 but sincerely hoping someone can suggest something else. Symptoms are: Engine 'races' whilst on the move if I put foot down - over about 2000 revs the rev counter just flies around the dial Do the above for more than a couple of seconds and there's a nasty clutch smell Not pulling away cleanly, although it is drivable by building up speed slowly and keeping out of power-band territory Apply handbrake and try and pull away in 2nd/3rd and it does strain against the brake then stall It goes in and out of gear fine Have tried pumping the clutch/letting it come back up hard in case there was some stickiness going on to no avail. Is this the clutch then, or could there be easier things to check? Anyone done an FL1 clutch - what's it like to do?

Why on earth didn't I know that! I'll take a look. It did seem to be working much better when I was using gasless wire...although I was using a touch of gas with it to try and counteract the wind outside..

It is a gas/gasless Mig - but no polarity switch

Hmm, might give that a go. If Cosmos are that bad, what brands are worth considering. I don't tend to use the welder often, but when I do it's for relatively extensive stuff.... I guess Clarke are worth considering, what other brands give good, reliable performance for the occasional user?

Hmm - there is no way of reversing the polarity that I know of? As for kinks - you could be right Boro. It does seem to be struggling to get the wire out smoothly. Oh well, a new welder is well beyond my means at present. Guess project rotten Disco will have to go on hold. Cheers

The problems continue. My welder isn't behaving itself. It's a Cosmo 200. Whilst trying to weld two pieces of 5mm together (into a T shape) I am not getting any penetration; only big blobs that I can twist off with pliers. I've tried all power settings, I've tried varying the gas output, a new tip, and wire speed - nothing seems to work. It's supposed to weld up to 6mm, but with the maximum setting and the wire speed set to auto it just chucks more spatters about and still doesn't penetrate. The metal is clean, as is the welder earth clamp. I've got the torch at the right distance and angle (I did an evening class, would you believe). Has my welder gone wrong, and is there a way I can test it? TG

Can anyone give me an idea of the distance from the side bodymount chassis bracket and the body directly above it? I'm having to fit a new bodymount, and even with the body jacked up I suspect it's too low still as I can't get the mount in - but then that might also be due to a rail that's been welded in to support the rollcage. So knowing the distance will clear things up nicely. Thanks in advance TG