Frax
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Posts posted by Frax
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Thanks for all the info Western.
I decided to do the swivels as well and ordered the parts for that as well, sadly quite a few bits in the kit did not fit, top swivel pin = my one is larger and has no bearing just a fibre washer, the ball has also no space for the bearing to fit in ?, back plate also was different but the large seal was OK.
Seals and bottom bearing were OK though and the job is now done.
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Thanks for all the info Western
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Thank you
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Hi I need to order a front wheel bearing, easy I know but will it make any difference if I have a 24 spline or 10 spline shaft.
It is a 1995 but has one axial from a 200tdi.
Want to sure before I place the order - are the 200 tdi and 300tdi wheel bearings the same.
Thank you
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Buy a ctek charger, they are supposed to recondition a battery and are a great bit of kit.
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POR15 is good stuff - I used it on my front and back bumper + rock sliders and still good after 5 years.
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I had my one powder coated 5 years ago on top of the galvie and so far all is well although had quite a mat look to it.
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Think I will fit a second Anderson connector as I have one here
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Well I could fit another isolator and connect them together but my seat box already has two fitted, one kills all power and the other kills the winch + I have an Anderson plug also fitted to the outside of the seat box.
I did think of fitting a second Anderson connector which would do the same I suppose.
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I had a problem this morning with my battery (flat) I have two battery’s fitted with an X-Charge relay.
The first battery is used to start the Defender, the second is used to power my winch and is fitted with an Anderson connector to the outside of the seat box. I have a set of jump leads fitted with an Anderson connector so I can also use the second battery for jump starting anyone if required.
When I start the car the charge goes to the first battery first but as the alternator output hits 14v the power starts to charge the second battery through the charge relay.
Thought this was all a good idea when I fitted it.
I have Recaro seats so not that easy to remove.
Now as said today my starting battery was flat – I could not jump start the car with the Anderson jump leads as they only take and give power from the second battery.
1 hour late for work and I was now driving a single seater
How would you think the best was to wire the battery’s and what are the best leisure battery’s to fit within the seat box.
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Wecome Paul
Drive it and have fun - lods of info on here if you need it and lots of great people who always help with any problems.
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Watch what you spend, it's very easy to get carried away.
Do what is needing done though while the body if lifted, it's a hell of a lot easier.
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Yip you have found it, it's one of you brake calipers pistons sticking, we get there in the end, has to be that.
Well I would say so.
It will be the piston on your lob sided pad, where the pad is at it thickest point.
Remove the wheel and try and force all the Pistons in all the way, keep a close eye on them and get someone to push the brake peddle. You should see them come out and probably have the noise as they do.
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I would do your oil change and run it for 50 - 100 miles and then change the oil again just to see how bad it is.
Also this would help give the box a good clean out.
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I bought a adjustable which can be greased in the hope it would last better, still good after 5 year and I have only adjusted it once and I do not think it really needed it but just gave it a nudge to be sure.
Its a bit of a pain to do so just thought I would try the adjustable type.
They are a right pain to check with the weight on the truck as well, they can look tight but still have play when you lift the back end but lift to far and you still have the weight of the wheels pulling the ball joint tight.
If unsure change it
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I used fatmat all over my bulkhead 5 year ago + the seat box and under the floor plates.
Even under the foot plates and open to the weather it has still been great, as said its not the thickness that makes the difference it's the density.
Fatmat wins every time for me.
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I have never seen the pin holes enlarge, usually rust in if not greased so they should be OK.
Drums on the back could also be the problem, I have seen lot is pads part from the metal backing plate on shoes, however these usually make the brakes stick on.
Try you A frame first Reb
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Could be the back pads moving in the calipers, seen it before when there is slight play in the slides.
Or it could be the A frame ball joint or bushes.
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I fitted Scooby boot Rams to mine and the work great,
Subaru hatch back, one at each side, got them off an old scrap car and just made some brackets to fit on the wing lip.
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Yes you can and I did double a lot of mine up when I rebuilt, you just need to be sure you are connecting the right point to earth especially at the back of the instrument cluster.
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As said I would start with the Earth cables or points, they may be corroded, try cleaning them up.
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Find a freind or mate of a mate to weld it for now, ask about lots of people weld even though not for work.
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As said above, if you are planning to keep the car galvy it and it will last, plating it will only last for a short while.
It will also rust from the inside out so there is a lot you wont see till it holes through, if you galvy it will also make it a lot more valuable when you do decide to sell.
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Whatever paint you get it will be mixed at some point so should not matter, just get a good quality etch primer to make sure that the top coat sticks.
Its all in the prep work.
300tdi wheel bearing
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Well nothing new about that for me Ian, at least the parts I needed were the same and fitted.
Thank you