Frax
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Posts posted by Frax
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They are cold
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Scottish Green Road Club outring 7th February
If anyone wants to try some very gentle offroading (your car will get dirty but shouldnn't get damaged) then the SGRC has a monthly run on 7th Feb on private Waterboard and Scottish Hydro tracks and private shooting estate lanes just off the the back of the Rest and Be Thankful at Butterbridge next Sunday. Start is from the big layby just passed the sweepig bend coming off the west side of the Rest and enter the long long straight heading toward Inveraray, you won't miss it because of all the Land Rovers parked up waiting to start! This is not the car park at the summit of the Rest but about 4 miles on, along the road after you have descended the back of the Rest. Details of joining the club (£20 for lifetime membership) and where to meet up are on the website at www.scotgrc.co.uk You can print out a membership application form from the site and take it along on the day and only Land Rover products can be taken on the run. This run is suitable for every sort of LR from a Freelander1 through to tricked up Defenders via D3's and D4's RRS's and FFRR's even Evoques can handle 95% of the runs the SGRC hosts. Generally no special tyres or equipment is needed, just a camera, warm and waterproof clothes and knowledge of what your TR and suspension can do in the rough. Unfortunately I cannot make it to this as work gets in the way. Also dogs under control are also welcome on most of the runs.
Thought this might be of interest to some, found on the RRS forum
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Hi again - the Fatmat I used was only about 1.3mm thick, I would think that any thicker would be a right pain to fit.
I would think 20sq ft would be more than enough to do the bulkhead and you should have some left over.
It is easy to cut and bend when warm.
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I don’t know what to say – sad sad day and I would say a bad decision by Land Rover.
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I got it from the bay when I did my rebuild 5 years ago, its good stuff - just cut to size and warm with a hair drier and stick on.
I covered the bulkhead + foot wells & seat box and the under side of the foot plates.
After 5 years the stuff is still stuck tight even to the underside of the foot plates which is open to the weather.
I also fitted it to the inside of the doors behind the door cards, it does help cut down rattles and is also a good insulator.
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Covered my new bulkhead with fatmat, good stuff and easy to apply.
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Here is my one behind the bulkhead, hole drilled in bulkhead and vent fitted to other side
Here is the other side with vent
Cover fitted over heater
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You need to get hold of a metal detector or large magnet, I hate them clips they always make a dash for it.
When I fit them and "C" clips I try to cover them with a rag so they don't ping.
They are a pain in the rear end.
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Looks like you have had quite a bit of heat there, good to see you found it though
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It's a great tool for learning how to do things, Welcome
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Remove the brake calliper and leave the brake pipe connected.
Flip it over so you can see the pads.
Place a spanner or something between the pads that is about the same width as the brake disc, if you do not do this there is a danger that the pistons will fall out.
Get someone to push the brake pedal and watch the brake pistons come out as pressure is applied to the pedal, they should come out even and smooth.
You should be able to see if a piston is sticking at this point.
As for the pads they should be the same width at both sides – if not I would replace them.
Also check that the pads are dry as the pistons may be leaking fluid.
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The main wiring harness plugs are at the left of the gearbox or drivers side on the bulkhead, these will cover your glow plug. These is also an earth wire on the same area. it about 10" from the bottom of bulkhead so low down.
Does the starter turn ? if not check that there is 12v on the signal wire to the solonoid on the starter when you turn the key (its the small wire) also check that there is 12v on the heavy wire at the same place.
Good luck
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This is what you need http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Lover-Defender-Discovery-1-RRc-200-300-tdi-wading-plugs-x-2-gwynlewis4x4-/171335370962?hash=item27e46248d2:m:moDYw_u-hGNmlnReA6h5C0w
Only fit when planning on wading though which it looks like you could be doing quite a bit by the weather forcast.
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Timken bearing are good, I used them on my Defender when I rebuilt it 5 year ago and they are still in good condition with no play.
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Check to see if there is power leaving the relay,
You should also have a thing (can't remember its name) inside the passengers side wing that does the dim dip as per pic.
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Fuel at the injectors does not mean it will run - the fuel need to have enough pressure to crack your injectors.
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Wish I could go back to the 70s Mo - the world was a far better place then
Sorry Tommo. Back to topic:
If you run a flat blade screw driver along the felt you should feel the screw heads.
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Sorry boys a wedge up here is a load of cash / money
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Wish I had a wedge
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Welcome to the forum, ye might be lucky, I think it a small philips driver you need, the channel bracket inside the door tend to rust off which lets the top of the window wobble about.
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Yes the channel has to be removed, it is held in place by some small screws, if you start at the front you will only need to take out about three screws on the window part but you will need to take the door panel off to get to the others - think another 2.
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How far are you going to go, keep a cool head as you can get caught up in the build and yer pocket money will go very fast.
It is a great thing to do though and you will get to know every nut and bolt.
Have fun
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Thanks for the info boys - will have a look tonight
Exhaust Silencer has rusted again
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Get a hammer and some release oil for the bolts and joints and some exhaust past for fitting the new one.
Twist, rattle and shake the old one to get it to come off