[Ignition Timing]

On 4/24/2007 at 9:11 AM, Tonk said:

timing is not set at maximum advance, it will pink and melt something, at idle with the vacuum advance disconnected is where you should set your timing, it should be something around 6 degrees before tdc. i'm not sure how many degrees but 6 is way close

Series 3 with 3 finger pointer on the engine....From the left to right as you stand  in front looking at the engine.......6 degrees before, 3 degrees before and TDC..............

set the mark on the crank pulley to the left market on the engine which is 6 degrees before TDC.

Hope this is of some help .

[David Beaumont 4x4 gearbox specialists]

On 3/9/2016 at 4:27 PM, steve200TDi said:

Hi,

As some of you may now, I'm in the market for a new Transfer box.

I've been looking at Ashcrofts, but they seem rather expensive, so I was wondering if anyone has had experience with David Beaumont gearboxes.

Their website suggests that they are a long established company and know what they are doing/talking about.

I've also seem Bristol Transmissions - any one used them?

And has anyone had experience with any other companies that provided good service when it comes to transfer boxes!

Thanks

Steve

Nothing wrong with a gearbox from Dave Beaumont, just fitted one in my 109"

If anyone knows how to put them together it's Dave and his Team!

Hope that helps!

[viscous fan pulley bearing]

Hi , my 300TDI fan pulley bearing is noisy / rough when spun. Having had the timing cover off to change the timing belt i noticed there was a plastic cap where the bearing is situated in the cover . Has anyone changed the bearing sucessfully ?

I dont fancy buying a comlete new cover , needless to say the haynes manual is very quiet on the subject .

cheers Mike

I know its a bit late in the day but her is the answer for the future The bearing number that will fit all be it a fraction longer than the original is JD9448 and costs £19.38p.... It's a John Deere Tractor water pump bearing.The extra length ( It's only a few mm ) can be lost in the inside of the housing where there is a recess........... it will need to be trimmed with a 1mm cutting disc at both ends, but just hold the cutter steady and don't press hard let the disc cut slowly and you'll be fine, I've done loads with a 4" grinder and a 1mm cutting disc.

here's where to get if from .............http://www.nytractorparts.co.uk/.............. 01673 828883................ Ask for James, he'll order you one and post it out to you. The bearing Dia is 1.5" or 38.10mm the barrel length is about 50 to 52mm ( 3 to 5 mm longer than the original) the spindle dia that you need is 0.626" ( 15.91mm) and needs trimming to 27mm longer than the end of the barrel The other end also has a spindle but that just needs cutting off as close to the barrel as possible, I usually manage 2 to 3mm without any trouble.

Hope this helps. So there you guys have it, I've given you a trade secret away, how good is that!............Don't ever say that the bearing can't be replaced and you have to buy a new front timing cover.. You Don't

Kind Regards to anyone reading this.

[viscous fan pulley bearing]

What is this unobtainium you speak of ? and where can i find some

So does anyone have a straight answer ?

Cheers Mike

Hi Mikey D, I know its a bit late in the day but her is the answer for the future

The bearing number that will fit all be it a fraction longer than the original is JD9448 and costs £19.38p.... It's a John Deere Tractor water pump bearing.The extra length ( It's only a few mm ) can be lost in the inside of the housing where there is a recess........... it will need to be trimmed with a 1mm cutting disc at both ends, but just hold the cutter steady and don't press hard let the disc cut slowly and you'll be fine, I've done loads with a 4" grinder and a 1mm cutting disc.

here's where to get if from .............http://www.nytractorparts.co.uk/.............. 01673 828883................ Ask for James, he'll order you one and post it out to you. The bearing Dia is 1.5" or 38.10mm the barrel length is about 50 to 52mm ( 3 to 5 mm longer than the original) the spindle dia that you need is 0.626" ( 15.91mm) and needs trimming to 27mm longer than the end of the barrel The other end also has a spindle but that just needs cutting off as close to the barrel as possible, I usually manage 2 to 3mm without any trouble.

Hope this helps. So there you guys have it, I've given you a trade secret away, how good is that!............Don't ever say that the bearing can't be replaced and you have to buy a new front timing cover.. You Don't

Kind Regards to anyone reading this.

[Which A frame ball joint]

Gwyn Lewis A frame ball joints are just standard ones , drilled and a grease nipple fitted. How do I know.!

I rang him up and asked if they were they specially made for him and he said NO, just standard and he drills them and fits a grease nipple.

MY advice ( Buy a standard one, drill it thread it and fit your own grease nipple) Simples

[300tdi timing belt done, but oil leaking]

use the crank pully to push the seal in

Turn it round the wrong way and use the flat face to push the seal into the casing. I use a spacer of sorts and the crank nut to wind it in and it goes in square every time. I only push it intill its level with the casing, if you push it in too far then the lip of the seal might not make a good contact

[Track Rod Ends - Guidance appreciated!]

All the parts are all about the same quality nowadays

Made by one maufacturer and bought by the 3 major suppliers ( Britpart, Bearmach, Allmakes,) and boxed up acordingly

Paddocks service is quite good now and the quality controll has improved. Just purchased a lower crank gear for disco 1 and the quality was good, This one had machined sides, a lot better than the spot welded washer that was on the original.

Oh! and their parabolic Springs for the series vehicles are now better quality and made by British Spring so no longer cheap nasty %%%p.

[Somebody please help.......]

Steering damper

[300TDI Viscous Fan Bearing]

Try one of these solutions from this Australian site My link

link wont work for me

By the time you pay postage from OZ you might as well buy british!

[300 tdi timing belt Tension]

Yer I knew about the special tool just seems strange the guide shows a way of cracking the bolt off without having to use the tool but there isnt a way of doing it up without it

By the time I buy the tool and a 3/4 knuckle bar and socket I might as well get someone else to do it lol.

Oh well, thanks for the reply.

Believe me there is no safe way of doing it up.

If you have the radiator out and you have plenty of room then you could use a 1/2" air impact wrench which might take it up to 100lb/ft

3/4 wil obviously take it up a bit more.

The danger is that the front pully nuts have a tendancy to work loose unless ther are torqued to the right setting / if you are anywhere near my location give me a shout and you can borrow holding spanner.

Put it into a garage and expect a bil for £400 + and then you might get some little git that forgot to tighten something

Thats why I do all my own work.....You know what they say ( if you want a job doing right do it yourself)

[300 tdi timing belt Tension]

Slight hijack but on the same topic. On thats same thread it gives a method to undo the crank bolt without the special tool but on doing it up it just states the torque. How do you do it up so tight without locking the flywheel? Is it safe to put it in gear and allow the torque to go through the box?

Don't try locking the flywheel from underneath with a piece of round bar or 9mm drill bit or anything else as it will just bend or break under the strain.

If you put it in gear and have someone in the vehicle with the brakes on it will probably slip the clutch plate when you tighten the nut up.

You need to hold the front pully with a special tool, ( pictured thats if it worked) then tighten the 27mm nut up with 1/2 " totque wrench to 60lb/ft ( 80mn) then change to 3/4 drive socket set , place socket on the bolt , mark it with tipex or paint at 9 o'clock on the clock face and then tighten it up till the tipex mark comes round to 12 o'clock.....I just did one today and you may need a 5 or 6ft bit of thick wall round tubing to give that bit of extra leverage...It workes for me.

hope this helps ........Splut.

[300 tdi timing belt Tension]

The figure in the Haynes Manual is 15Nm and I have always worked to that without any issues.

You can stop the 'walking' of the belt off of the crank gear by buying one of the later type that has a retainer ring around the outside...

I have done mine and 2 others using this method and no complaints so far...

I thought I'd read somewhere it was 11 NM so if you say it's 15NM it's not that much more (8 lb/ft to 11 lb/ft) certainly not as much as 21NM (15.5 lb/ft)

I've just done mine and set the belt at 10lb/ft and the crank gear has the later type retaining ring on the outside so it should be OK.

Thanks for the confirmation.

Next job might be a new clutch plate as she's got a slight rattle on start up, but OK it the clutch is depressed, will need to decide either engine out or gearbox out

probably engine out as I've only 2 hands and a good gantry and chain hoist.

Regards Splut

[300 tdi timing belt Tension]

I read a thread under Land Rover Technical Archive 300TDI cambelt kit and very good it was too with very good pictures.

One thing bothered me a bit was the torque setting of the cambelt as described in the artical " tension the belt at 21.77 Nm "

Quote (Timing belts are not at all like fan belts, they don't need to be stretched any more than is sufficient to prevent them vibrating or coming off the sprockets. A belt that is too tight will howl and fail prematurely, a belt that's too slack is going to vibrate and either fail prematurely or come off one of the sprockets) AND QUITE CORRECT but correct me if I'm wrong but was the quoted torque to be applied to the tensioning bracket not originally quoted by Land Rover to be 15NM.

Then in a later Land Rover service bulletin amended this tension to a new lower figure of 11NM.

I might be the one who's wrong but would someone check as a belt that's too tight will not only howl but will probably try to walk.

We can all make mistakes and if it's me thats wrong well I apologise in advance.

Regards Splut