ToyRoverlander
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Posts posted by ToyRoverlander
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Nope. But it's lifted a fair bit, it sits sprung over on LandCruiser 80series axles, Clearance is not a problem.
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I've been running 315's on 7J rims for 5 years now, daily driven. So your size is not a problem at all.
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Excellent choice! I've also got a 3B in mine, with turbo and intercooler. Pump turned right up. Totally different engine, heaps of power and lots of off idle torque.
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I'm not sure it actually mattera where the sliding joint is located. I've got a high angle front shaft with 180mm slider, which sits at the diff end. Been like that for about 8years now without problems. The rear shaft is a DC unit, slider near the diff. No issues at all.
When the u joints don't bind and the flanges are parallel it's all good. If not a solution must be found.
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Everything is possible. Quite a large engine though. I hope you want to fit the rest of the cruiser drivetrain as well, as the Rover stuff might not live long.
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This is what I did... 25cm long spring perches. From what I read on US forums these seem to help to combat springwrap. Front axle shown but obviously the rear has the same. At the rear, the chevy 63" springs, have a rather thick short overload leaf. I think these things combined help prevent springwrap on mine, despite 400nm torque through a 80:1 reduction in 1low and 35" tires I haven't seen the axle moving noticeably.
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What Nick says.
And FYI, even if the bendix seems to function as intended when you feel it by hand, it might still be defective. Often the feel fine but when torque is applied (bendix graps the flywheel, starter turns), it is sufficient to break through the one-way clutch of the bendix. Only way to find out if it still works is on a test bench where it's setup in such a way that the bendix can actually engage a sort of flywheel that can be loaded up. Or on the vehicle, when you know the rest of the starter is fine and you can hear it run but it just doesn't turn over the engine.A way to test the solenoid is as follows. Take it of the starter, put the plunger back in it, without the spring. Hold the solenoid in your hand and push the plunger slowly against something sturdy. You'll feel the plunger hits something spring loaded. If you can push it further still, about a mm or so. The solenoid is still fine. If you cant push it any further, or you can't even feel the spring loaded bit, it's worn out. Bosch solenoids tend to have a long life though.
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You can get to to the brushes easily by undoing the long through bolts and undoing the 2 little screws and the endcap. Those always come loose. The 3 screws that hold the solenoid on are the ones that are always very tight. An impact driver is the answer here. Not something most people carry in their toolbox.
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A better idea would be to open it up and clean the brushes and collector with a bit of sandingpaper. Luckily those bosch starters are so easy to work on..
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On 14-9-2016 at 10:59 AM, Snagger said:
I would just use a big can of WD40 with the straw to thoroughly wash the insides out, drain it out, throw it back together and test it. It's quite likely that the dust and dirt was either preventing electrical contact or shorting the brushes and commutator, and removing it would sort out either problem. As long as there is enough material left for the brushes to work, and they are quite big when new, then is should do the trick (unless a short burnt anything out).
That's not really good advice to be honest. Any oily substance getting onto the brushes and the collector causes sparking and rapidly, like in seriously rapidly, accelerates wear.
Parts for those bosch starters are cheap and shouldnt be hard to find. In an emergency situation you could source brushes that can be made to fit and solder them in. Do clean up the collector when fitting new brushes. It's usually shiny and black and gives bad a contact. We clean them up on a lathe with the use of some sandingpaper.
If the bendix is carp, well, there's no alternative fix than to replace it. We always replace those when rebuilding bosch starters. (I work at an alternator and starter repair/rebuild shop)
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Spal, one of the best.
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I too looked at the eccotemp one, found many good reviews on various US sites. You could do a search on expeditionportal.com.
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There's an adapter available to bolt them to a 700r4, that would be the route I would be tempted to take if I were ever to fit a 606 in mine. With another adapter the 700r4 bolts to my Orion Tcase.
The 700r4 has massive aftermarket support and can have TC lockup in all but first gear.
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As for Heims, I'm using the ones from Ruffstuff offroad in the US, very good quality Heims! After 4years of daily driving, in winter as well, there's still no play in them.
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And if you go the extremes of going spring over axle you're opening up another can of worms. You better know how to do it properly and realize it's a LOT of work to do it right, so it actually handles well. Plus it costs heaps of money and you need good fab skills. The end result is worth it though. But be prepared to swap axles, have driveshafts build, cut and weld the chassis for clearance, sort out steering linkages and shock mounts and such.
In other words, way easier to get a defender/90/110 and lift it. Unless you're set on a series obviously. -
Here's some more info on cooling systems, very informative!
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Cooling/ -
The first lesson of a reliable 4x4 is make sure it has enough strength in the drive train to get you out of a difficult situation
A lesson Land Rover apparantly never got or understood.
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Any thoughts on the side-side? I assume the top of the high/low selector housing is level side-side?
Keeping the output flange at a 90 degree angle with the chassis would be good idea. A slight misalignment of 1 or 2 degrees is no biggie.
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Keep the LC80 axles! Just way better in any respect. Parts availability is fantastic, like has been said longfields are available if stronger cv's are needed.
The rear locker is slow to engage as it has 6 splines so to speak, so you need a max 60degree rotational difference between the left and right wheel for it to engage. So read the terrain and make a sharp turn before needing the rear locker engaged. Front locker has a very fine spline so locks very quickly. Do you have some kind of sealant or gasket between the rear locker housing and the diff case? If not, get some. It's aluminium on steel, and we all know what can happen. The locker housing can basically fall apart to dust. Also, extend the breather lines on it and keep the electrical connector full of vaseline. Done this way those lockers are, and remain, very very reliable.
Another thing that hasn't been mentioned yet, the LC80 axles have better bigger brakes. Though the rear calipers need periodical maintanance to keep the sliding pins working smoothly.
Those 4.1 gears are just perfect for 35" tires
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Well we can't have a thread like this without you and me chiming in
I thought you went with the same shocks as I have, which are eye-eye, surely that meant modifying the shock mounts as the original ones are pin-pin
The shocks pick up the standard mounts on the axles as they work well (especially the rears), at the front I put coiler turrets on to allow for the shock length, the rear I moved the mount up to the top of the chassis with a fair bit of bracing. I've got a piccy of the front but not the rear, although there's no rocket science to ether end:
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From all the research I've done I read that revolver style shackles give quite interesting handling both on and offroad. I also didn't like the idea of a shackle that's made of various bolted together bits. Flex shots show the increased articulation but at the expense of handling.
Instead, I opted for longer springs front and back. Rear 3 leaf parabolic springs up front (chassis extended to keep axle location the same) and 63" long chevy rear springs. Obviously new spring mounts need to be fabbed. They can also be bought ready to weld to the chassis, that's what I did in case of the rear mounts. Proper shocks with decent stroke are needed too, including new shock mounts.
Result is huge articulation and very decent road manners, you can really throw it around corners. It does help that it has a very low CoG.
Ride height might be a bit much for some, I have to say it's a lot higher than standard. It still rides really nice though.
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I'll second that. With the older vehicles it's very usefull to know at least the year of the donor vehicle. Toyota part#s can be looked up online so you can know for sure you got the correct part before ordering.
I'm amazed at how much is still available from the Toyota dealer, even engine parts for my 33year old 3B. Spendy but top quality. -
40 series: Narrowest, leaf sprung, front disc brakes (post somewhere mid '70s I believe), drum rear brakes. Lots of aftermarket parts availability
60 series: Wider than 40 series, front discs, rear drums. Can be had with factory cable lockers, large 9.5" diffs, leaf sprung axles. Lots of aftermarket parts availability
70 series: LJ7* versions are 8" diffs, high-pinion front diff, coil sprung with radiusarms front and rear if I'm not mistaken.
80 series: Widest strongest toyota axle, biggest CV's, high pinion 8" front diff, larger 9,5" rear diff, factory electric lockers.
I think your best are 60 series axles. They were made for leaf sprung vehicles so adapting them to a Series LR is a piece of cake. The coil sprung axles are harder to adapt due to their track rod wanting to occupy the same space as the leaf springs (as with range rover axles).
I used 80series axles with Hellfire Fabworks high steer kit. Not cheap but very nice and mega strong.
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Thanks all! I'm going to have a good look at what's doable. Not anytime soon at least, probably next summer.
Modular rims
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Well thank you kind sir