cosecon
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Posts posted by cosecon
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Hi all,
Desperate cry for help here... I am rebuilding the Salisbury diff in the Camel this weekend with the help of a friend who does this sort of thing for a living. I ordered all the parts a couple of weeks ago, but the collapsible washer part number 607197 is still unavailable from Land Rover
.Does anybody have one knocking about they could get off in the post today?
Or if you are in the vicinity of Southampton or surrounding area, can I come and pick up at some point?
Cheers all.
Dan
why don't you give a call to Lrseries or Craddock. They might be able to send via courier.
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/1943/607197-COLLAPSIBLE-COLLER-SPACER.html
http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/products/607197_spacer_for_diff_pinion_salisbury.php
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I use electroclean with a brush or Fluid Gun. It is almost as strong as carb cleaner
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From Wiki (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_economy) I got the following info:
"...Electrolysis of water
Hydrogen can be made via high pressure electrolysis or low pressure electrolysis of water. Current best processes have an efficiency of 50% to 80%,[21][22][23] so that 1 kg of hydrogen (which has an energy density of 143 MJ/kg, about 40 kWh/kg) requires 50 to 79 kWh of electricity..."
I understand that in order to produce 1 Kilo of H2 I have to spend 50-79KWh. This is from the car alternator and it consumes fuel to produce this electricity.
This 1 kilo of H2 gives me 40KWh...therefore I am loosing energy.
BUT there is a big BUT. A car can produce "cheap" electricity when the engine is braking the car (the engine is rotating with no fuel consumption, which causes the alternator to rotate and produce electricity for almost free). So it this is not a straight answer. I guess it is a very sophisticated calculation or a try and error thing...
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Never done it but I ve heard that it might require a little machining in the center of the alloys...
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Been a while but got my son to get under the dash and check it out......He found it where you indicated however the flasher relay appears to be ok but there is a small brown plastic relay?? about 25mm x 25mm x 25mm with 5 flat pins near it that has these numbers printed on it; Y2315 - M52 - X186 (On the First line) AMP 1088 (On the second line) and 12v R601 (On the third line)I'm not sure what it does but it seems to be the culprit.
Probably a generic part but my local dealer doesn't sell them.
Any clues or work around appreciated.
I guess you have misspelled it is AMR1088 and not AMP.
It is described in Microcat as Relay Brown Twin Make Hazard Warning
The same type of relay is used for remote locking.
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Sorry, I checked over the weekend and it looks like I have thrown them away....
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I replaced my bushes a few months ago. I will have a look I might still have the old polybush plates (it was already with polybushes). If i get them you could have them for postage cost....(beware I am a little far away ...just arround the corner...in Greece...but I believe it will not be that expensive)I ll check to see if I still have them tonight, and get their weight to check for postage.
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Lack of air??? Maybe Turbo?????
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For item no 2 see photo. I hope it helps
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1995 Disco 3.9Efi V8
At the bulkhead end of the right hand (looking from front) rocker cover is a vacuum/breather connection (pic 1), can anyone tell me where this should be connected to.
There also appears to be a vacuum pump at the end of the heater inlet and outlet pipes (pic 2), where should this be connected to?
I know I should have looked when I dismantled everything but that was months ago,
I have just finished putting everything back together after a head gasket change, together with lots of other things so I want to start using the old truck again.Thanks in advance
Peter
I believe item in photo no 1 is the breather filter. Please see attached photo I "borrowed" from Ebay
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The moment I see there is no leakage of oil....I top up the gearbox and transfer. You should not be worried when you have a leakage. Worry if you don't cause it means it is empty...
Seriously now, I believe that a small leakage you can live with. I do not think it will get better anyhow.
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As far as I can see from 2007 onwards it is not used .
I also googled it and i found : http://www.lro.com/forum3/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=57851
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Does anyone know the legalities around putting children in the centre seat of a 90?
Hi have 2 girls (5 & 3) and am looking at options - ideally I would convert the rear inward seats to forward facing, but cash is a bit tight at the moment, so I am looking at other options for short journeys.
I have not tried it yet but I am fairly sure the booster seat and car seat will both fit - although the centre seat will only have a lap strap belt.
Which leads to my next question is is possible to fit a 3 point seat belt for the centre seat?
Thanks
I do not know about legislation, but I know I was seating in the middle seat 15years ago, wearing the strap seat belt and we had a crash....I broke my nose and the windscreen with my head...so it is not safe you need to at least change the belt.
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Is it the box type transducer that fits inline with the speedo cable? I have this type on my 110 which went from carb V8 to 3,9 efi . Mine sits up by the brake servo as this is where the cable joins on a 110 speedo . It is wired thru bulkhead to the loom for the ecu which sits in cubby box between front seats . HTSH
Yes I have the box type transducer. Did you use Range Rover cables from transfer to transducer and from transducer to speedo?
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I believe there's a RR unit that fits in-line with the speedo cable.
I'd just MegaSquirt it and have done though
I will, but that is the next step... one step at a time...
1st step carb to efi Hotwire
2nd step LT85 to auto
3rd step MS.....
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It's the sensor that tells the engine ECU that you're in low ratio, so that it can re-map the throttle response as such.
This could be an interesting input for Megasquirt!!!!
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I think it is just a sensor (item 22), I would not mind but just wait for any grown up to answer....
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Finally managed to reinstall the original springs with the +2 Procomp Shocks. I have to say that the ride comfort is way better with stock springs than Bearmach +2 and...it fits the garage....
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I think it is IGM100000 "LOW ratio detect."
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I have just about finished collecting all the bits and pieces required for my conversion for a Defender 90 from carb to EFI Hotwire. I have also acquired a speed transducer, dirty and muddy but checked it and is fully operational.
Now starts the question part:
Where should I mount this transducer? How? What about the cable wires? Can I use Range Rover ones or they have to be custom made to length?
Any help more than welcome!!!
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Hope this helps
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A reconditioned unit form another similar reconditioned unit can be completely different. A very good reconditioned unit can be sometime (rarely but is possible) better than new or at least equivalent.On the other hand a reconditioned unit can be a pressure washed spray painted item (defective inside)
To cut a long story short, I believe as far as value for money is concerned that the best option is to buy a good used unit and rebuild yourself or at a workshop you trust and you can attend the overhauling steps.
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I have had a few purchases for me and on behalf of friends since 1994 from http://www.equicar.co.uk/
They are good, friendly and they sent me all parts to Greece with no damages, so I can safely say the have good packing. I even received a full defender windscreen with glass once and it was intact. I believe the pricing is a little on the higher side, but at least you get what you pay for...sometimes cheap is more expensive...
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I have just finished putting everything back together after a head gasket change, together with lots of other things so I want to start using the old truck again.
Urgently needed part - Anybody got one?
in International Forum
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LRSeries shows it has both replacement and LRover.