cabbageboy

Got it! Found the problem last night - well chuffed that it's fixed - made a huge difference, and it's back to how I remember it now! It was a bolt that had fallen off the power steering pump - holding it to the block - obviously just resonating at a certain rpm... New bolt, nice a tight - hey presto... Cheers

Guys Since my cam-belt saga, and having the motor back on the road now, I've noticed that the engine appears to 'vibrate'quite a bit at around 3000rpm... When I say 'vibrate' - I mean like the engine is being thrashed - a 'tingling' vibration can be felt through the gear stick, pedals, and generally in the cabin....Not like a loose engine mount, or something knocking/vibrating. Now firstly, I'm not sure of this is 'normal'', and I've just got used to driving a nice new(ish) car with modern diesel engine, and forgotten how the Disco Drove - I keep asking myself - 'did it used to do this?!' Any ideas, or feedback on your 200tdi - does it rev freely and without any significant vibration at 3000rpm? - Mine is quite noticably 'rougher'at 3000rpm, than say at 2500....like I'm thrashing it too much.... Not a major problem, as it's not usual for me to rev it at this range - just say 1st gear, always passes to this rev range, and it feels 'rough' Or if a problem, what might it be - could it be something to do with the Crank pulley/vibration damper? Cheers Matt

Hi Steve I was thinking about the crank pulley/harmonic damper as they call it - wondered if this had got distorted/damaged during the removal - could well be the case - would this cause vibration like this??

Chaps! Many thanks for ALL the replies! - I must admit, this has caused me to MAKE time to look at this, rather than being lazy and letting someone else get on with it!!! Firslty, it's now working! - yippee! Secondly, my 'mechanic' mate has got a black eye! (not really, just sent back to school!) The problem? - The pump timing was 180 degrees out. HOW I hear you all cry! - well, as I mentioned, it was a major hasstle to get everything apart, as the previous owner, or garage, or whoever had gone MAD with a bottle of locktite, and 'fixed' the sheared woodruf key on the crank with a HUGE breaker bar and lots and lots of locktite.......Same applied to the waterpump, viscus fan, etc....NICE! And some other bodger in the past had made a second 'timing punch mark' on the Cam pulley - 180 degrees opposite from the original one... So, amongst all the confusion of having to cut things off with gas (like the bottom crank timing belt pulley - ouch!) the pump was locked, but the cam pulley was moved onto the 'wrong' timing mark.... Crank set correctly, keyway at 12:00 - all re-assembled..... Hence crank and cam were OK, but pump was 180 degrees out..... Now, it's not totally the end of the story! It's all working now, and seems to pull ok, but I'm sure it vibrates more than it used to at 3000 rpm! - kind of a 'tingling' vibration through the gearstick, and it reverbarates in the cabin. Nasty at 70mph - 3000rpm! Don't know if it's just me, having driven a newer car for a while, with the Disco in the workshop for ages....but is does seem to have more vibration than it used to.... Any ideas? - I'm going to take a look over it this weekend, see if anything is obvious..... And thanks again for all the ideas and support!!

Chaps! Many thanks for ALL the replies! - I must admit, this has caused me to MAKE time to look at this, rather than being lazy and letting someone else get on with it!!! Firslty, it's now working! - yippee! Secondly, my 'mechanic' mate has got a black eye! (not really, just sent back to school!) The problem? - The pump timing was 180 degrees out. HOW I hear you all cry! - well, as I mentioned, it was a major hasstle to get everything apart, as the previous owner, or garage, or whoever had gone MAD with a bottle of locktite, and 'fixed' the sheared woodruf key on the crank with a HUGE breaker bar and lots and lots of locktite.......Same applied to the waterpump, viscus fan, etc....NICE! And some other bodger in the past had made a second 'timing punch mark' on the Cam pulley - 180 degrees opposite from the original one... So, amongst all the confusion of having to cut things off with gas (like the bottom crank timing belt pulley - ouch!) the pump was locked, but the cam pulley was moved onto the 'wrong' timing mark.... Crank set correctly, keyway at 12:00 - all re-assembled..... Hence crank and cam were OK, but pump was 180 degrees out..... Now, it's not totally the end of the story! It's all working now, and seems to pull ok, but I'm sure it vibrates more than it used to at 3000 rpm! - kind of a 'tingling' vibration through the gearstick, and it reverbarates in the cabin. Nasty at 70mph - 3000rpm! Don't know if it's just me, having driven a newer car for a while, with the Disco in the workshop for ages....but is does seem to have more vibration than it used to.... Any ideas? - I'm going to take a look over it this weekend, see if anything is obvious..... And thanks again for all the ideas and support!!

Nothing else done at all...........Just the cambelt.... I'm interested in the fuel stop solenoid idea - maybe this wire has been dis-lodged/damaged........

Folks I hope someone can shed some wisdom on this nightmare problem!!! I must admit I haven't been directly involved in the work, but it's my car, and I'd like to have it working again!!! My friend, who's a very competent and qualified mechanic did my timingbelt for me, as I haven't had time myself... He's done these many times before, as well as regularly working on far more complicated things than a basic 200tdi engine! Basically - replaced the timing belt - had a bit of a mare getting things off, siezed this and that, but after the initial hastle, things went fine... After re-build - the dammn thing just will NOT start at all. It's crazy - stripped it all down again, checked, double checked all timing marks - including the bell housing marks - all correct. Fuel pump locked with the pin, timing marks all check out OK Compression checked - all fine Fuel is being delivered out of the pump to the cylinders (removed pipe to check) Just will not fire - can turn it over all day, tow start, etc etc - nothing - not a peep, not even an attempt to fire. Bear in mind - this engine was absolutely fine before - the cambelt replacement was a maintenance thing - it had not broken, just routine maintenance. Any ideas? - it seems so simple, everything appears OK, but maybe we're missing something? Thanks! Matt

Folks I hope someone can shed some wisdom on this nightmare problem!!! I must admit I haven't been directly involved in the work, but it's my car, and I'd like to have it working again!!! My friend, who's a very competent and qualified mechanic did my timingbelt for me, as I haven't had time myself... He's done these many times before, as well as regularly working on far more complicated things than a basic 200tdi engine! Basically - replaced the timing belt - had a bit of a mare getting things off, siezed this and that, but after the initial hastle, things went fine... After re-build - the dammn thing just will NOT start at all. It's crazy - stripped it all down again, checked, double checked all timing marks - including the bell housing marks - all correct. Fuel pump locked with the pin, timing marks all check out OK Compression checked - all fine Fuel is being delivered out of the pump to the cylinders (removed pipe to check) Just will not fire - can turn it over all day, tow start, etc etc - nothing - not a peep, not even an attempt to fire. Bear in mind - this engine was absolutely fine before - the cambelt replacement was a maintenance thing - it had not broken, just routine maintenance. Any ideas? - it seems so simple, everything appears OK, but maybe we're missing something? Thanks! Matt

No - it's just got the body ones. And it's not flashing - it's just on permanently - from the time you turn the ignition on, to the time you turn it off - doesn't flash at all - with or without trailer. It DID flash correctly on the old relay, but that relay didn't flash the Indicator tell tale on the dash!!

Orgasmic Farmer - thanks for the reply.. Just tried disconnecting that, but to no avail..... I rekon I'll just take the dash bulb out - if as you say the light doesn't work reliably anyway, then it's not really worth having. It will be an MOT pass for the Indicator repeaters, so that's good as far as I'm concerned - they're not bothered about the trailer repeater, and nor am I, so best away with it I think... Cheers all for the replies - that saved me oodles of time messing about with an avo meter!!!!

Hi Guys Thanks for all the responses! I've bought a new relay today, and yay - the indicator tel tale light now works!! - Hurrahh!!! BUT The Trailer light is now on permanently!!! With the old one, the Trailer light flashed correclty, when a trailer was attached - now it's just on permanently, and doesn't flash at all - trailer attached or not!! I just wonder if the new relay is duff, or it's working correctly, and showing up a problem with the trailer electrics.... How is this light supposed to work? - Is it ever supposed to be on permanently? - I thought it would just flash with the indicators if you had a trailer attached.... Hey ho - I can always take the bulb out of the dash! - that'll fix it!

Chaps Quick question - My disco (92, Disco 1) has a problem with the dashboard direction indicator light - it doesn't work... When I got the car (3-4 months ago) it used to ocassionally work, but not for long - 3 flashes at most! Now the external indicator lights are fine, and the relay clicks away no problems...Just the dash light doesn't work. I've stripped the dash panel out tonight, and verified that it's NOT the dash bulb - switched around bulbs, and no, it's not that thats the problem... Any other ideas where to look next? - Could the relay be the problem? - I can't lay my hands on a Discovery 1 electrical manual - I've got a Disco 2 version, but it does appear to be different.. Just wondered if by any chance someone else has had a similar problem... Cheers

Guys - thanks! Thanks for all your responses - it's great to know it's 'normal' For clarification, Yes, I did fit the right springs to front and rear (They were the uprated Brittpart ones). And there was no percievable or marked difference between sides (N/S versus O/S) - both side springs appeared to be identical in length and appearance prior to fitting... Oh well, it doesn't really matter - I'll just have to get fat passengers!

Hi Guys I'm newish to Landrovers, so I'm looking to those more knowledgable!! I have a 92 Disco 200 Tdi, which had a 'bit of a lean' to the Drivers side - particularly noticable at the back end. I thought - 'just worn springs, etc' - so as part of my preparations for off-road activity (inc fitting dislocation cones), I have replaced ALL springs, shocks, and front turrets. I used the Brittpart Offroad Yellow kit that Paddocks sell, with the yellow uprated turrets at the front... Guess what? - yep, still got a lean! (And yes, I do have the vehicle on a flat surface, with nothing inside the car) Here are the measurements from wheel centre to wheen arch: N/S/F - 20" O/S/F - 19.5" N/S/R - 19.5" N/S/R - 18" That's 1 and a half inches difference side to side! Question is - is this normal? - If not, what else is wrong to cause that type of problem? - bent chassis?

Hi Just looking to learn from others experience here.... I'm going to be replacing my springs and shocks on my 92 Disco soon, and was considering using the uprated Springs from Paddocks, rather than the standard ones. I'm also doing a polybush kit at the same time - standard kit, not hard one. I don't want any lift on it, just std height. Question is - will the on-road ride be VERY different - i.e. harder, bouncier than if I fit standard springs?? It's not going to be doing monster mileage on-road, but nonetheless, I didn't really want to feel like I'm riding on concrete suspension! I will be doing off-road stuff, hence the bias towards using these uprated springs Any experience / advice gratefully received! Thx