SeriesEwan
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Posts posted by SeriesEwan
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You have put a socket or something over the end so the bush isn't bearing on the bolt head/nut of the bolt, haven't you?
yes i have an arrangement with a bit of stout pipe & a flat piece of iron over the end
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righty, well i have now managed to pull the thread off a machine bolt so i am guessin its proper proper stuck going to cut it out & start again using the advice listed here hopefully i will be 2nd time lucky
Rtbarton can you reccomend any series friendly garages round sheffield?
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hmmm i was concerned about pulling back but if its needed its needed. i was planning on getting some machine bolts ( as in the black high tensile variety that are used in many places ) instead of the coach bolts to see if that is any better hoepfully i can ram it the last bit without any issues
would it be detrimental to run with it poking out a tiny smidge?
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Morning all,
had a mare of a time this weekend trying to replace a front bush on my 88 took a day and a half of tap tap tapping with a hammer & chisel/ hacksaw/ flame to get the old one out ( until rescued by a neighbour with a hammer drill ) then i got as far as pushing the new one in. I got it most of the way home using a big coach bolt some biffy washers & a nut. Anyway i got it more or less in ( just a quarter of an inch to go i would say ) & i go & snap the coach bolt. So I try again with another coach bolt & that gives up immediately. Does anyone have any bright suggestions how i can push / pull it that last 1/4 inch?
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just started the same project & i also got the Dowells from cradocks sans nuts for the end
what thread are the nuts?
Many thanks
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never heard of Sikaflex but a quick google makes me think that I wish I had discovered it earlier!
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sorry to reopen an old thread,
i pulled off my old braces yesterday in the anticipation of fitting new ones this weekend, anyway as you would probably expect the ribs across the bottom of the floor have turned to white powder & departed from the underside of the vehicle,
now the only way i can think of solving this one is getting some strips made up & pop riveting them over the existing units? any other suggestions or sources of appropriate rib substitute welcome
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thats a great write up, I never thought about refurbing old springs, what's the ride like now its been done?
how do you go about replacing the wrap around clips?
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The idea of fitting a valve to the clutch line is of interest, though that would render the "leaving it in gear when you park in case the handbrake slips" usless. Unless it was set up in such a manner that pressing the pedal wouldn't operate the clutch??
What kind of valve??
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while I am posting hello to another local
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Love your Registration plate
taking the rotor arm off is good,but you then need to carry it about ( i broke mine in my pocket once ) I also have also been known to swap ignition leads about ( i cant see a thief spending time trying to fix badly misfiring none starter )
I know of someone ( not with a landy ) who fully closes their choke & removes the knob for it thus leading to an engine that wont start ( carb is a bad match for their engine )
the nature of S3 electrics also means there are many places to hide a sneaky inhibit switch oldy but a goody, though the plain nature of the S3 interior means you have to get a bit creative in its/their positioning
the place i work in use meck locks in the brake lines of some of the trucks but i wouldn't really want to do that with S3 brakes ( plus there are UK legality issues in this ) so i would advise sticking one in the clutch line if yo were to do it
on a more extreme note removing the starter motor & relying on hand crank only...... switch in the HT circuit to reroute the ignition to the steering wheel.... the list is endless
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the search bar is the answer my friend, been covered many times, mainly in the disco section
love it
your nicely settled now then -
i have some utterly cheap & nasty 100% man made carpet in mine ( polyester or nylon i cant remember it came out of my old office after a refit) does the job nicely
avoid wooly/ natural carpets as the damp levels in a landy can start them rotting
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righty o next time i am up there ( which will probably be the weekend ) i will get the number off it for you & PM it
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where are you? what price range & are you willing to travel? I know of one on the road side for sale
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ouch that sounds like it turned into a biggy then, i have a feeling the floor ribs might have gone over the braces too, I think most of my huck bolts have long disapeared / corroded. Are there any further implications in removing the floor? obviously its spot welded to the sides of the tub would riveting it back be good enough or does it need rewelding?
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hi, does anybody know a website, or somebody on here that can decode series 11a 109 chassis numbers? been to look at one but its on a qplate with no logbook and the owner has no idea of its date of manufacture, would like to find out a little more about it from its chassis number thanks
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huzzarr it didnt fail on the braces at least
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would rusted / holed braces be an mot failure?
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huzzarr,, well it got me to the lakes & back this weekend, the problem seemed to improve but not go away. Anyhooo got her back & whipped off the rocker cover & started pressing the valves with a bit of wood to act as a lever.... inlet valve on the offending cylinder was sticking a bit & not allways coming home each time
thanks for all your help guys
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and hello quagmire, i see what you mean about the parts, more things to go wrong eyy!! im not sure but does the weber needle/jets always get blocked up or is that just a myth?? cheers james
the jets get clogged in the weber 34ICH because they sit at the bottom of the fuel bowl sayin that it is quite easy to clean them out as they are easy to get at ( or doing the suck thing with your hand usually does it ) I havent had any problems with mine since I fitted an inline filter
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i do want a defender but ill never get one!
if i sold mine, i would be on a huge loss and insure is cheap??? try £3500 for a '68 s11 no mods 
now tell me thats not over a barrel???JEEZUS that is crazy talk!! is that a streight up 3rd party fire theft? have you got limited annual mileage? is it a classic policy? I feel for you with that one mate
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Now by all means swat me down & call me silly, But I am looking at the bigger picture here
Your wanting power steering in a series II
your also wanting said series II to go faster by modifying carbs etc
Do you really want a defender? its faster(ish) but ish is more than you will get out of an old 2286 and you can get one with PAS... If so then sell the series & buy a defender simples
plus your only 16 so I am guessing you will want to be learning to drive ( legally on the roads that is ) sometime soon. Nothing wrong with doing it in a series landy its a fine vehicle to learn to drive in ( and a series does teach you a lot of respect for the road too ) but have you thought about getting insurance at 17 with a MODIFIED car?
stock landy will be cheap as chips to insure,(well in the bigger picture anyway the first few years WILL sting but that's inevitable) once you start modding & tweaking then it gives insurance companies an excuse to have you over a barrel
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As a question, why are you fitting PAS? When rolling, the landrover steering is very light. Do you have very wide tyres? Check the steering relay for oil.
a very valid point....also check the steering box for oil / internal evils & wear
if i sold mine, i would be on a huge loss and insure is cheap??? try £3500 for a '68 s11 no mods 
now tell me thats not over a barrel???
Stuck
in Series Forum
Posted
OHHHHHHHHHHHH
you mean on the back of it dont you!!!!!!!!!!
*penny drops* that might well be my trouble