Marco
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Posts posted by Marco
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Thanks for the replies. Ordered all bits and pieces and downloaded a workshop manual. Planning to do this clutch job within a few weeks / next Month.
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the links don't work, come up as 404 not found
these might help with obtaining parts
slave cylinder/release mechanism http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1235/4673/4674/357
master cylinder http://new.lrcat.com/#!/1235/6391/6392/554
Thanks for the reply, amended links and they do now work, for some reason just copy/paste url gives an additional space at the end creating a 404.
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Hi, my 2007 2.4 Puma Defender (93.000km) has started to use clutch fluid. It does not leak at master cylinder or at the pipework so expect it to be the slave cylinder. To my surprise that one is fitted in the bell housing and only accessible by dropping the gearbox. Not an easy job but also not impossible. Main question is which parts should I buy to replace all bits inside the bell housing.
I did find these ones:
Do I have them all or should I get some more (or less) bits for this job?
I did find this helpful video..
In general: the Puma clutch operation is heavy, much heavier than at my 200Tdi. There is also some clutch judder when cold. This could be caused by the leaking fluid IMO?
Alternatively to the DIY job I can bring the car to a (Land Rover) workshop but expect costs to be very high.
Cheers,
Marco
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Hi,
I'm looking for an auxiliary tank for my 130 Defender (2007 Puma) to increase it's range. The only one I can find up to now is the (old) Frontrunner one which I have fitted to my old 200Tdi. Any other ideas?
Cheers
Marco
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I've checked during the weekend, no problem at fuse box so I did take out the cubby box and center panel of the seat box. No problem at reverse light switch connector. Bypassed the reverse light switch and got the light working. So clearly a faulty switch. Have ordered the part here: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=151127 Thanks for replies.
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Unfortunately no bad earth and not corrosion, checked multiple earth options (wire, body etc.) and cleaned socket, checked directly on connector etc. Expect it to be something like bad switch. Need to take out the cubby box..
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Checked but bad earth is not the problem, both in socket and via a separate earth on vehicle body I do get the same low glowing of the diagnostic pen. The voltage without running the engine is 11,9 Volt so guess something is wrong with the Amperes, just not enough current flowing to the light the bulb. Next step will be checking at the reverse light switch.. Within 20+ years Landy ownership I've never come accross such an small (frustrating) electric problem..
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Hi, small problem with the reversing light on my 2007 Puma 130. It does not work... But with ignition on and with gearbox in reverse there is some current at the lamp socket. My small 12v diagnostic light/pen will light up but compared to the other sockets (tail lights, indicater) it does not light up as bright as the other ones.. All bulbs tried and no one will light up (nothing at all) so guess voltage is to low. Will try to find a voltmeter for correct testing but in the meantime maybe one of the forum members does know the answer to this problem? Cheers, Marco
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Picture taken just now... you can see the shim/washer between caliper and bracket.
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I've been using 5mm spacer plates and to align the caliper and discs I've used two standard mild steel M12 washers (between caliper and bracket), guess those are 1mm thick. This has been in place since 2008 without any problems.
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The brake pipes on my rear axle are home made using copper/nikkel piping and the right (metric) unions. As far as I can remember I've used the same pipes as the ones already fitted to the drum brake cylinders. With standard pipes you might not be able to reuse the old ones.
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maybe the spacers are only required if the mudshields are not fitted, as they have a bracket part that fits between axle bracket & caliper.which is approx 5mm thick
That does make sense.... I've build mine without mudshields and with the 'Diesel Jim' style angle grinder spacers. Brakes have been faultless since 2008!
Western, just start yours and enjoy rear disc brakes, I did build mine within two days prior a Southern France holiday so it's not that much work if parts are on the shelve.
Only fault I did make is to fit Paddock's drilled performance (carp) discs + no anti squeal shims... so driving in Nice was a lot of fun. Right now I do have Mintex discs and LR pads + shims, silent.
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makes a change for LR to actually put the paint code on the VIN plate must be a new guy doing those.
Haha, yes that's right, never seen it before!
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Identified car as Tonga Green metallic. LRC 904 it's on the VIN plate fitted to the brake servo. It's now my new Landy, nice to have a Tonga green car for Tongasabi Safaris. Only wonder if LR Tonga is pointed to Tonga (Island/Kingdom) or Tonga (people in Zambia/Zimbabwe)
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Strange that they only produced Tonga that short, it's a nice shade like the good old Bronze Green...
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Difficult to tell but it looks like Tonga Green.
Thx, yes could be Tonga green, if I look at some other internet pictures they do match that shade (more than the other two).
Cheers
Marco
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Hi,
I'm trying to identify the green metallic color of this 2007 Puma Defender.. is it Galway or Epson?
Cheers
Marco
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I'm watching this with interest - I'd like to go the factory route but don't want to spend much money. Due to the latter, I've only got the disks and pads so far. Therefore I need:
Brake calipers
Caliper brackets
200tdi Stub axles
and??????? lots of advice!
Not much more is needed, with parts above you will have to make two spacers 5-6mm thick to go between the caliper and the bracket. And maybe a suitable spacer for the hub lock nut + some longer caliper bolts. All can be found as standard parts. I rate it as an easy and durable conversion.
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Is it an ex fleet vehicle or private?
It's sold via a trader, do not know the history but 123.000 km / 4 years is a lot of km IMO. Driver seat also completely worn, guess vehicle has not been used by a "real" LR enthusiast!
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I've had both and TBH there's nothing really more complicated about maintaining a Puma compared to a TD5. Out of curiosity where are the leaks from on the 2008?
Two pictures I've made of the engine leak, 123000 KM, looks like rocker cover?
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Thanks for the answers, guess for me it will be relatively easy to maintain. Have looked at an 2008 @124.000km but than one had some pretty bad oil leaks on the engine. Will check out another one next week to compare.
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Does anybody know? There must be forum members with a 2.4Tdci powered Defender. Or do they all go to the garage?
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Hi,
Some images:
1. underside Td5, looks like rubber / plastic cover but butchered with knife and lot's of oil.... standard item? (185.000 km)
2. Td4 engine oil leak, any idea? (123.000 km)
3. Td4 same engine rocker cover leak or worse?
It's two cars I have had a look at today.
Cheers
Marco
Engine noise on acceleration and engine braking
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi,
Unfortunately I cannot remember, I swapped the LT77 for a R380 shorty box (Ashcroft) a little later. Very nice mod. Vehicle sold some years back and showed up in the United States last year!
Cheers
Marco