Marco
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Posts posted by Marco
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My next project, aircon into my 200Tdi.
I do have a full size intercooler (Allisport), the standard 200Tdi radiator and a new aircon condenser. The main question, what will happen to the airflow..... I'm running my 200Tdi without visco fan but with a Pacet fan. That set-up has been fine except during very hot days @ crossing steep motorways in the Alpes. I presume adding a condensor in front of the full size intercooler will reduce airflow through both the intercooler and radiator? The alternative could be either fitting the Visco fan (and the Pacet) or replacing the full size intercooler with a standard / small performance one.
Is anybody running a Defender with aircon, condensor and full size intercooler?
Something else... is Allisport still in business (presume yes) but there website is not working properly...
Cheers
Marco
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That's a tidy 88" you have there Marco.
Thanks!
It looks nice except the chassis... I do hope it will pass the local MOT here in Holland. If not the only solution is a new chassis!
Cheers
Marco
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Marco: I dont want to criticise your work, but you've pointed out that you've rebuilt the box without checking any of the bearing preloads, and now the box is whining... The preloads are there for a reason, so how do you know the whining isnt caused by the bearings?
No problem. That's why I did write 'probably', the one thing I do know there is no play on the shafts and bearings and I've used common sense and have made a careful decision force needed to turn shafts.
e.g. I've noticed taking out the thin paper gasket will make a difference on preload.
The input gear fitted did not belong to this particular box so it can be the reason of the whine. I'ts always better to use special tools I guess but I did not have and buying is no option. The actual reason why I did start my LT230 DIY job has been the fact that my professionally reconditioned box did not last.... I presume it all depends on accuracy of the person doing the actual recon job.
Cheers
Marco
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yeah the truck have been sitting for over 5 years in a garage he assure me that there's nothing wrong and gave me 3 month warranty.but i will check it first. what was the gear that i can replace behind the round plate
?That's the input gear, my advice is to open up the rear cover, take out the gear and check if splines are OK
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To make matters worse, i cant just do what the other chap did (ie leave the original shims in and hope it will all work out) becuase the box i'm rebuilding is an LT230Q/SE (from a D2 V8) which doesnt have a speedo drive output. As such, i'll be using the rear output housing from my old LT230T, and given the housing will then be different, the stock shims arent going to cut it.
Anyone done this or have any experience with it? I suspect buying the genuine tools will be extremely expensive!
Tools are way to expensive (you can buy several complete recon units of the shelf) so I did not buy or use any. I do no see a huge problem by fitting the rear (speedo) drive output as that part of the LT230 is not used for setting preload. The only exception is the fact that the outer race of the rear (main) shaft bearing should be recessed into the casing by +/- 1mm. You can check that with the rear output housing, it does have a ridge and should just fit (check with or without gasket, depening if you use sealant or paper gasket).
My box is now at 6000+ km and still going strong. At 1200 km I've inspected it via the bottom plate. The only strange bit is the alligment of input gear and intermediate gear, one mm difference. According to Ashcroft it is common they often do not line up properly...
My box is making a whining noise at 110km/h (probably caused by the cross drilled input gear) and I'm planning to replace it with my next DIY recon box.
Cheers
Marco
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Do you know any history on the replacement box? e.g. I did buy a complete scrap 110 200Tdi in 2003 with 96.000 Miles and that box did have excessive main shaft wear. Only replaced it in 2007 but at that stage the splines were almost gone. I suggest to inspect the splines of both the input gear (LT230) and the main shaft (LT77) before buying the units.
Cheers
Marco
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By now I've received all parts (via All Wheel Trim) to fit the soft top, staples, front hooks, claw hooks and horse shows.
Guess the staple is at the right place, the hood strap will both fit the staple (downwards) and center tube of the frame (to the front).
Cheers
Marco
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When you rebuilt it, did you use parts from different transmissions?
EG a input gear from a different box say, or perhaps even a new aftermarket one?
The whine could be caused by differing levels of wear on the teeth causing them not to quite mesh perfectly?
On my own rebuild I did use a cross drilled gear from another box. But if I check between several gears on my shelf incl. the overdrive some match and some do not match. The previously fitted overdrive did not match but that one did not whine either... as soon as I do have time for the transfer box I will swap gears from the old casing into the new one.
The question is if it's caused by shorter gears or different casings... as there are no shims to adjust. There will be an update as soon as I've investigated.
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might be worth a phone call or e.mail to Ashcroft Tansmissions for their advice.
I've received feedback from Ashcroft and they (Dave) does say it's normal the gears often do not line up properly... guess either the length of the individual input gears are not 100% the same or between casings the dept of the outer bearing race hole is variable... interesting.
Cheers
Marco
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Update on this one... over the weekend I've swapped axles. I've fitted the RRC axle with air suspension brackets and the wider trailing arms of a 300Tdi Discovery (found some 2nd hand ones). All fine but the only concern is the clearance between air suspension bracket and the panhard to steering box bolt. There is just enough clearance for the axle to move up and down and I might have to pull out the angle grinder to trim the bracket down. Replaced all four steering joints, front brake discs & pads. One of the most time consuming jobs removing the steering box drop arm, it only came off by using a blow torch and heat. So in the end a successful job. The casing has been refunded to me which is good but buying and collecting the trailing arms + new wider OEM bushes did cost me about the same.
Cheers
Marco
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Is it the 'front rope hook' listed on this page near the bottom:
http://www.allwheeltrim.co.uk/Frames.html
Bottom right part on this diagram?
Thanks for the quick reponse!
That little hook is missing so will get one :-) it's my first canvas hood landy...
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Maybe a bit of a strange question... how to fit / connect the lower rope of the canvas hood at the front just behind the door. There are 3 hooks on the 88 tub but nothing at the front (at rear of front door). I presume there should be some kind of bracket, hook etc. But can not find anything listed in the part catalogue.
Maybe somebody has a close up picture available?
Cheers
Marco
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going on the weblink to LRSeries for the axle & the info above ref RRC radius arm bolts, I reckon they are what you need to connect radius arm & axle.
Yep that axle part number is mine, they are also my supplier... and as far as I know they stripped such an axle to supply me with this (wrong) casing...
Cheers
Marco
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RDI100031 is for the chassis end of the radius arms on a D2, they're different to Discos/Defenders, in that they attach like the rear trailing arms.
There is a BX116221 listed for RRC 1992-1994 only, doesnt have a length, but the description says "long"
(edit: another website says the BX116221 is M16x110, so its probably the one you need)
That does sound like the right part number and part... found this one listing M16x110 Land Rover Classic Parts
Thanks
Marco
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That is the only number for D2 radius arms to axle bolts, no alternatives given in microcat for D2 with or without air suspension.
radius arm to chassis bolt is --- BOLT - SPECIAL - Part No. RDI100031, but I can't find a length for it.
maybe these are what you need
Thanks again, guess it's a bit of an obsolete part... searching the part number does not show size etc. Not sure if any standard 8.8 gauge steel M16 x 110/112 bolt will be strong enough for this application... my 'Paddocks' bolt do not have a rating. So to be continued... next weekend I might start on the front axle project incl. the wide radius arms...
Cheers
Marco
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Marco
D2 radius arm to axle bolts are M16 x 100mm part ANR5804
the nuts are M16 Nyloc ANR3140
HTH
Thanks. I checked the bolt length needed just now but 100mm is to short (100mm = standard length for radius arm bolt, see my picture). Guess it should be a M16 x 110-120 mm but so far I can not find a LR parts shop listing that length.
Cheers
Marco
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Thanks guys :-) Guess 'G' is for glazed... normally genuine but that can't be true.. my car will spend most of it's life indoors so might be able to extend the 24 Month lifespan :-)
Cheers
Marco
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AP Lockheed are OEM. Your warped discs are probably Britpart, which have a reputation for warping and, of course, are Paddock's primary supplier.
Thanks, in the meantime I did buy the Mintex ones... arrived today. I might get another set, maybe AP as I do have the same vented 'performance' BP parts at the back.
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To me this is an easy job.... I suggest to upgrade to the later type hinge as fitted to Td5 Defenders. Use standard bolts and not stainless steel ones. The stainless steel bolts will make your hinges rust badly (I did take them off). Use copper grease to fit the bolts.
Cheers
Marco
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Ah, when you say 2" thick, you mean 2" diameter? In which case, yes it is normal on a later axle (both RRCs I have had had them), and yes, you will need longer bolts...
TBH, I would send them photos of the differences and part numbers and get them to replace with what you asked for!
2cm thick, see my image of the bolt (at LH side) which is fitted but is not long enough.
So far the supplier did offer me a refund on the casing, supplying the right part is probably to difficult or to expensive. A refund is however not my preferred solution as I planned a quick axle swap using my existing axle parts. Now I might have to search for an alternative casing or try to fit this axle using some extra bits like the wider radius arms...
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You sure that reinforcement isn't an anti-roll bar mount? they are held by what looks like two ball joints joined to look like a dog bone...
No it's just a tick piece of steel / washer where the radius arm bush bolt is fitted. My bolts do fit but are 5mm short to take the full nylock. There are separate brackets for the anti roll bar.
Does anybody know if Discovery Series 1 3000Tdi wide radius arm are similar to Defender 300Tdi? I think yes looking at part numbers for replacement kits... anybody to confirm?
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Thanks, so no corrected radius arms for me
... will try to get some 2nd hand standard ones this side.I've just checked and the hole pattern for the swivels is the same so no problems with fitting my swivels. Not sure if there are any (half shaft) bearings & seals fitted into the axle casing (can not find in my part catalogue) but presume there must be a bearing or seal inside the axle casing end?
If springs and radius arms are all at the same chassis width than I guess this casing will fit if I do have the correct radius arms.
The only other thing beside the air susp. brackets is the +/- 2cm thick extension/washer for the radius arm bush & bolt welded onto the axle. No clue if that's standard or not as my old narrow radius arm axle does not have such a reinforcement.
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on standard springs there won't be any need for castor corrected arms, only if raised more than 2 inches from standard.
OK, but will they (the camber corrected ones) do any harm on standard height? I will probably have to get some wider arms either 2nd hand or new... the new ones supplied are mostly the 3 degree ones..
?
... will try to get some 2nd hand standard ones this side.
Anti Roll Bars
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Just only the standard 110 bar at the back does make a huge difference... you will need chassis bushes and bracket (to hold the bushes) but guess they are relatively cheap to order. And if you fit a second hand bar replace joints with quality items and not the cheapest ones available.
Cheers
Marco