danny70

Hi i know its a bit of an odd request however it as the colour codes for the diagrams dont seem to match what i have got it is harder. I need to identify the alarm microswitch colour off the door barrel and if they plug in the same colour loom on the body. Am just trying to save the agro of manually tracing the wires back to their source.

Hi all l have been really struggling to get the wiring on my 300 chassis, td5 body to work with the doors. I have been able to get the doors to lock and unlock however i am having an issue with the wiring colours. I have checked a haynes and RAVE but the colours dont seem right. Does anyone have some pictures of the wiring colours on the drivers door actuator and what colours they plug onto inside the footwell. if possible the alarm microswitch loom colours as well. If i can sort this then will be able to finish this project. So as to clarify i need the colours as fitted to a 1996 300tdi can then convert to the td5 door thanks

Hi all wonder if any one out there can help. I am working on a discovery 1 - 2 conversion. I am using series 1 wiring on a series 2 body and am trying to wire the newer doors to the older MFU. Its a 1999 body and i am hoping the RAVE will give a breakdown on the internals of the drivers door and the motors. I have a RAVE this i would appreciate the helpcd on a disco 2 unfortunately i dont have the electricals on it. If anyone can help with this i would appreciate the help.

Hi there many thanks for the reply i have looked at the rave format and will have to come up with some ideas. I might try fitting resistors inline to replicate the flasher units i have removed. The D2 door locks are a bigger problem to run on a the d1 loom and MFU i think its poss maybe using a couple of relays and diodes. Again if anybody has tried this or has any experience with this i would appreciate their comments. Even if its your bonkers to try !

Hi there sorry i tried to explain the problem in depth that what i am after didnt come across clear. I have issues that i need to deal with:- 1/ my trailer light on the dash flashes with my hazards even when no trailer connected. 2/ in indicator funtion the repeaters flash twice as fast but no trailer indicated as should be. 3/ has anyone tried to run td5 door locks on a 300 loom. I did wonder as the motors need power to lock and unlock wether its poss to set up a feed which is reverersible in polarity. Again any comments welcome. can anyone explain how the dash knows a trailer is connected so i can start to understand my light issue. Please bear in mind that its a 300 loom running the td5 lights and am sure its my modifying that caused the prob. just dont know how. Hope this all makes sense

Hi all have posted on here before and the help has been great. So here is the lowdown i am fitting a td5 shell to a 300 chassis, running gear and electrics. I am getting in the final phase of the project and am having probs which i thought somebody on here might be able to help with. Originally the 300 shell had two sets of indicators on the rear on the td5 i am running one set on the bumper. On testing the lights i had no trailer indicator on the dash. Also the hazards flashed at normal speed and the turn signals at double speed. After some testing and adding an earth missing in the line i now have hazards and trailer light continuous at normal speed. Turn signals and with no trailer lights at double speed. The second part of this blog is about the door locking system. I know this is a long shot but i wanted to run the door locks from the td5 on the 300 loom. i know there are massive differences in the system but i was wondering if its poss to run the locking motors through some relays and the MFU. Does any one have any knowledge of the wiring code on the drivers door lock.There are 7 wires on the td system and i need to id up the motor wires. Any thoughts appreciated.

hi all thought time i posted on progress of my project. amazing how many bits of a 300 will fit a td5 shell, also amazing how small some of the differences in size preventing use are. i have wire wheeled shot blasted the engine bay, painted and sealed the shell. the shell is now sitting on the chassis the rear body mount will have to be modified as well the moving the pair over the rear axle. I am using the series 1 loom modified to deal with the interior of the td5 shell next step will be to wire up the electrics and get the engine fired up again. will post pics and more detail at a later date

have decide to take the plunge with this idea of a later shell. Have purchased a fire damaged front end shell will keep everyone posted how it goes !

thanks guys appreciate the input. Have read a variety of posts about the slight size difference however there were comments that the mounting might be the same

Hello everyone my name is Dan completely new to the world of LR but am well hooked allready. I recently obtained a series 300 badly damaged on the back body. Also severly corroded in all the normal places wheel arches boot footwells etc. My next question looking at the parts availability and time involved i think fitting a later series 2 body would be more beneficial. Has anyone done this and if so are there any major problems? was going to use as mush as possible of the 300 elctrics for the dash etc .Any thoughts anyone?