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sgnas

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Posts posted by sgnas

  1. Admittedly a much older design of engine, but I filled mine with petrol by mistake.

    It ran with no problem for a few miles and it was only when I worked out that the reason the diesel had not foamed much on filling that I realised what I had done.

    Dropped most of the tank into drums, drove to a different fuel station and refilled. 

  2. Glad someone understands how personal taxation works.

     

    8-10 years ago I added up all the PAYE, NIC, DUTY, VAT etc of a work colleague vs their expected return (education, healthcare, services, infrastructure) to prove that if you have 2 kids in education you are not a net tax payer until you earn substantially more than the average wage. If you are unfortunate enough actually need to make use of the health service for a serious health issue it is entirely possible that you will never be a net tax payer…..

    • Like 1
  3. I have the same issue, everything in the hedge produces sharp pointy bits.

    You can get solid tyre/wheel assemblies. They are spendy.

    Kenda and maxxis do puncture resistant tyres with Kevlar. The standard ones have very little in the construction compared to a car tyre.

    Some take the same size tyre as a haybob, but would be impossible to fit by hand.

    If you happen to have the right size tyre/wheel they are the same as go cart wheels. You can get 2 part wheels. These don’t stop punctures but make patching the tube much easier.

    You can get a thick rubber band to line the tyre. The thorn then has to be long to get to the inner tube.

    I had access to quality rubber and made my own bands. Not 100% puncture proof but has dramatically reduced incidence.

  4. The Turner ones solved all my problems. 
     

    I had a massive amount of vibration after changing the 25+ year old mounts during a chassis change.

    Couldn’t believe it was just due to new mounts. Had the timing belt changed and timing reset after the starter motor got shaken to pieces. That improved things a bit.

    Changing the mounts to Turners was night and day difference.

    glencoynes may be good but they are rarely in stock!

  5. When we first got the 110 and my wife was using it as the family wagon I made sure she not only knew how to change the wheel but could physically do it.

     

    Currently she has an Alhambra with self sealing continental runflats. Only one manufacturer in that size, the car comes with no provision for a spare, no jack, no wheelbrace, no pump, no gunk.

    We have never worn a tyre out!

    1 punctured in the tread and not self sealed.

    1 barely detectable leak in the sidewall, but flat in 4hrs.

    2 rapidly perished in the sidewall.

     

    I will be looking for a car that has space for a spare next time round.

  6. I don’t understand why people put so much time and effort ( on a 90, 110 is a bit more involved ) into not breaking the body down to man portable size pieces at the start of the re-chassis process. 
    The improved access to axles, engine etc must save time in the long run. Then there is the inevitable remedial work on seatbox, battery box etc which is easier when it is in pieces. 

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    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  7. When you see what 2nd hand Ifors go for you'll be surprised to find out what they cost new.

    I have a friend who's dad uses the trailers pretty much each week for building materials.

    Admittedly he really looks after them but he trades them in every 2 years ish and makes minimal loss.

  8. I put one in my trolley last year, did another lap of the store and put it back. I'd just bought a Fiskars X27 so I thought why do I need yet another splitting axe?

    <thumbs up emoticon> for the Fiskars X27 btw!

    I bought a Fiskars 2 years ago.

    Got to be about 1/3 of the effort to split than the maul it replaced.

  9. all the new bits are listed in http://lrcat.com/#31/4/52605

    what's wrong with the existing stub axle, if lightly scored, just polish out the scores with emary paper of varying grades.

    The inside inner race is stuck tight.

    Slit it in 3 places with a dremel, still stuck.

    Run a weld bead around it to heat it, still stuck.

    Left it in the freezer overnight, still stuck.

    For the sake of £50 of parts I'd prefer it mobile while I faff around at my leisure to get the race off.

  10. I need to rebuild a front stub axle on a 1998 110 (although the parts will be the same on most similar aged axles)

    Apart from wheel bearings, locknuts washers etc. which I carry spares of already, what do I need.

    List so far.

    Stub axle ftc3154

    Seal ftc5268

    Thrust bearing ftc56

    Needle bearing ftc861

    Gasket ftc3648

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