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hl1977

Getting Comfortable
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Posts posted by hl1977

    Bilstein b6 bushes

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    I have searched around (without any luck) about bushes for bilstein b6 defender rear shocks. The upper bushings on my truck are starting to disintegrate with less than a one year of usage :(. I have original bushes (NRC5593), but they are way too big. Also the bilstein uses  two-part bushing on upper eye not single thread roller style. Is there a part number or any keyword I could use to find suitable bushes?

    300tdi fan belt protection

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    I have three 300tdi defenders. All have suffered from belt squeak and chirp over the years, usually after not being used for a few months. It is always rubber debris in the belt which causes the noise. - I live by the sea an if not used the pulley surfaces rust and abrade the belt causing the rubber debris. I have tried cleaning the rubber belt grooves but it never really works. I generally do a hundred or so mile on the noisy belts, by which time the rust is all cleaned off the pulleys, fit a new dayco belt and it runs silently.

    Thanks for reply. I hope that new belt solves the problem of squealing.

    I have had one absolutely quiet belt so far, and that was 'made in PRC'. But, it broke into pieces after 15000 km / 1 year. I have used also 2 dayco belts and they both had some chirping...

    300tdi fan belt protection

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    I excluded the tensioner, as the whining stops when spraying water on the belt. After it dries out, the whining comes back. I've changed the tensioner with new one without any effect. Only thing that reduced the whining was cleaning pulley grooves from burnt in rubbery material (from belt I assume). Also the grooves of belt itself are damaged, filled with similar rubbery debris as pulley grooves. I'm still waiting for new belt after what I hope the whining stops.

    My assumption is that during driving through clay/mud holes the mush was splashed to belt. There it was rubbed into belt material and due to increased friction it melted to pulley and belt grooves. So far I had stuck viscous coupling and the fan was working all the time and air flow kept the under-bonnet area clean and I didn't got any problem with belt contamination (heard few days back, that keeping belt clean was also problem for some MB engines back in 1980ties). Anyhow, I have removed the fan in late august (driving became much quieter, no overheating even when towing 2,5 tonne trailer, fuel consumption dropped at least 0,5 l/100km - just wonderful). But there are a lot of splashes under bonnet (on top of coolant tank, on top of engine, etc etc) now. My conclusion is that removing fan, I exposed belt for dirt. But I have no experience with defender with non-stuck viscous coupling, so if I'm wrong please correct me.

    300tdi fan belt protection

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    I had to drive through several mud/clay holes lately. During that the fan belt started to screech really badly. Actually, it was almost unbearable to stay near the working motor (= extra noisy defender). Apparently there was some dirt splashed on the belt. In local garage they supported the idea, as the working face of pulleys was polished shiny. So I have spent hours to clean pulleys and placed a new belt. Bloody annoying work so thought that maybe there is something to be done to keep the belt clean? Avoiding dirt roads and mud-holes is unfortunately not an option :(

    Engine is 300tdi fitted on defender in 1995.

    Also, could someone give a short tutorial how to remove topic :blush:

    Is it normal for LT230?

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Power doesn't kill gearboxes, torque does. (Smart a%££#% comment I know....)

    The differential is not expected to have massive indifference (ie large amounts of drive to one axle and none to the other). I believe Dave (ashtrans) has stated before and its probably on a YouTube clip too that giving it some welly whilst stuck in a rut is not a good idea if one axle is flailing about whilst the other is stopped given the oiling within the differential itself does not work too well with centrifugal force (ie it throws all the oil out) and those bronze washers become a bit thin and knife edge quick and there is the potential for one of the gears to become welded to the cross-shaft, hence the advice is to use the centre difflock in such situations.

    However longevity it a bit of a hard one to work out as it depends on use of the vehicle and how little the difflock is used (or not) on low traction surfaces whilst there is rotational indifference between the front and rear propshafts.

    Simple test for me... How much play / slop do you have whilst the handbrake is disengaged, and the gearbox is in first gear and you are under the vehicle with a hand on each prop twisting them in opposite directions, now change the gearbox to forth or fifth and try again, is there much different?

    The reason for the gearchange.... Because your gearbox to transfer box input gear may be knackered too hence it may have slop induced into the three way drive system... The other thing to note is that it's reliant upon there being slop in the front and rear differential too unless you disconnect the propshafts....

    Not very scientific I know, but as the bronze washers wear there would be slop or play induced between the gears.

    Alternative solution.... Ashcroft's ATB or quaife and be done with them... Ashcroft's out of stock at present

    Thanks! If I would knew this few years ago :) Have driven a lot on icy / snowy / muddy roads with difflock un-engaged...

    Is it normal for LT230?

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    While its out who not fit one of these?

    http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/diy-rebuild-kits/lt230-rebuild-kits/hd-cross-pin.html

    At least you know it won't fail again

    Do you believe that it can withstand power, what will apply when ratchet snaps to its finger? In my case I believe that due to poor lubrication caused by water in oil the friction between ratchet and shaft became so high that they welded together.

    I have also a question about the dished thrust washers. What is the life expectancy for them under normal use? And/or is there some service recommendations about replacing intervals?

    Is it normal for LT230?

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Not sure about your choice of oil...

    If you search "lt230 oil grade" there is a discussion on one of the other forums about gl5 and gl4 and the brass cup washers that are used within the differential of the lt230

    It may have been coincidence that the washers were on their way out

    Search for "lt230 manual" as that may assist if you don't have a copy

    Rob

    I have workshop manuals from different years and all of them state that the oil should meet API GL4 or GL5. Did quick search in forums and there seem to be supporters for both. Anyway, good to know and in future I will switch to oils meeting both requirements.

    Anyhow, started taking off the t-box and hope to strip it tomorrow.

    Is it normal for LT230?

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Thanks for all the answers! The oil is GL5 trasmission oil and bolt were all marked during dismantling.

    I just identified (or at least I hope so) problematic place. Today I fixed the rear output shaft, so only front shaft was rotating. And as a result the subtle dry whistle became quite loud (and it came from the area where differential is located). With rear shaft released, I can barely hear it. So, I quess there is something wrong with the differential as it does not rotate freely as it supposed to be.

    But, I haven't dismantled the differential during rebuild, so what can be wrong with it? Water from washing could stay in t-box for 2 days max. Is this time enough to cause some kind of rusting inside? Altough, I couldn't saw any rust marks during assembly of the t-box. Do I need to take out the t-box again and check the differential or is it possible to make it work on less time consuming way? I lifted the back of truck to allow oil penetrate front part of t-box more freely but this did not make difference.

    Is it normal for LT230?

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Transfer box (lt230 prefix 22d) on my defender 300tdi has been leaking since I bought it five years ago. As it evolved to amount of 1+ liter oil per 500 km, it was time for changes. So I took out the t-box and gave it a good wash. Placed all seals between parts of casing and output shafts (from gasket kit rtc3890). During that, I didn't split any working parts. When assembling everything fitted perfectly together and no power was needed to put the box together. There were almost no visible marks of wear on ratchets or shafts. So far so good.

    During the test drive at first everything seemed OK. After ~2 miles the transfer box started to screech. Stopped the car and discovered that first output flange was very hot. Let it cool and drove slowly back. First checked the oil and found that it was water (presumably from pressure washing I did once the box was out from car) contaminated. So changed the oil, disconnected the propshafts and started to investigate. As a result I found out that:

    * high/low gear and difflock are all working.

    * output flanges are easy to turn around by hand.

    * on low gear light knackering is in the box, appearing approx. after every 1/4th of turn. It is possible to feel with hand turning output flange and also can hear it. This does not appear on normal gear.

    * within few minutes of work, the output shafts are becoming warm (but not hot). For me it seems to be too quickly.

    * engaging 4th and 5th gear there is possible to hear subtle dry whistle.

    (last two are with working engine)

    Is this normal and can I go to use the car or not? Before rebuild everything worked perfectly, but I can't swear that it did not had all these symptoms already...

    Rear pads arent clearing rust on discs

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    My discs are scored to hell as well, though fairly rust free. I find the inboard pads wear away after only a few months (5,000 miles or so) in the winter, and the resulting metal-on-metal is what had knackered my discs. New ones are on the cards, but to me this means the inner pads have plenty of pressure on them to wear out first - even though in my case it is accelerated by the wet gravel roads and the lack of disc shields.

    attachicon.gifimage.jpg

    From the image is visible, that you have removed the mud shields. I did the same and ended up changing inner brake pads at 6000-7000 km, while outer were fine. After re-installing mud shields the wear became more-less even and pads are still good after 10000+ km

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