benthegardener
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Posts posted by benthegardener
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I am trying to replace my very worn rear half shafts and drive flanges on a 1999 110 hi cap td5. Am I right in thinking the half shafts should just pull out? Mine only seem to come half way, Do I need to get a bit more forceful with them or is there something I haven't undone which I should have?
Many Thanks
Ben
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Going to try an extractor today I think and see how it goes getting the slave one out first. Not really happy about only having the one bolt. But equally not really happy having to get the drill going on the casing either.
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Slowly working through the issues on my 99 td5. I have had a leaking clutch slave cylinder, and noticed there was only one bolt (top) holding the old one in.
Ordered all the new bits.
But on taking the old one off I've discovered the bottom bolt had sheared off within the gearbox casing, no way of getting a new bolt in, no idea how long ago this might have happened, the clutch has been working as long as I've had it, 5 weeks or so.
How major a problem is only having 1 bolt?
Is that likely to be what's caused the old slave cylinder to fail?
While underneath, had another good look round and found there's only one bolt holding the bottom swivel cover on the RHS swivel. Had a poke in the hole there, something solid in there, so guessing there's a sheared bolt in that hole too.
Anyone any advice or ideas please?
Thanks in advance
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Well finally had 2 minutes to get onto this again today after speaking to alive last week. Having removed ECU, it appears I have a Disco TD5 Auto ECU fitted. Good call Landy Andy. Changing the ECU is the only option apparently. That first then onto the next job..... Thanks for advice anyway.
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Awesome will give him a call tomorrow thank you.
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Ah that would make sense. The original ECU was stolen, so maybe a disco one fitted instead.
Is there a way around it? I'm guessing yes change the ECU.
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I have recently bought a TD5 pick up which seems to have a few electrical gremlins.
Speedo not working at all. milage doesn't change, doesn't light up at night, no speed indicated
Reverse, and interior light not working.
But wierdest of all is the temp gauge which starts in the middle, at the 12 o'clock position, then as the engine runs for a bit, and gets up to temp, the gauge goes down into the blue. I also have a lumpy running engine at low revs, so does the ECU run off the same temp sensor and if so will that think the temp is high and then lowering, which would trick it into misfuelling for the engine temperature. Or will the ECU know the temperature properly off a different sensor?
Any ideas, gratefully received
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The high miler 04 one was, despite the assurances of the seller, probably one of the roughest I've ever seen. It had had welding done, a new rear cross member I suspect a front end bang at some point as there was repair work at the front. The fuel filter was suspended by the fuel lines. The engine wouldn't start. There was oil leaking everywhere. The one I'm replacing is in better condition.
Good job I bought a return train ticket, just in case!
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Have finally conceded that it might be time to upgrade the land rover to something a bit newer. I'm looking at a couple of 110 Hi Cap TD5's. Replacing an old Hi Cap with a 200tdi Disco motor in it.
I've got an old mag with a TD5 buyers guide in it, so I'm Ok more or less with what I'm looking for but I wondered what peoples experiencees were with high milers?
I have an 04 one to look at but over 215k on the clock, and two 99 ones with just over, and just under 100k on it. Don't know if I'm better going newer but higher milage, or older lower milage.
Any thoughts?
Thanks Ben
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So is the belt system different between Disco and defender then? That sounds different to
ejparrott said
"The PAS should be driven by the crank and water pump, the alternator by the PAS."
I would need to follow the disco belts wouldn't I, if they are different?
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It's a funny old conversion because I have a high turbo on it, as a defender should be, but it's definitely a 12L (Disco) engine.
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So if I bought a disco mount, that should fit the block properly?
I can then fit the correct disco alternator.
Presumably the pas pump should have a pulley on it with 2 grooves then, one to take the drive off the crank and one to drive the alternator.
I wonder if this was done as a way of fitting the air filter where it was, I think with the alternator higher it may foul where the air filter was mounted before.
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Think I've found one on ebay. Should arrive Tuesday, hopefully that'll help start to sort it out.
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I'm going to try and post a picture ERR1115 is no longer available apparently. Does anyone make an aftermarket alternator/pas pump mount? Or am I going to be better trawling breakers ebay etc
Ok This is what I've got
It's been cut away here
Closer view
Thanks again in advance for any help or ideas
Ben
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Thank you.
This is getting stranger and stranger.
The bracket assembly that the alternator and pas pump mount on seems to have been cut at some point so the alternator wont fit on. I'm guessing this is what the extra, couple of hex nuts and washers that fell out were doing, spacing out the bottom bolt. Looks like I need a new ERR1115 looking at the links posted above.
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I'm in the process of changing my screaming PAS pump when I noticed what a cobble together the alternator mounting is on the car.
I have a 12L (Disco) 200tdi in my 110 HiCap, I ve always had a slight glow from the battery light, and while removing the old pas pump today I noticed the bottom lug was snapped on the alternator. There's also bits of plates and nuts and washers making spacers in there the whole thing was a mess.
Does anyone have a picture of what a 200tdi alternator and power steering pump should look like on the engine. Also I think the belts were wrong. one belt was driving the pas only. the other the alternator and fan. Is that right?
Lastly what is the difference between the 200tdi and the 19j pas pump?
Thanks in advance for any help
Ben
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May have been better going down than up, but the tech thing above is useful.
I'm having a right old fight getting the box back in this evening. Goes so far, I can get 2 nuts started on the studs at the top but then wont go in at the bottom, any ideas? Have I put the clutch in backwards or something, or just being a bit gentle?
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Just for a bit of closure on this.
Have taken out the gearbox and transfer box etc.
Gearbox mainshaft as smooth as you like.
But also a good collection of water in the transfer box.
Been an absolute swine with floor bolts etc,
Took the opportunity and replaced the rear main seal behind the flywheel, new 130 clutch fitted up. Hopefully new box in over the next couple of evenings.
Fun and Games!
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Mainshaft worn out. I am convinced after looking in the tech archive and finding this
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6840
Make a start tomorrow then!
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Right finally back at a time when I could have a look. Stripped off the gearbox covers and found the transfer box linkages are ok, well apart from the missing pivotting clevis on the difflock linkage but i knew about that and stuck a bolt through for now while testing in the yard.
So did the gears in high and did the gears in low nothing but whirring. no drive
Difflock on and difflock off, did the gears and nothing but whirring again. no drive
Jacked up each wheel individually and tested each one difflock on and off.
Each turned the propshaft and the difflock engaged properly and locked the wheels out.
I noticed two things
When doing the front wheels the front diff is very noisy, bit like a rumbling wheel bearing noise. And much noisier than the rear.
Also the difflock lever, (by which I mean the actual bit on top of the transfer box) is definitely not going as far over into the off position as it did.
Is this indicative that something has jammed up inside? I guess the next step is to drain the transfer box and the gearbox and see what comes out?
Anyone getting any ideas yet?
I really want to get my truck back on the road asap, I really miss it, and the TD5 I have on hire seems to be doing lower mpg too.
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Are you definately getting drive to the main box? Is it possible you could have ripped the centre out of the clutch plate, or stripped the splines on the mainbox output shaft.
Dave.
I don't know. I wondered about that. There was an element of transmission clunk when pulling away before it happened so could be splines gone maybe.
Need to bite the bullet and start pulling things out I think
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My difflock lever in the cab does nothing for the difflock as half the mechanism is not there. I have used this article and copied the trick of using a bar on top of the transfer box to test what's going on.
http://www.landroverexpedition.com/technical/quick-fix-defender-diff-lock-linkage/
It definitely used to make two clicks, as this article says it should, but now only one and a half without engaging the second click. so it falls back to centre.
It was too dark tonight when I got back from work to do anything. Hopefully have another look tomorrow.
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I know we all hear about the mortal perils of driving about with the diff locked on tarmac, but has anyone actually broken something as a direct result of having the centre diff locked and if so, what let go?
All the wind up has to happen from the props outward, so if you wind up a prop or a half shaft and it subsequently breaks, you still have drive to the other axle.
So there'd be a bang, but you'd still have drive because the diff is locked.
A Catch 44, if you will.
I'm pretty sure my tyre spun off the rim because of it.
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Just came up with a theory:
suppose the car had a problem with one of the axles (diff, halfshaft, CV, hubsplines...) causing it to lose drive.
By putting it permanently in difflock, it would still be driveable and could be sold.
After fixing the difflock, it might have remained locked (don't know if you tested this) for while (allthough there couldn't have been wind-up). When it finally let go, you heard the bang and lost drive...
Might seem unlikely, but certainly not impossible...
Some more info about the current situation (i.e. driveshafts turning or not) and the exact tests done when working on the difflock might yield some answers.
I think it was sold genuinely, the guy I bought it from didn't strike me as the sort to do that. Also the difflock was off and released I think when I did it by hand underneath, because I spun the wheels one at a time after to check that it was all released.
At a bit of a loss at the mo, hoping to finish early enough to have another look tonight and check the hi lo linkage is all there.
The problem is it's a work vehicle so I can't wait forever to get it back on the road, I've got a hire Td5 at the mo but only this week at the moment
Td 5 half shafts
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
For anyone else wondering, they do just pull out. One side much easier than the other on mine. First side was very very stiff to get out at one point. The other was also surprisingly rusty on the section inboard of the oil seal too. Might be time to drain and check the rear diff oil.