[Dixon Bate issue - cycle carrier]

OK, tried one place on Friday but do not stock - suggested Indispension. There is one in Edinburgh so planning to try and look in during the week. That might at least confirm absolutely that a DB slider will fit. May end up web order.

[Dixon Bate issue - cycle carrier]

OK Thanks for the helpful confirmations.

I will go hunting for a local farm shop - or at least make enquiries. Confess to never having noticed one around Edinburgh area :-)

Help, as always, much appreciated

Malcy

[Dixon Bate issue - cycle carrier]

OK, thanks for all the responses. Seeing the pictures suggested does look as though it is not an actual Dixon Bate slider plate. Would I be right in assuming that the rack arrangement is probably standard? If so then getting a genuine DB two pin slider plate would look like being the best answer but would hate to get the plate and then find the rack was not right.

Any thoughts on the provenance of the rack then, now that the slider plate looks dodgy!

Thanks

[Dixon Bate issue - cycle carrier]

Here is picture to show. Not averse to idea of grub screws since I vvery rarely move the position.

[Dixon Bate issue - cycle carrier]

Ah, OK. The large heavy piece of metal that the towball fits to and that moves up and down on the rack being fixed into position with a large pin that slides in sideways and is retained by an R clip.

I always assumed that was its name but clearly it isn't!!

[Dixon Bate issue - cycle carrier]

Hi. Am hoping someone has a good answer!

Just fitted a MaxRaxx cycle carrier which has base that fits between towball and flange plate. Very nice strong kit but ...

There is so much vertical slack/wobble between my flange plate and the slider rack that when trying to fit the upright in place I have had to wedge a screwdriver between top of plate and rack so I can hold upright back far enough to lock the pin in place; and when all is in place the slack at the bottom of flange plate and slider bar means that it all hangs backwards more than I feel it should.

I am assuming mine is an original 21 year old Dixon Bate (but perhaps even a new one would be so sloppy).

Any ideas for a way to improve this setup? I accept it may mean getting some new towbar parts.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions

Best wishes

Malcy

[Seat belt replacement]

Thanks western

Looks like a lot of work getting all parts together - may do passenger side first so I can still drive if I hit any issues or find parts I didn't think I might need.

One question - not sure how it can be answered but ask since I do not know how to judge - should I go for brand new - genuine, or for brand new - replacement? Sometimes there is not much cost differential but sometimes there is. My instinct would be that seat belt fittings, being legal requirements, must be covered by some British standard and that I would be OK to get replacement but I don't know!!!

[Seat belt replacement]

Time has come when seat belt replacement needed for The Beastie - before either the MOT man or else "The Maker" decides they need tested in earnest. They are too worn looking, have white blotches, lost their spring back and have been shut in the door once to often.

I would like to do full replacement for both passenger and driver - inertia belts, mountings, nuts, bolts, stalk etc etc since suspect whole seat belt setup is 20 years old.

Had quick look but could not find full replacement kit for 1991 90 hardtop. Anyone got any suggestions?

If I need to buy by individual part does anyone have the part numbers I will need please!

Thanks for any suggestions

Malcolm

[Reverse lights packed up.]

My reversing light started blowing fuses. Thought it was wiring but it ended up that replacing the whole reversing light unit sorted the thing. I think 20 years of sitting in an uncompromising position weith regard to mud and water had simply done it in. Bet the new one will not last nearly as long.

Next stage is to do the same for the fog light!

[Chevron Oil]

Anyone???

[Poor cold starting - glow plug voltage]

Think I would be looking at the voltage actually at the battery posts. It may well be that your battery is only giving you 12V and that suggests it is on its last legs. You may be able to rejuvinate it with one of the intelligent chargers though.

HTH

[Chevron Oil]

Can I ask if anyone understands this. Just been to Costco to get new batch oil for upcoming oil change but they now have a different oil. It says it is a 10W-40 part synthetic oil suitable for petrol or diesel with the references ACEA A3/B3, A3/B4, AP1 SL/CF with performance level VW 505 00, MB 229 1.

Looking in my Haynes the spec for the oil in a 200Tdi is given as 5W/30 to 25W/50 to RES.22.OL.PD-2, or CCMC PD-2 or better.

From what I can see the SAE is fine and dandy but not sure how to compare the performance levels. Also not sure whether part synthetic is OK. It is currently unopened and I still have the receipt if it is not suitable.

Any help would be most appreciated.

Thanks

Malcy

[Turbo pooped?]

Well I have wiped up all around the area and pushed the bottom pipe from the intercooler fully onto the turbo unit then managed to get a 7mm socket onto the Jubilee clip and got it really well tightened up. Took off the tube from the air filter (need to get a new one since quite worn under the turbo end Jubilee clip) and other than being a bit oily it seems OK there. Looked into the air filter container and the inside of the filter is white which I think has to be a good sign. Checked for play on the turbo fan and it is minimal; plus fan seems to rotate fine.

So everything back together and it started fine, revved a bit OK. I guess the test will be driving it tomorrow.

Hopefully there will be nothing further to report and panic will be over :-) Now to order the new tubing!!

Thanks for the suggestions

[Turbo pooped?]

Last night odd engine noise when made heavy push on The Beastie - following a slightly doubtful decision to go at a roundabout rather than stopping. Got home without issue but driving today very low power especially on hills so reckoned something to do with turbo. When I looked the turbo had a lot of black oil around it and the bottom pipe going to the intercooler had blown off. There was also oil on the N/s of the rocker cover. The ribbed tube to the air filter has always been quite oily but there has not been much oil on the outside of things before - perhaps of course blown up from the pipe that came off??

Coupled it back up and drove home but by the time I was home it was almost off again.

The mechanic at one of my clients reckoned all looked like turbo had popped but before trying to order another one I thought I would ask any other opinions. Had wondered about trying to clean it all up, secure all the pipes properly and then try it for driving tomorrow but do not want to do more damage than has already happened.

Anyone with any thoughts?

Thanks

Malcy

[Transporting bulkhead]

Thanks guys. Now got much better idea of what is needed. Will try and find a suitable bulkhead then source loan of trailer!

Then the real fun begins once I get it all home -LOL

[Transporting bulkhead]

Thanks. So I would need two people and also the use of a trailer, but presumably a moderate sized one where the sides can come off and the bulkhead could be secured with ratchet straps.

[Transporting bulkhead]

I need to look out for a "new" bulkhead for The Beastie. I am clearly going to need to transport it even if I manage to find one locally (very unlikely).

I have no idea of the weight involved - so how many people to shift it, and whether I would need a trailer or could put in back of a 90.

Any suggestions would be very helpful in order to help me formulate a plan!

Thanks

Malcy

[New supply to voltmeter]

A while back I queried a low voltage reading on VDO voltmeter and there was suggestion to run new "known" feed from battery to the meter. I would now like to do this but the existing supply is via ignition switch so voltmeter only on when ignition on (saves drain). If I were to do it would I be best to run new, heavier than the original, wire to ignition switch and then also replace the wire from the switch to the voltmeter?

It was also suggested check earth so I will run a new earth lead back to battery at same time to make sure.

If not this, then how best to do?

Thanks and best wishes

Malcy

[wiper adapter (STC987) removal]

I ended up cutting a wedge out with my Dremel and then knocking off the remainder. Guess it had been there 20 years so should not grumble. New wiper blade is an eye opener!!!

Wish I had done ages ago LOL

Thanks for all the pointers

[wiper adapter (STC987) removal]

OK then. Need to get some PlusGas and will try to take care with the drilling!!

Thanks

[wiper adapter (STC987) removal]

I am trying to remove the old one which is fubar and replace with genuine new one. The passenger wiper has just lost its will to stay on the windscreen despite relocating on the adapter. Noticed the knurling was pretty much gone.

The original grub screw has rusted so cannot remove with a key so I presume only other route is to drill out.

I have sprayed liberally with WD40 and think I have got all remnants out but no sign of bit moving.

Do I just keep trying ignorant brute force or is there a trick?

Thanks

Malcy

[Reversing light issue]

Thanks for suggestions. WIll try running new wire to the light unit and see what it does. Think I will also order up a new light unit since old one is pretty manky!!

Thanks too for the suggested routing for the wire.

Malcy

[Oil capacity]

Next issue - drained oil and changed filter last weekend. 5l new oil seemed to fill it to the line on the dipstick.

Have now run the engine a while over the week and it is still sitting neatly on the N line. My book says it should take 6.75l including oil filter. Oil pressure light quite normal.

Any ideas>

Thanks

Malcy

[Reversing light issue]

Had troubles with wipers not working. Finally narrowed it down to the reversing light - why they share the same fuse heaven only knows! Have now narrowed the problem further to the length of green/brown wire connecting the light itself to the reversing switch. I have confirmed the switch itself is OK with a multi-meter. I have checked visually at the back and can see no obvious bared wire to cause the fuse to keep popping.

So two questions - first is there any way to narrow down where the problem is so I can patch in a new length of cable (assuming I can get to it); and second (assuming no real answer to the first) what is the easiest way to route a new wire to the back.

One day I will re-wire the whole rear end but would prefer not to do this right now.

Meanwhile I have simply disconnected the green/brown wire at the reversing switch so that I can use my windscreen wipers.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Malcy

[Big end gone]

Thanks for responses. The engine has 155k on the clock and I got it 5 years ago at 119k (and perhaps that was even genuine!)

If definitely had a loss of power and a going nowhere feel but will see what the garage say. Will leave them to diagnose without throwing in what the RAC guy said just in case it was a red herring. Hopefully it will not rid me of beer tokens for too long, but feel a drought approaching!