alfmech
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Posts posted by alfmech
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ok thats part of the question sorted thanks now just gotta find out where it goes
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i dont know if this will help at all but the gauge is a vdo unit the sticker on it reads 310.284/012/007 yad100760 tml-nr.bop 0214
i hope that can help someone answer my question
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sorry if this is in the wrong place but as its a hybrid defender/disco i am a little unsure where to post
i am looking to fit a gearbox oil temperature gauge and cannot find out if there is a ready made location for a sender unit on my zf4hp22 auto box or if i can fit a sender into the bottlebrush style oil cooler in place of what i assume to be a switch for a warning light
i am aware of the fact i should have brought a matching pair (gauge and sender unit) for accuracy purposes however the gauge has been sat on my shelf unused but there is no sender with it.
if there is a sender for that box or cooler that would suffice could anyone supply a part number for it please?
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it looks like a pair of those will sit in a standard defender battery box so unless anyone knows differently it looks like a pair of cxv-x is the way to go
with reguard the x-eng split charge relay isnt the whole idea of it to charge both batteries when running and isolate one when it isnt so you always have enough juice to start?
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i have a x-eng split charge relay i have had for ages was going to use it on my series but thinking it might be better served using it on this and isolating one battery just for winching and leaving the other for starting, obviously swapping them over occasionally
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our local factor seem unable to answer my question so thought i would look to experience instead
my vehicle is a 90 defender with a 300tdi auto fitted to it
its got a champion 9500lb winch fitted to it which is only going to get (i hope) very occasional use and the usual extra lights
i am looking to find a pair of heavy duty batteries that will start this 100% of the time and be able to use the winch if needed sadly i cannot afford the luxury of optima/gel batteries so have to settle for old style batteries
the problem is i have no clue which batteries i should get and local factors seem unable to help they simply offer the battery listed for the vehicle and thats it
whats the biggest/best pair of batteries that will fit in the existing seat box? that dont cost the earth
sorry if this has been posted before i did use the search but didnt find the answer
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definatly some food for thought here i havent seen a heater setup go on fleabay for less than the 150 mark thats working and complete but am still looking, i have toyed with several bodgeups involving water from engine and only ever seem to get tepid air from them, i had no idea these old lumps ran so cold i hadnt thought about using heat transfer from the exhaust, how would you best go about building a suitable heat exchanger though?
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could someone guide me through how to calculate the correct length of prop required please?
should the slip joint be approximatly halfway along its travel for this measurement?
as the vehicle has only a 2" lift (springs and shocks only) is there any need for wide angle yolks or should standards be acceptable?
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cheers for the response
the engine is definatly set back closer to the bulkhead so custom props for me
what a pain! i should have checked on this ages ago -
surely someone must know something about this issue
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i am hoping someone can give me some assistance while i still have a little hair left
the 90 i brought was part way through 2" lift and a 300tdi auto conversion/bodge it had a rear propshaft with the car that appears to have been cut and welded to fit (no idea about balancing so assume not)
the issue i have at the moment is the front prop, my closest measurements give me 700mm distance between flanges with the vehicle rested on its wheels,
i have cobbled a couple of different props together to fill the gap (a short section that is wide angled and the long section which seems to be normal landy) but still only gives about 5-10mm travel to the outer end of the splines does anyone know if any of the land rovers came with a 700mm prop, assuming the measurement is taken closed
i could use a 10-20mm spacer as advertised on a certain auction site but am unsure the amount of travel required and very dubious about using half a wide angled prop and half a standard one
or i could cut down and weld a longer prop to suit, again dubious no acess to lathe or balancing equipment
input or ideas would be appreciated in this matter
thanks
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ok still plodding along and doing a bit when time/money permits,
just wondering if there is a gearbox x-member that will fit with the auto box or if i have to mod something from another car?
this project seems never ending lol
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i would really like the eberspacher type setup but have yet to see one go for sensible money, will keep looking while i investigate the vw polo heating idea though unless someone has a eberspacher setup lurking they want to part with nudge nudge wink wink lol
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thanks for the responses
whilst i would love to get the eberspacher and heated glass i simply cannot justify the huge expense to the wife who will simly say "drive the the other car (3series BMW bleh!) if its too cold" despite the obvious arguments in favor of land rover in snow
the polo heater sounds interesting can anyone shed any light on that for me? or link some pics?
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i have owned my chilly old 1964 88" ragtop 2a for a few years now and have still been unable to get any heat from the so called heater and now its approaching winter again i thought i better crack on and sort something
i was wondering if anyone had found and effective yet inexpensive way of demisting and pilot defrosting short of applying a naked flame to the pilot and removing the glass
i looked into the erbespacher type heater units but was soundly scared off of them due to horrific prices and have yet to find anything else
input would be greatfully recieved
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i think i have this problem sorted now thanks,
timing was checked and found to be ok
fuel lines were checked and system re-bled
vacuum pipes checked
air cleaner box bodged into place with length of flexi hose
turned the key and it worked so unless i got visited by the mechanical fairys it must have been fuel orientated
what a relief to hear that diesel come to life like it meant it though
thanks again for the input guys
off to do some wiring and plumbing on it now i think
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hi guys
i am looking for some advise with a potentially silly problem i have with my project defender, brought it as an incomplete non running wreck that previous owner had begun a conversion to shoe horn a 300tdi from a disco add an auto box and changed fuel pump to a non edc one with the 3 wire connection on top which i assume would be of a throttle pot in its previous install.
having rebuilt most of the wiring loom that went up in flames when i first tried to start it i have finally changed to fresh diesel and tried again just to know i have a running wreck would inspire me to complete it,
so far i have done as follows
drained cleaned and refilled the tank
drained and refilled fuel filter(currently using old one just for test purposes)
replaced stop solenoid on back of pump
turned key and after several attempts there was life.....ish
it will start willingly enough but refuses to idle, if i try to pick up revs it hesitates and then picks up and seems almost to be a delayed reaction between moving linkage(by hand i havend modded for cables either throttle or kickdown)
and generally sounds as ragged as hell.
i admit this is a barebones effort so might be something very simple i have missed there is no air box/snorkel on yet just the u-section pipe before the turbo, cooling system is fine oils are fine instant oil pressure intercooler is connected
can someone please put me out of my misery have i got something wrong or have i got a duffer? i realise there is an awful lot left to do but this is just soul destroying to me and i am not clued up enough to figure out the problem
thanks
what a pain! i should have checked on this ages ago
heating a chilly 2a
in Series Forum
Posted
ok so i brought a d3l eberspacher unit from a guy on that auction site everyone keeps on about, it has turned up and although fairly compact its still bigger than expected so time for a change of plan.
has anyone here fitted one of these to a 88" IIa soft top and if so where is the most sensible place to mount it?
i was thinking of behind the seat bulkhead knock up a plywood cover to prevent mashing it when i fill the car up with the usual carp and then trying to find a way of feeding the ducting through and connecting to the original square style heater box on the bulkhead so i can still use the demisters and floor heaters, good idea?
the obvious flaw in my plan is how do i route the ducting causing minimum carnage and heat loss? do i go through the floor then through battery box (straight through back to fron of it) along the tunnel and in or is there a better way i havent thought of yet
i could just let it heat the rear of the car but it will i guess take forever to defrost the front of the car (though i would have nice warm tools to use when i break the landy next)
is there a better location for the heater? maybe in the footwell though that seems a little dodgy with people jumping in and out always kicking it
input would be appreciated