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Kobold
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Posts posted by Kobold
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That's what I ment with not being offensive, I'm not familiair with African wildlife but wild cats that are sniffing trees and allow tourist vehicles at point of reach, red game that easely steps aside within 20 meters of a predator, it looks quite off to me. I do not mean to be ignorant but i'm stunned in disbelief of animal behavior.
In Holland, if a deer or roe spots a human within 200 meters it retreats, their predators (wolves) don't show up at all, all you will find are footprints.. (nothing ment wrong but it stuns me!)
My view might be clouded by the tourist safari we know in the Netherlands, there happens what i describes in my first post, and I absolutely disagree with that.
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Cool! or not? Depends on the point of view I suppose.. these sort of safari's make my toe's curl..
The animals seems to be quite domesticated, so there shouldn't be no animal abuse of wildlife, I suppose..
If those animals are domesticated refugees / outcasts / orphans this is a great way to introduce tourists to the local wildlife!
I'm not the kind of person to point my finger but without a context this sends a double message.. no offense ment!
I love wildlife, I'm often out in our nature, I also hunt, that's why 'abnormal' animal behavior sticks out like a sore thumb to me..
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On 4/6/2021 at 11:20 AM, Snagger said:
Losing that much oil should produce some smoke that’d be visible at low speed or standing. The conditions under which the smoke is thickest will give a lot of information. If it’s on start up and initial idle, then it tends to be the valve stemn seals or guides, but if it’s worse after starting at idle or on overrun, then it’s more likely bores or rings.
Well.. that's the thing really, I do drive frequently drive behind her 90 but no visible smoke or smell.. no oil on the driveway, no visible leaks, I'm stooped..
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On 4/6/2021 at 12:57 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
What make are all the shiny new ignition parts?
The standard Lucas components from Paddock for a 2.25P
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27 minutes ago, Wytze said:
If you would like, i could come round and have a listen..
That would be very kind of you! I have no idea how far away you're from me but I guess you figured that out already!
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Ok.. thing is.. I'm taking up too much projects.. which doesn't make me a full fledged cursing anyway..
This one is degrading on the parking lot for too long so something has to be done with it..
It's a worn down, beat up stripped down Dakar kitcar, with bashed polyester and the steeringcolumn at the passenger side...
We v'e got a Rover 3,5l V8 engine lingering around, a quite fresh driveline and a Disco1 to canniballize..
Let the cursing begin!
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24 minutes ago, Snagger said:
it occurred to me that the brake servo vacuum is drawn from below the carb on these older petrol engines (I’m more used to 12J and Tdi engines). Try removing the servo vacuum hose from the connection to the induction system and solidly blanking that port to see how the engine behaves - if the hose or servo are leaking, the engine will run very lean.
That's worth a try! Thank you for the tip!
As far for the oil mystery, the cylinders have not been re-bored, neither the pistons nor the pistonrings have been replaced, I've suggested it to the mechanic but he dis-encouraged me as het told me they were just fine, and I shouldn't replace stuff if it wasn't worn or broken
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That might be something I've overlooked, it is a Lucas type with the electronic insert.
It has a vacuum advance, the tube could well be leaking or porous.
I'm not sure if it has advance weights.
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It actually runs better on LPG as on petrol in fact, due to the 10% methanol that's mixed in on the E95 we only use E98 petrol.
But either LPG or E98 it won't get the engine run properly.
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If this is posted in the wrong realm please feel free to replace it to the correct one..
Thing is, the head of my '85 2.25l p 90 has been overhauled, new cam, rockers, valves, hardened valve seats (for LPG is it's main fuel), distribution chain & sprockets, waterpump internals, the whole shish-kabam..
Also a new electronic distributor instead of the dreaded ignition points and a fresh high powered coil.. (and new leads & plugs of course)
But it keeps under performing and lacking power, like it's running on 3 cilinders when the engine becomes loaded, it has been back to the workshop for 3 times to have it re-timed and the valves adjusted, but after a week or 4 (that's about 800 km / 500M) it runs stable but poorly.
There is another issue, that the engine is leak free, doesn't smoke while driving or depressing the throttle but I've to add almost half a liter oil every week or 2, should I consider this acceptable?
The cilinders do around 8 bar compression as I was told, and that is well within the limit.
I can keep on going back to the garage were it has it's regular maintenance and I do understand the valves have to be re-adjusted every 20K,
The valves had been run in and re-adjusted on intervals (has been @ 1, 5, and 10K)
Can any of you enlighten me what the source of this hassle can be?
kind regards,
Peter
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By using a switch (preferably a solenoid) that changes the leads from parallel to series, doubling the battery capacity at 12V, and that is why they should be of the same amps.
At normal driving the batteries are in series and evenly loaded, then when you turn on the winch, the 2nd battery is switched from series to parallel and the winch and solenoids are powered the correct voltage.
When you switch off the batteries return in their series state, an get both charged.
To avoid 24V leakage to the car's electric's, it might be wise to connect a voltage regulator between the + of the genuine battery and the 12v electrics tough.
That's how I planned to connect a 24V Ramsey in my 90....
With my rusty knowledge of electrics should this be a feasible solution, please prove me wrong!
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The Landy has been out to the guys in Hoogezand and been fitted with a full inox exhaust from headers on.
You can wait while they're at it, several mufflers are tried to fit the tone it should humm, from whispermode to That's definitively too loud.
Sounds good, looks good but the main reasonsfor fitting this one are that SS 304 is more resistant against the acidic fumes from the LPG gasses and due to the under-build LPG tanks they've choosen an alternative route to avoid them
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At the beginning of the year I've acquired a 2.25l petrol 90" from '85 for my beloved.
So far the thing has been fitted with a LPG system, there is a stainless steel exhaust from front to aft tied under it, the ladder frame MOT technical restored and after replacing the radiator again it came with a new MOT.
Which is all pleasant, well and fine.
So, cosmetic it's a very cool car, but it has the technical effect that the mechanical maintenance status <80% .
Plans so far ready and time at hand (means = threshold factor) for the following: total strip, chassis sandblasting, x-member replacement (rotten to the core) welding, 2nd sandblasting (welds), flame galvanizing, bodysuit and build from here.
Aluminum sheet metal malleate after annealing, rather repair than replace from vintage standpoint.
Straight forward so far ... Now the snag ...
The Laro we have bought has a plate indicating that the vehicle is the 1st '90 that has been imported in Switzerland ..
Has this any value to the car as it is a novelty?
The question is how to deal with it because our approach has been quite shifted from midlife update program to "not change if unnecessary"
a fresh perspective on this please ...
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Why should you? 24V winches uses half the amps of 12V
Add an extra battery, connect this in serie to the other, connect the mass cable to the original - pole and the mains to the +pole of extra battery. snag in here is that the battery's should be of same amps.
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As I'm preparing to check up the fluids of my 1985 90 I'd look for the right fluid for the transfer box, and here I became somewhat confused.
As my Haynes workshop handbook states it should be filled up with SAE 80-90EP GL4 or higher,
I still have 3 bottles unopened 80W-90 GL5 gearlube universal transmission oil in my garage.
Then I googled on this subject and the answers are somewhat opposite to each other.
The first answer I found that it should not be used as it may be agressive on the brass parts, as the other states
Land Rover currently has commercial arrangement with Texaco/Chevron that leads it to recommend a Texaco/Chevron MTF94 fluid. From the freeback we have received and read on this Forum and elsewhere, we feel it’s a little too viscous (5W30 or 70W80) to give the best results. Nonetheless you should use it in preference to ATF if your choice is limited to the two.However, there are better alternatives such as the fully synthetic MT75D gear oil however rather than simply plug MT75D I’ll give pointers to what you should look for when seeking alternatives to ATF or MTF94.
Firstly, the lubricant must have the original 5W20 low viscosity of ATF fluids to give minimum gear drag. However, it MUST also be formulated only from fully synthetic base stocks since these will have a much higher lubricant film strength so as not to be squeezed out of those all important high pressure contact areas where wear might occur. This, and the low viscosity, has the added benefit of reducing friction which lowers transmission noise and improves economy.
It must also be highly shear stable and able to maintain its optimum working viscosity over a very wide temperature range. This and a very, very carefully matched coefficient of friction (probably the most critical parameter) will ensure that it dramatically improves gear shifting in LT77 and R380 boxes (especially from cold).
It is the improved shear stability and higher film strength that enables synthetic gear lubricants to outlast their plain mineral counterparts by up to 5 times. However, we err very much on the cautious side and recommend only a doubling of drain intervals.
Note that unlike engine oils, gear oils do not have combustion by-products building up in them, nor do they suffer the higher temperatures of engines, so extending drain intervals is entirely acceptable if the lubricant is of the highest performance and the increase is modest. The exception to this would be if the gear oil were contaminated, perhaps by water or mud during deep wading, though this is unlikely. If the oil is contaminated in this way it MUST be changed immediately, regardless of its formulation.
LT230 Transfer Box (Land Rover 90 & 110, Discovery, Range Rover)
That’s the problems of the LT77 and R380 boxes solved, but what about the LT230 transfer box to which these are commonly mated?
You should NOT use ATF, MTF94 or MT75D in an LT230 TRANSFER box. It must use a thicker gear oil such as EP90 (monograde), EP80W90 (multigrade which is better for cold starting lubrication on winter mornings) or EP75W90 (typically fully synthetic giving the best lubrication of all). This is the same lubricant that you should use in your axles and you should look for an API GL5 specification for best protection.
Borg Warner Chain Drive Transfer Box (Range Rover)
The only transfer box from Land Rover where ATF was originally recommended is the BORG WARNER chain drive box as fitted to Range Rover vehicles from around 1989 onwards. Again, type DIII is the best grade currently available but guess what, these Borg Warner boxes suffer from wear around the chain and sprockets!! Another application for a fully synthetic MT75D type solution, we feel.
LT95 & LT85 (Land Rover 90 & 110, Range Rover)
Very early 90 and 110’s were fitted with either LT95 4-speed (also fitted to early Classic Range Rovers) or LT85 5-speed gearboxes.
These boxes are very robust and when mated to engines in standard tune are relatively unstressed. Consequently, both boxes can be filled with a 15W50 or 20W50 engine oil (API SG/CE or ACEA A2-96/B2-96).
So my question is, is it safe to use the GL5 oil in the transferbox instead of GL4?
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SS 409 is magnetic and does rust on the surface.
It's more easy to bend, high heat resistant and durable, and a bit cheaper than SS304.
Also known as Nirox
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For the Dutch and North-western German forum users:
I've fitted my Dodge W200 with a 309 SS exhaust by these guys: EPS uitlaten in Hoogezand
It came with a 3' silencer, it had a deep subdued rumble like a ship when idle and on low revs, and sounded like the ships horn roaring at 4000 rpm
It was designed trough the backside bumper, when cold they where flush with the bumper, warm they protruded about 3 cm
If i remember well it costed me 1200 guilders (€550)back in 2001
But they do anything, I've found also a Defender 110 on their site
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The wiring loom I found fantastical simple, the great idea is what isn't there can't break down!
The add-ons which are build in professionally mostly make sense too but there are very much self proclaimed electric engineers who come up with dodgy improvised solutions
Till now I haven't decided what will fill up the gap in the dash, SWIMBO (because it's HER 90)came up with a solution: a nautical compass, it makes at least more sense to her than a Amps meter (which doesn't tell her anything)
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I've converted to LPG, and those fumes are more acidic than petrol,so I'm looking out for a stainless replacement too.
I've found a parts pusher who's selling complete set's for my '85 90 for 375 pounds incl. VAT, does not seem to be expensive I think.
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I haven't seen a decent AC/DC TIG-inverter under 3000,- yet so that's also out of my reach..
(and I wouldn't trust Chinese import, that stuff is meant to be sold, not to be used)
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I can't make up if the Tig set you mention is AC-DC or DC only, in that case it's impossible to weld aluminium with it.
The price is nice though
Edit: something went wrong here, it has been posted 3 times
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I can't make up if the Tig set you mention is AC-DC or DC only, in that case it's impossible to weld aluminium with it.
The price is nice though
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I can't make up if the Tig set you mention is AC-DC or DC only, in that case it's impossible to weld aluminium with it.
The price is nice though
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@ Inaine: It's a basic rodwelder, but it has the possibility of scratch TIG, the're no knobs to fiddle with, just on / off, amps and rod / TIG switch. gas is hand adjusted.
If Ruuman would like to experiment with TIG, the torch, gastank and PRV have to be bought separate.
It's mainly for pushing rods, but it does that very well up to 3,25 mm and 8mm steel.
This inverter takes max. 16A, delivers 150A, it plugs in a socket, and all trade has it's price, this man's budget is limited and I try to suggest a solution.
Kemppi has a great reputation, I use those inverters for 20 years with full satisfaction.
They weld like a dream, and if mine ever breaks down, I'll buy myself a new one!
Highlights of our safari at Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge
in Getting out and about
Posted · Edited by Kobold
These were caught on wildcamera in januari near a field I work:
https://youtu.be/YMIzpnK_aNc