pitbull63
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Posts posted by pitbull63
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Had a look at the rear light clusters today and the soldering iron will be out tomorrow as they,re as bad as the dash wiring with twisted wires being the order of the day!
Going to get saving for a new loom me thinks
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I take it you don't have a standard engine fitted then? As the key doesn't normally turn off the engine. So that might be part of your problem if you have replaced the ignition switch? As standard you have to pull the engine stop cable.
Standard 2 1/4 petrol,electronic ignition and Weber carb but its never had a pull stop.Something else I,ll have to look into.Cheers
Would a toggle switch do as a temporary measure for a stop mechanism?
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Just remembered its electronic ignition so I,m going to have a look to see how thats wired tomorrow.
Had a quick look at the rear light wiring tonight and its been rewired like the dash so I,ll start from scratch tomorrow with things there and see how it goes.
Thanks for your help mate
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As some may remember I have been sorting the mouse nest that was the wiring loom on my 88" SWB.
Well all connections are now soldered up,proper instrument pod fitted,and a dash.
It starts,runs great and all the lights work now including the brake lights after I fitted a new switch.
I was chuffed as until I went out in it last night to fuel up and when I pulled up in the garage it wouldn,t turn off with the key!
A quick think and I sussed out all is ok when the lights are off but the headlights seem to complete the ignition circuit!I,ve also since discovered that the front side lights come one when I brake too!
So its back to the drawing board
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That's fine using the vehicle as a daily driver. How would you do that when you're away living from the vehicle for six months ?
I did work at one tme whith a coupole of ex toerags, both insisted that the best way was to leave the car unlocked with the car full of what looked like junk...Just like the inside of my Defender. LOL
Hey thats not junk in my Landy!Its stuff I will need.....................maybe......................one day
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only problem with that is £5.40 later, and your walking to work...
Never even crossed my mind.
Good reason for sharing ideas/experience on here though
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ots not hard to fix. there is a seperate fuse for the heater behind the dash on the wire from the fusebox. in a inline fuse holder. has this gone? if not just take a fresh live from the ignition live side of the fusebox to the switch and then to the heater.
Thats what I,ve ended up doing Woody.
Got a cracking colour wiring diagram via the lightweight owners site that shows the heaters wiring and then went from there.
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Sounds stupid I know but apart from a few other little tricks I,ve started to remove the steering wheel off of my series on a night!
A ball ache at times but every little helps
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Superb Swifty
Just so happens I have recently bought a tap set for another job that I did on a custom bike I built so I,ll get stuck in as soon as
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Sorry to hear about this mate
Always thought my series was a little less likely to be taken than a 90 but now I,m worried.
Hope they get the scum and dish out some proper justice instead of the usual slap on the wrist
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The only stupid question is the one that isn't asked...
Thats deep
Anyone enlighten me on how I could do it please?
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Hopefully found what I needed.Google is my friend
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Been looking at the two wiring diagrams I have got and neither have any wiring in place for the heater blower !
So ,has anyone got a picture of the wiring from the fusebox to through the switch to the blower please?
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Stupid question but would it be possible to change the front oil seal on a petrol series 3 lump without splitting the engine?
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Tracked it down, it seems that this engine has been converted to take the P6 short nose pump. That means £70 for a pump rather than £35 - blast!
OUCH!
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Started the wiring today as I,ve managed to get my mitts on just about all the dash parts now.
Rather cold out there today so I,ve jacked in after a lot of head scratching and but slow progress is being made
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Nope, checked that for piccies before. Tried Craddocks too but they have no pics at all! I ordered a STC1611 as people on other forums said it was probably right, turns out it's not. No fault of theirs but as all the parts places claim to need to know the age of the RR the lump is from I can't just order the right one.
Tried to google it as no doubt you will have and no luck at all mate.
Think ejparrot will be right and that something should show up with the engine number or you,ve got a modded one one.
Know it sounds stupid but does the plumbing look bodged at all?
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Cheers mate.Will do
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OK Snagger
I,ll give that one a go on Wednesday.Cheers
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I,m running 235 Cooper STT tyres on my 88" series 3 and I was wondering what the tyre pressures should be set at?
Its running unladen,mostly local trips,and occasional off-road/motorway use.
Cheers
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Would do mate but at this moment in time I,m having to do all my mechanic-ing at the side of a main A road so its not quite as easy as I,d like it to be.I also found that one of the studs has been drilled right through the manifold and a nut/bolt been put in there the head of the bolt sitting inside the manifold then a thin nut holding that tight before the flange bolts up.
So I reckon I,ll be trawling e-bay in the near future
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Took the bull by the horns and stripped the carb today.Cleaned it all,reassembled and found that the throttle bars had previously been wrongly put together at the carb end.
Also resealed the exhaust at the manifold and took the old girl a run.Quieter,picks up quicker and is more responsive
.Got to buy a new exhaust manifold as one stud is snapped and wouldn,t budge but all in all I,m happier with the outcome
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Thanks for that.I think I know where things need to be now and I,ve got a bottom dash to pick up next week so hopefully things will get sorted then.
Thanks to those that helped
Anyone remember Battlestar Galactica?
in Getting out and about
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Thats a cool picture mate.
Much better than B.G