[chaging visous coupling]

2 and a half hours later... i wounder how he / she is getting on.........

If its anything like the experience i had, it will involve grinding off the manifold/downpipe studs!

[Advice & help required please?]

The ECU loom starts by the lhs footrest, so it is fairly straight forward to unbolt the ecu and collect the loom to mount under the dash - somewhere

[Cleaning engine parts!]

Regarding the dizzy cap and rotor arm, i have been after some 'genuine' one's. the rotor arm i got from famous four seems to be the real deal, but the dizzy cap seems odd, it came in a Lucas box but the cap is black without any lucus details like the one i'm currently using. Can anybody confirm that if its advertised as a lucas and come in a lucas box and is black its ok even if its missing the lucas detailing?

[Borg Warner Transfer Box Lube]

Hi, thanks for the advice. i have changed the oil to ATF and checked the viscous coupling. All seems to be working fine. Since this debacle i have downloaded and printed out one of the LR Workshop manuals, not much ink in the printers at work now so hopeful no more POL disasters!!

[Borg Warner Transfer Box Lube]

Doh Haynes get it wrong again, definitely need ATF in there, don't know what wrong oil will do but not any good i fear. Get it changed pronto me thinks.

One of many mistakes I think I am still finding LT95s with EP80/90 in them when they take engine oil only !!! So far I have bought 3 all filled with wrong oil, so all have a duff oil pump and knackered bearings !!

Thanks for the info Chris, as you mentioned, i will be changing the oil pronto!! I dont like the sound of a duff pump and bearings as i only did the front o/p bearing and VC a few months ago

[Borg Warner Transfer Box Lube]

Hi Folks,

i have been reading the thread about engine oil and it got me thinking about lubes. When i changed the viscous coupling in my BW transfer box i looked in my haynes manual and filled it up with 80W EP oil. i have since heard that ATF Dextron II is recommended by ashcroft transmissions. First does anyone if the ATF DII is correct and secondly will dropping the 80W EP oil and flushing, then refilling with ATF leave any long standing problems. Thanks in advance for taking the time out to answer my question.

P.S. Yes i do feel potentialy stupid and up till now i've trusted Haynes

Regards

HMNS

[Paddocks - Very unhappy]

I having spent about a grand + at Paddocks, i can say the best approach is if you cant find it on the web site ring Famous Four. All goods bought via the website have been trackable via the email notification and arrived in one piece. The only problem i have found with the website is that it does not notify the customer about nil stock!!

[Brakes & Pressure Control Release Valve Diagnostics....]

Hi Fella's,

Thanks for taking the time out to offer me some advice. Just got to find some new calipers without breaking the bank, fortunatly its at the time off year when my other half is soooooo understanding

Merry Crimbomas and a Happy 2008

Roly

[Brakes & Pressure Control Release Valve Diagnostics....]

Hi everybody,

Having just spent some time overhauling the braking system, imleft with a few questions that i hope somebody has come across already? Starter for 10:

Is there anything i can do about elonggated holes in the calipers for the brake pad retaining pins?

Number two now the grey matter is running:

Does removing the brake disc shields reduce braking efficiency in anybodies experiance?

And last but not least:

What are the symptoms of a broken or failing pressure control release valve (only bit i have not replaced !)?

Many thanks in advance for reading and even better if anybody has any words of wisdom

Roly

[Heater Fan Motor]

My motor is running slower than it should on all settings in proportion to the setting

Is it just the resistor pack that needs changing or is it the motor?

Cheers

Jim

(P.S will need to do something very soon as my nads are freezing off every time i drive it :-) )

If the motor is running slower than it should be AND you have aircon the heater resistor pack may have been moved to the engine bay and will now be in the form of air cooled coils (which rust easily!), this makes it easier to change and diagnose. Otherwise the resistor pack is situated inside the heater motor body and is relativly accessable.

Roly

[Heater Fan Motor]

I NEED to change my heater fan motor (wish i'd done this in the summer)

Has any one changed one on a 89 Rangie?

What do i have to take out to get to it?

How long did it take you?

Is it a one man job or will i need two pairs?

Cheers

Jim

Hi Jim,

I have done the resistor pack on the motor whilst removing the air con system on a 93 RRC. The time and difficulty will depend on wether you have air con fitted? Basically the job involves removing the passenger dash panels and front panels by the heater controls (for ease of access). the motor can be then accessed via the passenger footwell. I have (fortunatly) not had to remove the whole motor but i hope this is of some help to you.

Roly

[Replace a knacked Borg Warner with a LT230?]

Hi Folks,

Thanks for all the advice, it all helped shape a way forward. I bought and fitted a new viscous coupling and all is well for now! Again many thanks. Adios

[Replace a knacked Borg Warner with a LT230?]

Hi,

Its me again with the knacked borg warner transfer box. A possible solution i have come up with is to replace the BW with a LT230 instead of the ashcroft route. Has anybody done this, is it feasible or do i just need to cough up the cash for an ashcroft BW? thanks in advance for taking the time to read this and hopefully leave so words of advice.

[RRC sounds bad on full lock at low speed]

That's SO land rover isn't it?

You can just imgaine the scene at asssembly:

"'ere guvnor this transfer box knob won't fit"

"don't worry son the box probably wasn't made right- just bodge something"

"well i've got one of these old style knobs that seems to work"

"yeah that'll do, ths thing only costs £40k, customers can't expect everything to work properly"

Hi Chap's and chapettes (well you never know who is looking!) i have taken on board all the above advice (thank you very much) and i have a BW transfer box and a selector lever without the manual diff selection available. Is ashcroft the only recommended supplier of recon transfer boxes? I take it that their advice on replacing the whole box if the viscous coupling is seized is a good course of action? Any pitfalls to a DIY transfer box swap?

[RRC sounds bad on full lock at low speed]

Is it ticking or a scuffing tyre? It could be (if you have one that is!) that the viscous coupling has seized.

To check, jack up one wheel and try and rotate it by hand. It should require a fair amount of effort but it will turn slowly. If it spins freely or wont turn at all then the viscous coupling is shot.

Hi,

Thanks for the advice, i now need a new viscous coupling! Atleast im getting a good working knowledge of my RRC

[RRC sounds bad on full lock at low speed]

Hi Deano,

Thanks for the advice regarding the stiffness of the cv joint. I don't suppose anyone knows if it is possible that the cause of the noises can be due to a dodgy front differential? Thanks in advance for any help.

[RRC sounds bad on full lock at low speed]

hi all, i have recently bought a 93 RRC and started to sort out all the small jobs that need doing to get it through the MOT and keep me happy. I had to replace the swivel house seals and decided to replace the cv joints whilst i had them out. When every thing was back together i noticed an unhealthy ticking/clunk coming from the front right hub when performing a low speed full lock turn to the left and right. i have checked the steering lock bolts on the swivel housing are correct, (according to haynes manual). i have checked the wheel bearings and they have a small amount of play. this evening i replaced the original cv joint to see if that stopped the noise to no avail ! i cannot remember hearing the noise before i changed the original cv joint (but my hearing isnt the best) and now i cant get rid of it. For information the new cv joint is an after market item costing approx £30 - mail order. when i checked it before fitting and after removal it seems stiff to move, which i thought was normal, is it meant to be stiff and the noise is a bedding in process? Unlikely i know but i have run out of sane ideas!! Any advice will be gladly received as i am at a bit of a loss. HELP