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wizard

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Posts posted by wizard

    Wot No Boost ????????

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    A partially blocked exhaust might inhibit the turbo.

    I checked this as best I could. Plenty of crud coming out the pipe when reved up and a good flow on idle. The exhaust down pipe has plenty of exhaust sealant on it so it looks if it was taken apart at some point.

    I'll take the injector diaphramm out when i get a chance and check it for holes / splits.

    wizard

    Wot No Boost ????????

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Hi All

    A few years ago i bought a 200 Tdi Defender 110.

    The turbo was a bit noisy when i got it but it still ran ok, so i wasnt to bothered about it, although it did struggle a bit on hills.

    A few months ago i decided to check the boost pressure, and turn it up a bit. anyway i had 0.5 bar boost no matter what i did with the waste gate actuator, so i concluded the turbo must be shot, because it made some alaming screeching noises when you booted it.

    I fitted another turbo this weekend and the boost pressure is the same 0.5bar ! The guage I am using is a good quality one so I trust the reading.

    The waste gate moves freely when disconnected from the actuator and i took the exhaust manifold off the check that the waste gate is actually doing its job.(it looks ok)

    The intercooler and pipe work is free from leaks and If I take the top intercooler hose off there is tons of air coming out when the engine is reved up..

    So now i am stumped, where am i losing boost pressure.

    Regards

    wizard

    Intercooler options

    in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)

    Posted

    Hi All

    I am planning on fitting a big intercooler to my 200Tdi Defender shortly.

    The turbo is on its way out, so the plan is to fit one I have off a 300 tdi and stick in a big intercooler at the same time.

    Someone must have done this at some point so my question is what intercooler did you use and does any one know what space is available in front of the radiator.

    I will take off my bull bar, winch and grill tomorrow, if time allows to have a measure up.

    Please dont suggest fitting an allisport or similar because is am far to tight to spend £300-£400 on something that will bolt straight in !!!!

    Regards

    wizard

    D1 Body lift guide

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted

    Just to add on from Tel's D2 guide here is my guide to fitting a body lift to a disco 1

    Regards

    wizard

    Installing a Body Lift.

    A basic guide for a Land Rover Discovery Tdi

    A body lift is not as straightforward as it may seem. You need to do a bit more than put in a set of spacers under the body mounts. This is a basic guide to lifting the body on a Discovery and can be use for other lifts as and when required.

    The first job you need to do is replace the five flexible rubber brake lines.

    There are two on each front wheel and one over the back axle.

    If you install a two-inch body lift I would recommend having plus 4 inch extended brake lines fitted.

    Below is a list of “other” parts required to do the job.

    10 body spacers

    10 long bolts (3/8 unf x 6 inch long) or m10x150

    4 rear floor support spacers

    4 extended body tie rods

    2 radiator mounts

    2 rear bumper brackets- not included

    2 front bumper brackets. - not included

    A few days before you begin your body lift its advisable to spray the mounting bolts with a good quality penetrating oil.

    Begin with taking off the bumpers, or just the plastic end caps if you want to lift the bumpers at a later date. Bear in mind that the bumpers are attached to the chassis so once you have lifted the body you will have a 2-inch gap between the body and bumper.

    Remove the 4 body tie rods; these attach the seat belts to the chassis.

    Slacken off the steering column bolts; don’t remove the bolts, as the splines on the shaft will only need to move about 10mm as the body is lifted.

    Undo and remove the 5 body mounting bolts on one side, and remove the nuts on the bolts on the other side (leave the bolts in position)

    With the aid of a Hi Lift jack begin to lift the side with the bolts removed. Periodically check that no electrical wires etc are being pulled out of place; also keep an eye on the air filter pipe work as this is mounted on the body. The clutch pipe work will need to be kept in mind as this is also attached to the body. There is enough slack in both of these components so no extra modifications should be required.

    Once you have gained enough lift you can start putting in the spacers. When one side is complete continue with the other side. Secure all the body mounting bolts once all the spacers are in.

    The rear floor support spacers bolt onto the brackets on either side of the rear suspension spring, and support the floor !

    The radiator is chassis mounted so when you have lifted the body fit the two top mounting spacers onto the two pins located on the sides of the radiator.

    Attach the extended body tie rods.

    Check the steering shaft and re tighten the bolts. Lift the bumpers as and when required.

    Another starting problem !!

    in Freelander Forum

    Posted

    Hi All

    Mrs wizards 1998 2.0l xedi Freelander has decided to play silly buggers.

    Yesterday when she was going to work the car wouldn,t do more than 50mph. There were no warning lights or funny noises, just flat out at 50mph.

    On the way home she said it went like it normally does (70 plus knowing the missus).

    I replaced the fuel and air filters as a precaution and took it for a spin, all was well.

    This morning she set of for work and it conked out a few miles from home. It turns over ok just wont start.

    I had a good poke about but cant find anything wrong, so I think the next thing to do is change the crankshaft sensor, only I cant find it.

    When it turns over there is fuel on the injectors so I recon the fuel side of things is ok.

    Where is the crankshaft sensor ?

    regards

    wizard

    Superwinch H14W

    in International Forum

    Posted

    Hi All

    I am about to take of my H14 winch and strip it down as the enguage/disenguage knob is seized.

    I also need a few parts.

    Where can i get the lever that operates to PTO gearbox ? and if i end up making one i assume its mounted somewhere near the hand brake lever.

    I have two driveshafts with the winch (both the same) but looking at the PTO output driveshaft and the winch driveshaft the gearbox crossmember looks like it will be in the way.

    Should I cut a bit out of it and re enforce it with a bit of plate or does it need replacing with a different one.

    Regards

    wizard

    Death Wobble Solution

    in Requests for Part Numbers

    Posted

    Sorry to hijack your thread but my Defender has started to do the same thing.

    I replaced the steering damper, just because it was the easiest thing to do 1st. Then I found a lot of play in the panhard rod bushes and the radius arm bushes so I replaced them, and it still has a funny turn every now and then.

    I checked wheel bearings and preload seems ok.

    I am going to have a look at the steering box arm this afternoon.

    wizard

    Disco Body lift

    in Discovery Forum

    Posted

    This might help

    Installing a Body Lift.

    A basic guide for a Land Rover Discovery Tdi

    A body lift is not as straightforward as it may seem. You need to do a bit more than put in a set of spacers under the body mounts.

    This is a basic guide to lifting the body on a Discovery and can be use for other lifts as and when required.

    The first job you need to do is replace the five flexible rubber brake lines.

    There are two on each front wheel and one over the back axle.

    If you instal a two-inch body lift I would recommend having plus 4 inch extended brake lines fitted.

    Below is a list of “other” parts required to do the job.

    10 body spacers

    10 long bolts (3/8 unf x 6 inch long)

    4 rear floor support spacers

    4 extended body tie rods

    2 radiator mounts

    2 rear bumper brackets

    2 front bumper brackets.

    A few days before you begin your body lift its advisable to spray the mounting bolts with a good quality penetrating oil.

    Begin with taking off the bumpers, or just the plastic end caps if you want to lift the bumpers at a later date. Bear in mind that the bumpers are attached to the chassis so once you have lifted the body you will have a 2-inch gap between the body and bumper.

    Remove the 4 body tie rods; these attach the seat belts to the chassis.

    Slacken off the steering column bolts; don’t remove the bolts, as the splines on the shaft will only need to move about 10mm as the body is lifted.

    Undo and remove the 5 body mounting bolts on one side, and remove the nuts on the bolts on the other side (leave the bolts in position)

    With the aid of a Hi Lift jack begin to lift the side with the bolts removed. Periodically check that no electrical wires etc are being pulled out of place; also keep an eye on the air filter pipe work as this is mounted on the body. The clutch pipe work will need to be kept in mind as this is also attached to the body. There is enough slack in both of these components so no extra modifications should be required.

    Once you have gained enough lift you can start putting in the spacers. When one side is complete continue with the other side. Secure all the body mounting bolts once all the spacers are in.

    The rear floor support spacers bolt onto the brackets on either side of the rear suspension spring, and support the floor !

    The radiator is chassis mounted so when you have lifted the body fit the two top mounting spacers onto the two pins located on the sides of the radiator.

    Attach the extended body tie rods.

    Check the steering shaft and re tighten the bolts. Lift the bumpers as and when required.

    Regards

    wizard

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