wizard

Hi check the pipe that runs from the vacuum pump to the servo, they have a habit if splitting on the T piece. wizard

I checked this as best I could. Plenty of crud coming out the pipe when reved up and a good flow on idle. The exhaust down pipe has plenty of exhaust sealant on it so it looks if it was taken apart at some point. I'll take the injector diaphramm out when i get a chance and check it for holes / splits. wizard

The boost was measured up a fairly long hill. Even if the guage is faulty(witch I doubt)It still wont pull very well up hill. I know its a 110 that is ment to be sliggish, but I shouldnt be down to 50mph on a uphill section of motorway. wizard

Hi All A few years ago i bought a 200 Tdi Defender 110. The turbo was a bit noisy when i got it but it still ran ok, so i wasnt to bothered about it, although it did struggle a bit on hills. A few months ago i decided to check the boost pressure, and turn it up a bit. anyway i had 0.5 bar boost no matter what i did with the waste gate actuator, so i concluded the turbo must be shot, because it made some alaming screeching noises when you booted it. I fitted another turbo this weekend and the boost pressure is the same 0.5bar ! The guage I am using is a good quality one so I trust the reading. The waste gate moves freely when disconnected from the actuator and i took the exhaust manifold off the check that the waste gate is actually doing its job.(it looks ok) The intercooler and pipe work is free from leaks and If I take the top intercooler hose off there is tons of air coming out when the engine is reved up.. So now i am stumped, where am i losing boost pressure. Regards wizard

Excellent I like it. Hopefully i will order the intercooler today, just looking around for some 3 inch to 2 inch silicone reducer pipes. wizard

Thats is exacly what i was looking for. What are the rough dimentions of the intercooler and did you have much hassle fitting it. regards wizard

Hi All I am planning on fitting a big intercooler to my 200Tdi Defender shortly. The turbo is on its way out, so the plan is to fit one I have off a 300 tdi and stick in a big intercooler at the same time. Someone must have done this at some point so my question is what intercooler did you use and does any one know what space is available in front of the radiator. I will take off my bull bar, winch and grill tomorrow, if time allows to have a measure up. Please dont suggest fitting an allisport or similar because is am far to tight to spend £300-£400 on something that will bolt straight in !!!! Regards wizard

I think the seats will be to high and wide. wizard

Just to add on from Tel's D2 guide here is my guide to fitting a body lift to a disco 1 Regards wizard Installing a Body Lift. A basic guide for a Land Rover Discovery Tdi A body lift is not as straightforward as it may seem. You need to do a bit more than put in a set of spacers under the body mounts. This is a basic guide to lifting the body on a Discovery and can be use for other lifts as and when required. The first job you need to do is replace the five flexible rubber brake lines. There are two on each front wheel and one over the back axle. If you install a two-inch body lift I would recommend having plus 4 inch extended brake lines fitted. Below is a list of “other” parts required to do the job. 10 body spacers 10 long bolts (3/8 unf x 6 inch long) or m10x150 4 rear floor support spacers 4 extended body tie rods 2 radiator mounts 2 rear bumper brackets- not included 2 front bumper brackets. - not included A few days before you begin your body lift its advisable to spray the mounting bolts with a good quality penetrating oil. Begin with taking off the bumpers, or just the plastic end caps if you want to lift the bumpers at a later date. Bear in mind that the bumpers are attached to the chassis so once you have lifted the body you will have a 2-inch gap between the body and bumper. Remove the 4 body tie rods; these attach the seat belts to the chassis. Slacken off the steering column bolts; don’t remove the bolts, as the splines on the shaft will only need to move about 10mm as the body is lifted. Undo and remove the 5 body mounting bolts on one side, and remove the nuts on the bolts on the other side (leave the bolts in position) With the aid of a Hi Lift jack begin to lift the side with the bolts removed. Periodically check that no electrical wires etc are being pulled out of place; also keep an eye on the air filter pipe work as this is mounted on the body. The clutch pipe work will need to be kept in mind as this is also attached to the body. There is enough slack in both of these components so no extra modifications should be required. Once you have gained enough lift you can start putting in the spacers. When one side is complete continue with the other side. Secure all the body mounting bolts once all the spacers are in. The rear floor support spacers bolt onto the brackets on either side of the rear suspension spring, and support the floor ! The radiator is chassis mounted so when you have lifted the body fit the two top mounting spacers onto the two pins located on the sides of the radiator. Attach the extended body tie rods. Check the steering shaft and re tighten the bolts. Lift the bumpers as and when required.

buy a house with a bigger driveway wizard

Hi All Mrs wizards 1998 2.0l xedi Freelander has decided to play silly buggers. Yesterday when she was going to work the car wouldn,t do more than 50mph. There were no warning lights or funny noises, just flat out at 50mph. On the way home she said it went like it normally does (70 plus knowing the missus). I replaced the fuel and air filters as a precaution and took it for a spin, all was well. This morning she set of for work and it conked out a few miles from home. It turns over ok just wont start. I had a good poke about but cant find anything wrong, so I think the next thing to do is change the crankshaft sensor, only I cant find it. When it turns over there is fuel on the injectors so I recon the fuel side of things is ok. Where is the crankshaft sensor ? regards wizard

I tried the cable repair kits and they were a nightmare. I bought the complete unit and changed both front mechnisms in 21/2 hours. wizard

Check the connection on the fuel cut off solenoid, it might be loose. wizard

My 200TDi 110 HCPU gets about 19 mpg. It does have 35s on though. wizard

Sounds like you need to replace the earth cable that goes between the engine and the chassis. Next time you have a problem put a jump lead from the battery's negative terminal to the engine block. Regards wizard

The 300 box will bolt straight on. You will need the hand brake cable from the 300 and the speedo connector off the 200. The 300's speedo is electric and the 200's mechanical but the two types are interchangerble. wizard

I personally steer well clear of Britpart.They are well known for poor quality. Rather bite the bullet and get the original ones.As they say "buy cheap pay twice" which I think should be BP's logo. wizard

Hi Richard Thanks for the info. Hopefully I can get it off and stripped down today. Regards wizard

Hi Yes just the front one otherwise it will chew up Uj's every few months. wizard

Hi All I am about to take of my H14 winch and strip it down as the enguage/disenguage knob is seized. I also need a few parts. Where can i get the lever that operates to PTO gearbox ? and if i end up making one i assume its mounted somewhere near the hand brake lever. I have two driveshafts with the winch (both the same) but looking at the PTO output driveshaft and the winch driveshaft the gearbox crossmember looks like it will be in the way. Should I cut a bit out of it and re enforce it with a bit of plate or does it need replacing with a different one. Regards wizard

If you go to 3 inches you will need to put on either a wide angle front prop or a double cardan one. wizard

My 200 Tdi 110 has Bearmach heavy duty plus 2 inch springs on with OME shocks. It also has 1 inch spring spacers to give it a 3 inch lift. It usually runs fairly well loaded and although its on 35's it handles quite well. wizard

Sorry to hijack your thread but my Defender has started to do the same thing. I replaced the steering damper, just because it was the easiest thing to do 1st. Then I found a lot of play in the panhard rod bushes and the radius arm bushes so I replaced them, and it still has a funny turn every now and then. I checked wheel bearings and preload seems ok. I am going to have a look at the steering box arm this afternoon. wizard

One will be a left hand thread and one will be a right hand thread. If the one you changed was right hand then the other is lefthand. or vise versa !!! Regards wizard

This might help Installing a Body Lift. A basic guide for a Land Rover Discovery Tdi A body lift is not as straightforward as it may seem. You need to do a bit more than put in a set of spacers under the body mounts. This is a basic guide to lifting the body on a Discovery and can be use for other lifts as and when required. The first job you need to do is replace the five flexible rubber brake lines. There are two on each front wheel and one over the back axle. If you instal a two-inch body lift I would recommend having plus 4 inch extended brake lines fitted. Below is a list of “other” parts required to do the job. 10 body spacers 10 long bolts (3/8 unf x 6 inch long) 4 rear floor support spacers 4 extended body tie rods 2 radiator mounts 2 rear bumper brackets 2 front bumper brackets. A few days before you begin your body lift its advisable to spray the mounting bolts with a good quality penetrating oil. Begin with taking off the bumpers, or just the plastic end caps if you want to lift the bumpers at a later date. Bear in mind that the bumpers are attached to the chassis so once you have lifted the body you will have a 2-inch gap between the body and bumper. Remove the 4 body tie rods; these attach the seat belts to the chassis. Slacken off the steering column bolts; don’t remove the bolts, as the splines on the shaft will only need to move about 10mm as the body is lifted. Undo and remove the 5 body mounting bolts on one side, and remove the nuts on the bolts on the other side (leave the bolts in position) With the aid of a Hi Lift jack begin to lift the side with the bolts removed. Periodically check that no electrical wires etc are being pulled out of place; also keep an eye on the air filter pipe work as this is mounted on the body. The clutch pipe work will need to be kept in mind as this is also attached to the body. There is enough slack in both of these components so no extra modifications should be required. Once you have gained enough lift you can start putting in the spacers. When one side is complete continue with the other side. Secure all the body mounting bolts once all the spacers are in. The rear floor support spacers bolt onto the brackets on either side of the rear suspension spring, and support the floor ! The radiator is chassis mounted so when you have lifted the body fit the two top mounting spacers onto the two pins located on the sides of the radiator. Attach the extended body tie rods. Check the steering shaft and re tighten the bolts. Lift the bumpers as and when required. Regards wizard