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lyron

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Posts posted by lyron

  1. if you decide to drop the box, you can do it with all four wheels of the ground. ( on very good axle stands) and use an engine hoist through the passenger door. saves a heck of a lot of struggling especialy if you are doing it on your own. they are very heavy.although mine is a disco 1 the principles are the same.it might be worth while you are at it swapping the dmf for a standard flywheel conversion.

    ron.

  2. non original prop, so does not have any markings whatsoever. it was my own stupid fault for not marking things up before refurb. a mistake I will not be making again. :im-ok-smiley-emoticon: a very valuable lesson learned.have had the prop off and on moving the splined end round one at a time, not quite right yet but a heck of a lot better. will continue tomorrow. have hadf enough for to-day :blink::blink::blink:

    ron.

  3. forgive the title but..just changed the ujs on the front propshaft 300tdi. guess what dewdrop forgot to mark up when I removed the splined end to check for wear on the splines. yep, me!!!! I now have an annoying vibration through the transmission so I am assuming I have got sommat wrong. any advice on how to sort out the configuration of the shaft without me having to take it out and move it one sline at a time.

    many thanks..

    ron.post-39095-0-70167000-1415995107_thumb.jpg

  4. when i did ours i ended up droping the rear of the box as far as i could then i found it easier to get the socket on, but it was still a bitch to do.just remove the bolts from the crossmember after removing the prop you should be able to get to the top bolts with a stack of extentions jack engine back up and split the box.

    ron.

  5. good morning folks,

    the warning lights came on the disco 2.(usual ones,abs etc)so checked wheel bearings,YIKKES!!!!! were they bad. got a new set .put em on for him so all sorted, now, the question i am going to ask is, he wants to know if there is any way he can reset the warning lights without going to the main stealers.

    many thanks.

    ron.

  6. we get about 40 on a run with ours(manual not auto) you say it's rubbish, what are you actualy getting? if it's in the 30s you will be about right. also what fuel are you using. i e cheap supermarket or decent stuff. if you can hear air being sucked in check intercooler pipes paticularly the one going to the inlet manifold, also you could check inlet manifold gasket, a very simple job. it may well benefit from a thorough service, sorry i can't be more helpfull.

    ron.

  7. makes sence to do it as you are doutfull of the history,bit of sdvice though if you don't mind me saying, i would crack the crankshaft pulley before you remove the head.(as the bolt is VERY tight evry little bit of resistance helps)<br /><br />ron.

  8. well.just had the defender in today to find out why the battery went down, found one or two faults. radio kept coming on and off all on it's own. ignition switch would not switch off so the damn pump was still on all the time,e c u badly earthed. :blush: but apart from that everything seems to be ok :wacko: i do wish these young lads would take better care of their cars :i-m_so_happy::i-m_so_happy: thanks for all tyhe helpfull advice.

    ron.

  9. good morning o knowlegable ones, just been out to help our cousin with his td5 fender. symptoms are dead flat battery. put the spare one on starts fine, go to switch the damn thing off, nothing, zip zero, would it switch off, would it eckers like.so i put it in top foot firmly on the brake pedal ready to stall it. but it stopped the very moment i put the brake pedal down. so thought try that again, and evry time we ran it up switched off and then pressed brake pedal it stopped, i would assume we have an electrical problem (which is what caused it to kill the battery in the first place. any ideas because i am stummped.

    many thanks

    ron.

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