[Another non starter]

Right, turned out to be a dead battery, new fully charged battery and after a bit of struggling she turned over and sprang back into life

Thanks all for your help,

Chris

[Another non starter]

Depends how robustly you're built, park with the nearside wheel up on the kerb and lay underneath, should be doable. Either that or collar a small child

Just remember to disconnect the battery first!

He, he, think it'll have to be the small child route, getting it up on the kerb might prove difficult. I have a feeling pushing it by myself will not do the trick, because I seem to have lost my superhero powers somewhere between 2007 and 2008

Maybe a good shock from the battery will restore them...

Cheers,

Chris

[Another non starter]

It's not difficult to do, just fiddly - you need to remove the starter motor complete before changing the solenoid.

Unfortunately the car is parked on the road and I don't have access to axle stands or ramps, and it strikes me as something I can't easily do from above...

Cheers,

Chris

[Another non starter]

If ive read your post correctly, your asking where the solenoid is on the car? If so, its on the right, attached to the starter motor, about halfway down the engine behind the exhaust, follow the battery lead to it.

So in other words, not something easy to get to, that I can just unbolt and swap for a new one

Thanks for all your help guys, will keep trying...

Chris

[Another non starter]

Is the starter solenoid clicking?

It sounds as if the solenoid is stuck and not throwing forward for both gear engagement and electrical supply.

Thanks for the super quick reply...

You might be right, there doesn't seem to be any clicking. Oh and I also checked the car was definitely in park... Can the solenoid be replaced? Is it a straightforward fix? Where can I find it?

Thanks,

Chris

[Another non starter]

Hiya,

got back from a wonderful Christmas in Germany, went to start the old girl and... nothing (except for some dash lights and various pumps).

She's been standing for three weeks, and was running fine before, so I thought maybe the battery had drained. Got the recharger out and charged the battery (multimeter reads 12.4 volts across the terminals after charging), popped it back in and all the dash lights come on, the clock is working, as are the various pumps, but on turning the ignition to the start position there is nothing. It's not even trying to turn the engine over. Also checked all the wiring, which is in place and seems fine...

I'm completely mystified, please help me get her going again...

Thanks,

Chris

[Ignition Leads]

Thanks everyone, I might just go for Magnecor, just need to work out whether to buy the 7mm or 8mm ones. I don't think the 8.5 racing ones are required for the old girl

Chris.

[Ignition Leads]

Afternoon all,

the title really says it all. The time has come to renew my aging HT leads and I was wondering which ones I should replace them with. A set of Bosch ones from Halfrauds or something else? Any recommendations would be gratefully received... Oh and it's a 1992, 3.9 V8...

Thanks,

Chris

[Mudflaps]

Hmmm, not a bad idea, though given their proximity to the fuel tank and knowing my luck, it will all end in a giant ball of flame

[Mudflaps]

<rant>

Of all the things they could have used to hold the rear mudflaps onto my beloved Rangy, why did they have to use those crazy, massive rivets. There was me thinking I could just unbolt them, but no, that would be too easy. Now I have to take half the car apart to change them, because sawing through those rivets in situ is a gigantic pain...

</rant>

Or am I missing something really obvious?

Cheers,

Chris

[Electric Mirrors]

Excellent, thank you for that, very useful little download...

For anyone else wondering, the reset procedure is as follows:

Make sure nothing is in the path of the full seat movement.

Put the car in Park and open the driver's door.

On the seat switch, press the green button 5 times.

Then press the memory buttons (1 and 2) in the following order: 2 - 1 - 1 - 2

The driver's seat and two door mirrors will then move through their entire range of movement and stop at the half way position.

Good to know, turns out my left hand mirror only moves through half of its up/down range, obviously something amiss, will investigate further.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Chris

[Electric Mirrors]

Is this for you classic? I don't know of any calibration procedure (doesn't mean there isn't one). I take it you've tried setting them correctly and resaving the seat memory? Do they operate correctly using the switch (that would eliminate the motors)? Could be a dead position sensor rather than calibration?

As far as I can figure out the memory stores the readings from the sensors in the memory then just moves the mirrors to get that reading. If so I'm not sure why it would need calibrating

Yep, 92 Vogue SE. The mirrors move through the full range using the joystick. I have adjusted them to the correct position and then saved the seat memory, but when recalling the memory, they always readjust (on both sides, large movement on the passenger side, tiny movement on the driver's side) and end up pointing in odd directions. When using the joystick, the passenger mirror 'pulses', i.e. it moves a bit, stops, then moves a bit more, then stops, etc.

The manual states that there is a calibration procedure which should move both mirrors through their entire range of motion.

If it is a knackered sensor, can they be replaced or are we talking all new mirror?

Thanks,

Chris

[Electric Mirrors]

Hi,

whenever I press the button to change the drivers seat back to my settings after my girlfriend has driven the car, the mirrors set themselves to odd angles. According to the workshop manual there is a calibration procedure which apparently cycles the mirrors through their entire range of movement. Unfortunately, there is no mention how this is achieved in the manual. If anyone knows how to calibrate the mirrors, I would be very grateful...

Thanks,

Chris.

[Relays]

Morning all,

the other day I was driving along when the engine cut out. It then failed to restart. The AA man quickly diagnosed it as a faulty fuel pump relay and bridged the connections to get me home. I checked the voltages with a multimeter to ensure it was a dodgy relay and then replaced the relay. Everything is now working fine. However, given that the EFI relay next to the fuel pump one is identical and the same age, I thought I should replace that while I'm at it. Strangely though, replacing that relay with an identical one to the new fuel pump one, causes the car not to run...

I'm puzzled, do any of you have any clues (other than a dud relay)?

Cheers,

Chris

[It's still doing it]

hi chrispy.

I know this is an old post but did you get the running problem sorted.

I have a rrc 3.9efi 1990 and its just started giving the same symtoms as yours did.

any help would be greatly appreciated

GARY

Hi Gary,

I've given up with it and decided to just live with it. As I mentioned in my previous posts, I've done pretty much everything humanly possible and still have the problem. It's a lot better than it was, but it's not cured. I didn't check the fuel pressure, but I would have thought that would result in a constant problem rather than just the cold / slightly warm problem I'm having.

Sorry I can't be of more help,

Chris

[Fitting windscreen washer pump]

Morning all,

the front windscreen washer pump in my 92 Vogue SE has given up the ghost. I got a replacement, but I'm not sure how to go about fitting it. Am I correct in assuming it just pushes into place in the reservoir (and therefore removing the broken one just means pulling it out, after removing cables and tubes, of course)?

Also, any ideas on how to drain the reservoir before doing this would be most appreciated...

Thanks,

Chris

[Air-con noises]

Probably time to get the multimeter out and do a bit of tracing, see where it's going wrong. You might be able to pinpoint the problem before you start taking anything apart.

Sounds like the best plan, at the moment I switch it off by taking the fuse out.

[Air-con noises]

It does do arctic, to the point where ice starts to form on the passenger side air vents. There is hardly anything coming out of the vents on the driver's side, so it could well be a stuck flap of some description. In fact not much more than a trickle comes out of the vent closest to the door.

It does still seem like the compressor is constantly running, so I think there is also a thermostat issue of some kind. People have mentioned that there is a thin tube running from the back of the heater control into the aircon, need to check that too.

Looks like a dashboard out job

Cheers,

Chris

[Air-con noises]

Morning,

over the weekend, while driving along with the air-con on, it started making a series of odd popping, whistling, slurping and plopping noises. Apologies for the rather poor description of the noises. Also, the temperature control has no effect on the air blowing out, it's always arctic.

Any clues to the noises and the lack of control would be welcome.

Thanks,

Chris

[Key stuck in the ignition]

New lock it is. AA man came this morning and as he took the trim off, the switch plate normally attached to the back of the lock just fell into the footwell ;-(

Any tips on how best to maintain the replacement would be gratefully accepted though. Regular spraying with WD40 seems to be required.

Cheers for all your help,

Chris

[Key stuck in the ignition]

Hi all,

just took my Rangy for its MOT, she passed no problems, but the garage just rang to say the key is stuck in the ignition and though it turns and apparently the starter is going, the engine won't start.

Any clues would be appreciated, especially with regards to getting the key out...

Thanks,

Chris

[Classic auto box stuck in first]

Fixed it! Turned out to be a stuck kickdown cable. A little loop was hanging out of the cable guide by the throttle assembly, wiggled it a bit and it snapped back into place. I'm hoping a generous squirt of WD40 will keep it moving...

Thanks all for your help,

Chris

[Classic auto box stuck in first]

Is the kick down cable sticking? Have you tried undoing it and seeing if that allows it to change up?

That sounds about right. Could you explain how to go about checking it? I'm away from home and don't have my books with me...

Cheers,

Chris

[Classic auto box stuck in first]

Hello,

on the way home at the weekend, I went to overtake someone, so the kick down came on as expected but it then refused to change back up when I took my foot off the gas. In fact, she won't change gears at all now, I can still drive, but the box seems to be stuck in 1st. Reverse still works, but the 1, 2 and 3 positions make no discernible difference.

A quick check under the bonnet revealed that the vacuum hose that comes out of the driver's side bulkhead and runs accross the engine into a T-piece near the throttle had come off. Reconnecting it did not make a difference though.

Any clues would be great, ideally ones that I can fix myself ;-) I would rather not limp to the garage in first at 10mph.

Oh, it's a 1992 Vogue SE 3.9

Cheers,

Chris

[Central locking problems]

Thanks everyone,

I'll give it a go this weekend, the panel needs to come off anyway, new speakers waiting to be fitted. Can any of this be done without removing the plastic foil? If not has anyone successfully removed the foil without tearing it?

Cheers,

Chris