chrispy

Right, turned out to be a dead battery, new fully charged battery and after a bit of struggling she turned over and sprang back into life Thanks all for your help, Chris

He, he, think it'll have to be the small child route, getting it up on the kerb might prove difficult. I have a feeling pushing it by myself will not do the trick, because I seem to have lost my superhero powers somewhere between 2007 and 2008 Maybe a good shock from the battery will restore them... Cheers, Chris

Unfortunately the car is parked on the road and I don't have access to axle stands or ramps, and it strikes me as something I can't easily do from above... Cheers, Chris

So in other words, not something easy to get to, that I can just unbolt and swap for a new one Thanks for all your help guys, will keep trying... Chris

Thanks for the super quick reply... You might be right, there doesn't seem to be any clicking. Oh and I also checked the car was definitely in park... Can the solenoid be replaced? Is it a straightforward fix? Where can I find it? Thanks, Chris

Hiya, got back from a wonderful Christmas in Germany, went to start the old girl and... nothing (except for some dash lights and various pumps). She's been standing for three weeks, and was running fine before, so I thought maybe the battery had drained. Got the recharger out and charged the battery (multimeter reads 12.4 volts across the terminals after charging), popped it back in and all the dash lights come on, the clock is working, as are the various pumps, but on turning the ignition to the start position there is nothing. It's not even trying to turn the engine over. Also checked all the wiring, which is in place and seems fine... I'm completely mystified, please help me get her going again... Thanks, Chris

Thanks everyone, I might just go for Magnecor, just need to work out whether to buy the 7mm or 8mm ones. I don't think the 8.5 racing ones are required for the old girl Chris.

Afternoon all, the title really says it all. The time has come to renew my aging HT leads and I was wondering which ones I should replace them with. A set of Bosch ones from Halfrauds or something else? Any recommendations would be gratefully received... Oh and it's a 1992, 3.9 V8... Thanks, Chris

Hmmm, not a bad idea, though given their proximity to the fuel tank and knowing my luck, it will all end in a giant ball of flame

<rant> Of all the things they could have used to hold the rear mudflaps onto my beloved Rangy, why did they have to use those crazy, massive rivets. There was me thinking I could just unbolt them, but no, that would be too easy. Now I have to take half the car apart to change them, because sawing through those rivets in situ is a gigantic pain... </rant> Or am I missing something really obvious? Cheers, Chris

Excellent, thank you for that, very useful little download... For anyone else wondering, the reset procedure is as follows: Make sure nothing is in the path of the full seat movement. Put the car in Park and open the driver's door. On the seat switch, press the green button 5 times. Then press the memory buttons (1 and 2) in the following order: 2 - 1 - 1 - 2 The driver's seat and two door mirrors will then move through their entire range of movement and stop at the half way position. Good to know, turns out my left hand mirror only moves through half of its up/down range, obviously something amiss, will investigate further. Thanks for everyone's help. Chris

Yep, 92 Vogue SE. The mirrors move through the full range using the joystick. I have adjusted them to the correct position and then saved the seat memory, but when recalling the memory, they always readjust (on both sides, large movement on the passenger side, tiny movement on the driver's side) and end up pointing in odd directions. When using the joystick, the passenger mirror 'pulses', i.e. it moves a bit, stops, then moves a bit more, then stops, etc. The manual states that there is a calibration procedure which should move both mirrors through their entire range of motion. If it is a knackered sensor, can they be replaced or are we talking all new mirror? Thanks, Chris

Hi, whenever I press the button to change the drivers seat back to my settings after my girlfriend has driven the car, the mirrors set themselves to odd angles. According to the workshop manual there is a calibration procedure which apparently cycles the mirrors through their entire range of movement. Unfortunately, there is no mention how this is achieved in the manual. If anyone knows how to calibrate the mirrors, I would be very grateful... Thanks, Chris.

Morning all, the other day I was driving along when the engine cut out. It then failed to restart. The AA man quickly diagnosed it as a faulty fuel pump relay and bridged the connections to get me home. I checked the voltages with a multimeter to ensure it was a dodgy relay and then replaced the relay. Everything is now working fine. However, given that the EFI relay next to the fuel pump one is identical and the same age, I thought I should replace that while I'm at it. Strangely though, replacing that relay with an identical one to the new fuel pump one, causes the car not to run... I'm puzzled, do any of you have any clues (other than a dud relay)? Cheers, Chris

Hi Gary, I've given up with it and decided to just live with it. As I mentioned in my previous posts, I've done pretty much everything humanly possible and still have the problem. It's a lot better than it was, but it's not cured. I didn't check the fuel pressure, but I would have thought that would result in a constant problem rather than just the cold / slightly warm problem I'm having. Sorry I can't be of more help, Chris

Morning all, the front windscreen washer pump in my 92 Vogue SE has given up the ghost. I got a replacement, but I'm not sure how to go about fitting it. Am I correct in assuming it just pushes into place in the reservoir (and therefore removing the broken one just means pulling it out, after removing cables and tubes, of course)? Also, any ideas on how to drain the reservoir before doing this would be most appreciated... Thanks, Chris

Sounds like the best plan, at the moment I switch it off by taking the fuse out.

It does do arctic, to the point where ice starts to form on the passenger side air vents. There is hardly anything coming out of the vents on the driver's side, so it could well be a stuck flap of some description. In fact not much more than a trickle comes out of the vent closest to the door. It does still seem like the compressor is constantly running, so I think there is also a thermostat issue of some kind. People have mentioned that there is a thin tube running from the back of the heater control into the aircon, need to check that too. Looks like a dashboard out job Cheers, Chris

Morning, over the weekend, while driving along with the air-con on, it started making a series of odd popping, whistling, slurping and plopping noises. Apologies for the rather poor description of the noises. Also, the temperature control has no effect on the air blowing out, it's always arctic. Any clues to the noises and the lack of control would be welcome. Thanks, Chris

New lock it is. AA man came this morning and as he took the trim off, the switch plate normally attached to the back of the lock just fell into the footwell ;-( Any tips on how best to maintain the replacement would be gratefully accepted though. Regular spraying with WD40 seems to be required. Cheers for all your help, Chris

Hi all, just took my Rangy for its MOT, she passed no problems, but the garage just rang to say the key is stuck in the ignition and though it turns and apparently the starter is going, the engine won't start. Any clues would be appreciated, especially with regards to getting the key out... Thanks, Chris

Fixed it! Turned out to be a stuck kickdown cable. A little loop was hanging out of the cable guide by the throttle assembly, wiggled it a bit and it snapped back into place. I'm hoping a generous squirt of WD40 will keep it moving... Thanks all for your help, Chris

That sounds about right. Could you explain how to go about checking it? I'm away from home and don't have my books with me... Cheers, Chris

Hello, on the way home at the weekend, I went to overtake someone, so the kick down came on as expected but it then refused to change back up when I took my foot off the gas. In fact, she won't change gears at all now, I can still drive, but the box seems to be stuck in 1st. Reverse still works, but the 1, 2 and 3 positions make no discernible difference. A quick check under the bonnet revealed that the vacuum hose that comes out of the driver's side bulkhead and runs accross the engine into a T-piece near the throttle had come off. Reconnecting it did not make a difference though. Any clues would be great, ideally ones that I can fix myself ;-) I would rather not limp to the garage in first at 10mph. Oh, it's a 1992 Vogue SE 3.9 Cheers, Chris

Thanks everyone, I'll give it a go this weekend, the panel needs to come off anyway, new speakers waiting to be fitted. Can any of this be done without removing the plastic foil? If not has anyone successfully removed the foil without tearing it? Cheers, Chris