Tanis8472
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Posts posted by Tanis8472
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And from cold too.
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QuoteOn 11/03/2018 at 4:01 PM, Bowie69 said:
Perhaps you need to adjust your kickdown cable then
Its an electronic throttle.
On 07/03/2018 at 7:29 PM, Team Idris said:We have bought a P38 with the six cylinder bmw diesel and the HP24 gearbox in it. We feel it revs way too much in top gear and we wondered if the torque converter is old and weak?
We were both plant fitters and I have to say it feels like a really high-stall unit. It actually revs more than the HP22 behind my 3.5 RV8. So we figure it’s either worn or it’s bad inside (maybe bent).
any thoughts, or are we way off the mark? I mean, it’s 26 years old, so it is entitled to have a bad torque converter
The diesel should have the 4HP22 not 4HP24
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No problem although it would help if you mention what model and year
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As the FL2 has a different unit [haldex] its a little different. It uses an o-ring afaik.
As above, FL1 its just RTV around the whole surface.
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Just to clarify, wind windows to fully open from closed. Release switch and Wind windows fully up and hold for 3-5seconds.
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Some had no TC at all.
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Surely A lift should make the prop shaft too short.
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Old I know, but no petrol and diesel have different part numbers
Ftc122 for diesel
FRC9542 for petrol
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Old topic now, but that sounds like vcu support bearing rubbers have delaminated. Look fine but are damaged.
Earlier you said genuine parts but now you say good quality. None last like oe.
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Sorry to bring up an old post, but the easiest thing to do with the EAS timer relay is to replace it with a yellow one from the engine bay fuse box.
To run diagnostics, just put the timer relay back in.
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..and some info that might be of use to Diesel P38 Auto owners.
Dont rely 100% on this info, but the D P38 Auto uses a different propshaft to all the other models in the P38 range.
For the D Auto TVB000130
Dimensions:
9cm x 9cm x 82cmFTC4140 for the rest
Dimensions:
10cm x 11cm x 79cmSeems the Auto is 3cm longer than the rest.
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Well the new diff is fitted.
All those problems are now gone. Drives nice and smooth and no longer getting a hot diff.
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Probably the satnav unit in the side of the boot.
Try unplugging it and see if radio works again.
Satnav units eventually stop working.
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There was a mod [official LR] that had a second wire from alternator to the battery.
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How about using engine braking downhill. Then use brakes only when really needed. I'm betting they are being used all of the the way downhill.
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Used to turn off parking sensors when towing.
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Trouble free motoring and lr are two things that usually don't go together lol.
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I have a feeling that the previous owners ignored the signs of a damaged Uj and that's screwed it up. The uj's were totally destroyed when I got it. Probably heat from bearing melted the grease resulting in Uj blowing.
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Yes both props smooth and have new gkn uj's
Got her booked in at a local place to change whole diff for good one now.
That's on top of getting two bolts that hd bumper on out, they have both corroded and sheared off
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Doesnt look original to me. Certainly never seen factory lettering like that. Looks like aftermarket letters.
I would check out the front end for accident damage and maybe spend £2 on a vehicle check.
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I've got a local lr bloke saying everything but that. I don't think I can rely on him tbh.
I've described the symptoms and problems but says likely gearbox windup. That would not cause a untouchable pinion and flange due to heat.
I get a vibration and humming with front shaft attached but none with it off.
It seems to get hotter too with Prop attached. Extra pressure on the bearings?
I still think it's probably the pinion bearing.
Any thoughts?
EAS timer relay location
in Range Rover Forum
Posted
So which pin would that be?
I'm guessing the extra pin that's not on a 4 pin relay!