hundertneuner
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Posts posted by hundertneuner
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Hi!
Is the "classic" 4 spoke steering wheel of 90/110 (also found in RRCs with different wiriting on the "impact-cussion") the 19mm type??? I've recently bought a new steering column (the seller beliebved it was for a 200/300 Tdi, but he wasn't certain) for my power steering conversion. I' just tried- the original TD5 steering wheel doesen't match this column... how many different of types of 90/110/Defender columns do exist???
Ciao,
Sascha
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I am running 33mm wheelspacers in combination with (standard) 5,5x16 wheels and 7,5 inch tyres. I´ve done 10.000 km since fitting them and had no problems- the turning cycle is now really nice and driving through curves even better. See pics below. The spacers were for free, so hadn´t to go for other wheels and tyres; the combination of wolf wheels and 235/85x16 would be my prefered option.
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have you done a few gearbox rebuilds, ? as the lt85 is not a good one to start with. Suggest you give Ashcrofts a ring and check out your options , they are very helpful. I take it you are in Deutchland , is the LT85 in your 109 ? JMHO
yes, i am going to transplant it into my 109 next spring. it is not the first box, but i want to substitute the pricy german traders for parts...
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I have to rebuilt a worn LT 85 gearbox. Where should i buy the needed parts? LEGS or Ashcroft or???????
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...what about this engine setup: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=9zjSnGgrXQU
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If it was a 5-bearing engine you would be able to see the crank seal in the pictures posted.
Les.
you´re right- and i was:
sascha
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Your rear seal is the split type. You have to remove the gearbox, clutch, flywheel, flywheel housing, sump, and crankshaft rear main bearing cap.
The split in the seal has to be fitted so that it's in the 12-o-clock position, then the tensioning spring has to go in once the seal is in place. To say that this is a pig of a job is a gross understatement - you have to work in a gap that's about 15mm. I would take the engine out, drain the oil, then turn the engine upside-down to do it.
Les.
how do you know this? the fact that his landy is a series 2 isn´t a good hint for the engine-type (3 v 5 main-bearing)that is currently installed... it was maybe updated/changed in the past (or is the kind of flywheelhousing pictured above a hint???)...
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well the one in my defender was a pull out push in job so i assume this is the other type, 3 bearing one. do i need to drop the crank to change it? if so could anyone tell me the torque settings for the main bolts?
Thanks
you only have to remove the last bearing-block of the crankshaft, located next to flywheelhousing. don´t you have a workshop-handbook for series vehicles? it is available in the internet without problems and without having to pay for it... i´ll send you a pm with a link for that...
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Hi guys, i'm attempting a crankshaft oil seal in a 2.25 petrol series 2 and i thought it would be the same as the one in my 90 but it's not. can you give me some pointers?
Any advice greatly appreciated.
the crankshaft-seal of engines which have got 3 or 5 main-bearings are different. the older 3 main-bearing crankshaft has got a "slip-over" seal (there is a cut through the oilseal) and the 5 main-bearing crankshaft is a "push-on" seal 8 (no cut), like in all later ( i think past 1980) engines... make a pic of the side of your engine, so we may identify a 3 or 5-main bearing engine!
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It looks like maybe the Zeus kit would work, and also the one from Rovers North, by Proline. RN says that there's is for all SII and SIII rears, including 109's, which would mean Sals. But they can't say for sure if anyone has ever done it to a Sals, and had it work. I really don't want to be their guinea pig. Will wait until my email is replied to by Zeus, and go from there.
Maybe u give Paul at www.heystee-automotive.com a ring/try? Very friendly guy, i´ve seen this kit sometime ago: really good craftmannship and common parts used... i will go for such a kit (front) next year: perhaps this kit matches the sal!? ask him..
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Hi Andy!
May u shoot some more pics of your nice truck, especially the corners around the axles???
C
heers, Sascha -
really great! i am very impressed about the mods you guys do over there! please keep us updated, especially the upcoming 101/ENV axle conversion...
cheers sascha
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..wow- a great toy you own there! Please keep us updated with your projects on it!
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Looks good well done
david
Thanks, David- I´ve just been on your homepage to have a look at your project: Very nice!
Sascha
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Hi!
My lower dashboard of my exMoD 109 was a little bit tired (after the army rocked it!)- so i decided to refurbish it.
It was stripped, sandblasted and painted again. But before it was sandblasted, i welded an wind-guiding-plate (can i say like this??) into this box at the right side (see pic) and made the gap for the footwell at this side smaller. now i have got the same amount of air at both sides of the dash... Then i refitted the cleaned foam-part and glued it on. Tomorrow, with my mum´s help, i will put some new synthetic leather on it!
CU, Sascha
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check this out: http://www.bell-aurens.com/bell-aurens.com/Startseite.html !
it´s a series 2 long v8 creation....
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..this is mine: exMoD LHD series3 petrol
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Hi there!
I´ve got a question concerning length oft the steering relay spring of an series3 lwb 4cyl. model.
Is it right that the length has to be 184mm when new, like written in the workshop manual? Or is this a misprint???
The length of my old one is nearly 165mm....any ideas????????
Thanks so far....Sascha
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Great work, minivin!
Cheers Sascha
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...have a look at the hinges- the defenders doors fit without problems to series3 hinges-
but yours 2a has different ones as you know, so check this point before, maybe you will hve to change to series3/defender-style hinges or you goota drill a bit...
cheers sascha
heers, Sascha
LR 110: Propshaft question!!
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi,
currently i'm converting a 109 series 3 to V8 using an LT 85 a part-time LT230 and the original mounts as used in a 110. Yesterday i've started to put the drive train into my chassis- is it right that both propshafts can not be set parallel to the fictive middle chassis line? So in a 110 (V8) with salisbyury diff the propshaft setup is angular?
Best regards
Sascha