cw01
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Posts posted by cw01
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To touch again on this topic,
I was told today that my headlights on my 1986 110 are imports, and that they are pointing the wrong way, the guy advised me that to get it through its MOT I could use stickers that you use when going to the continent?.
Has any one heard of this, or how i would go about doing it?
Cheers,
Chris
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Don't actually know what it smells like, as I have always been in the cab, smells kinda, well, exhausty, and thats only what ive smelled from inside, I will try and check the smell. As for water loss, there doesn't appear to be any major loss.
And the plugs and other things they are all at the very least 1998, 'cause thats when I got it and nothings been done to the engine except for oil and filters.
What is involved in changing the glow plugs and the other bits mentioned?.
CHris
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Hi there,
how long or far should it take for the water in the expansion tank to heat up, I am asking as I had the Rover out for the longest drive its been on in a while ( about a whole 30 miles) but brought it up to full speed and it was up and down hills etc, the water temp gauge came up to half way and stayed there, same with oil gauge, but when I stopped the water in the expansion tank was lukewarm / tepid? Is this normal? or could I have an underlying problem?.
I am also getting a lot of white/grey smoke on every start up which dissapears after a few minutes, could this be related looking through my search here it seems to be throwing up all kinds of things ( head gasket being the worst yet).
Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Chris.
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Asked the same on EMLRA, got this reply ( after I had changed all my studs for the long 60mm ones).
I see no reason that it's not a genuine reply, but I have not personally seen the instruction.
AESP 2320-D-122-811 MODIFICATION INSTRUCTION No. 36:-
INTRODUCTION
1
1.1 The decision has been made to carry out a campaign change of the DEFENDER wheel rim to the DEFENDER(HS)WOLF wheel rim, in complete vehicle sets (qty 5).
1.2 The DEFENDER used a tubeless (7.50x16) tyre fitted with an inner tube on a tubed type rim. The tyres currently in use on the vehicle can be changed over to the new tubless rim utilising a 'snap-in' rubber valve. Due to the heavier construction of the replacement rim, the wheel nut torque has been increased to 170 Nm (125lb ft) to compensate for this.
Replacement wheel brace to be demanded and placed with CES to cope with increased wheel torque. Securing the wheel nuts as described is technically safe and road legal, even though the wheel stud does not protrude all the way through the nut.
Well, there you have it .
The increase in wheel nut torque is most important (so important that Modification Instructions include for a data plate to be fitted to the instrument binnacle cover, centrally above the fuel gauge, advising of revised wheel torque).
The replacement wheel brace is the standard Wolf type :NSN 7XD 5120 99 817 1229 (LANDROVER Pt No. NTC 7829)
Hope this comes as a kind of end to the WOLF wheel/older 90-110 question.
Chris.
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Got all the new bits for under a tenner so will replace them on monday. It is the banjo bolt that wont go back in, it doesn't seem to have sheared or broken in any way, it just won't grab a thread, came out normally and easy enough?, could I just use some loctite or glue if I cant get it?. The clip/fixing strap was not attached to the box when I took it apart, should it be fixed to any specific bolt?.
Thanks again,
Chris.
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It most certainly does,
Thank you kindly for that, exactly what I needed to know.
Chris.
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Right then, a few pics to see if anyone can identify exactly what I need to buy,
Part 1+2 have sheared along the blue dots in the first pic, part 1 in the second pic is the same bit as part 1 in the first pic.
Incidently, part 3 on the first pic is some type of tube attached to a bolt, and I removed it to get access to another nut and cant tighten it up again, the bolt doesn't look broken but it is hollow?, any suggestions.
Cheers,
Chris.
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Hi, thanks for the replies, I tried a search but I dont even know the correct name of what I'm looking for so I cant really narrow it down. I will get a pic tommorow and post it to see if that helps,
Cheers,
Chris.
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Hi,
Trying to diagnose why my warning light wouldn't come on for high/low/diff, found there was a broken linkage between the small gear lever and the transfer box.
It's an old LT77 G/box, and I dont know what type the T/box is. So can I get a new linkage, or is it one of these all in one type units that cost lots of pennies?.
I would really even appreciate a part no' or the correct name for the linkage.
Cheers,
Chris.
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Hi all,
I am having to consider getting a new sender for my Ex MOD 110, but I just cant for the life of me figure out what one to get???.
The chassis number is SALLDHAC7BA????, It is a bog standard 2.5N/A DERV on an '86 plate.
any help would allow my fuel gauge to start working again
.Cheers,
Chris.
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Shame nobody thought of prefixing WMIK or EWMIK with 7XD or WOLF, that way companies could have charged twice as much?.
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Hello,
was speaking to someone who had a fob for his Disco11 that raised and lowered the air suspension, he said as far as he knew it was an easy fitted thing, but didn't know what it was called, or where you get it from.
He pressed a button on a fob and the back went down, then pressed again and the back went up.
Is this thing/kit available to buy, and if so from where/what cost etc?.
Thanks
Chris.
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Hi all,
I am looking to swop the steering wheel on my old 110, it has at the moment the basic 90/110 4 spoke, with rectangular middle,
I want to put a TD5 steering wheel on, how simple, (or hard) is this?.
I seem to recall someone saying I need to change the whole steering column?, is this correct, and what is that likely to set me back?
Chris.
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Oh dear,That sounds both expensive, and hard, is it?.
Seeing as snapping the drain plug on my sedimentor has so far cost me over 70 quid in parts ( long storey), Is this somthing that could be attempted by a mechanical biff?, and whats likely cost?.
Thanks,
Chris.
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Hiya,
With the wonderfull advice I have been given on this forum, I wonder if anyone can inform me why my fuel gauge isn't reading correctly?.
It mostly shows a full tank, and although I wish this was the case, I very much doubt it is, but sometimes it just shows completley empty. As I am not driving the Rover at the moment, there is no way either is correct?
Its an '86 110 2.5N/A Derv, if that makes any difference.
Thanks,
Chris.
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Martin,
Thanks for that I never even thought of looking in that.
Few wee queries........
9. Use LRT-60-009 to remove nut securing actuator to long arm. is there an alternative?, if not where would I get this?.
Any idea how you 8. Bleed ACE hydraulic system on the refit?
Thanks again,
Chris.
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Hi,
Not to sure if it's connected, theres no reason it shouldn't be. How would I check?.
Chris.
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Hello folks,
Jumped over from the Mil forum to ask about this one.
My father has a TD5 Disco and has orderred a new A.C.E. actuator and was wondering if there is anybody who knows of a fitting guide, or any hints/tips when doing this job.
My mechanical knowledge is non existant for basic Rovers, never mind these new fangled thingies.
So could anyone provide me with any help I can pass on to him?.
Thanks,
Chris.
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Hi Western,
The sedimentor is on the N/S rear chassis leg, just at the fuel tank, The pipes are metal with a thin plastic sheath. Reaaly need to get this done properly, can you buy fuel line the way you can buy lengths of brake line?.
Chris
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Hi, I don't know, sorry.
What woould this indicate if I wasn't?
Chris.
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Hi all,
agin my hopeless mechanical skills have left me in bother, I basically made a **** of fitting a new sedimentor. I now require a new piece of fuel line. From tank to sedimentor, (about 10-12"). Can I buy these, or preferably, could I get one made up, and who would do such a thing?.
I dont even have the broken one as its bodge fitted to the rubber hose I had to reconnect it with.
I don't even know what type fittings are on it, they seemed to be (roughly) 3/8" pipe with olives and screw fittings,?????
Any advice welcomed,
Thanks,
Chris.
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Thanks a million guys, that is great, went to do it this afternoon, ran the wires etc, and the flippin battery was dead !!!!!!.
Thanks again,
Chris.
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Well its me again with another problem I cant bodge.
I very nearly have my 110 up to putting it through its MOT, only prob is my headlights wont work.
On the O/S (drivers) I have a working dip, but no main, when I put the main on (O/S) it switches the light off?,
on the N/S(passenger) I have nothing at all, I have swopped the units around and both units work on dip on the O/S but niether work on the N/S.
I have tried new earths but got nothing, fuses are all fine and working?, any ideas?.
Chris.
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Hiya, Thanks Les,
Do you mean I am aiming at the wrong hole ( ooh err), and there is another one next to ( below left) the one circled?, I hope you do, as I am starting to despair on this one.
Cheers,
Chris.
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headlights
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Western,
once again thanks for your help,
I have looked carefully at the two light units and I can't see any arrows??,
I personally don't think the MOT man is correct, and I think that the lights are just very badly seated in the mount.
To elaborate: if I was to look at the headlight glass as it is at the moment; it has a different shaped section on the RHS of the glass circle; kind of enlarged, almost like it would alter the shine at the left side of the light, does that make sense?