cw01
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Posts posted by cw01
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Hi all, I would like to fit a reverse light to my 110.
I got what I was told was the correct switch, but either its the wrong switch, or i am trying to put it in the wrong position?.
Could anyone help me out?.
This is where I was told it was meant to go, and if you look just above the opening, at the front lip you'll see a brass type bolt thingy. that was supposedly the correct switch, but I was told it had to go in the marked opening, and thats not correct.
thanks,
Chris.
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Guys,
Thank you,
You dont know how much of a relief that is. It makes this job easy now.
Thanks again,
Chris
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Help needed as I stupidly connected the battery up wrong way round
resulting in the lead that comes out the alt melting. I have fabricated a new lead and plug, but my problem now is I have cut the wires at the far end ( bulkhead end) with one cut, and now I cant figure out the correct way to join the two large brown wires. I know its a 50/50 chance of getting it right or wrong, so if i get it wrong, what further damage am I likely to do?Do the two thick brown wires do the same thing?, or is there another solution to ny problem?.
Piccys might help, so here goes
Its this wire i've melted
its this end I need to connect, but dont know how to make sure the brown wires are connected the right way round.
Your help would be greatly appreciated, as I hope to do this tommorow.
chris.
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I have ruined the sedimentor on my ex MOD 110. I tried to get the ( snapped, and wing nut broken ) drain plug out using a drill, and the new one wont fit correctly, so I presume i've ruined the threads. any suggestions?, or do I need a whole new sedimentor?, it's the one on the nearside rear chassis leg if that makes a difference.
Chris.
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'Lo all,
I am trying various forums to try to get an answer to this.
Does anybody know the difference between the wing mounted, and side stalk mounted aerial mounts ( BOWMAN variety).
I know the wing mounted ones have some kind of tuning ring under them, but are there any other differences?.
Could anyone provide me with the thickness of this ' tuning ring' part?.
Or even better, does anyone know of any screw on antenna stalks for the mounts for sale?.
Chris.
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Sorry if this is in wrong place, but I would like to add a flasher unit to the headlights of my 1986 Military 110( slightly illegal I know), but the unit says it can't be used on vehicles with 'GROUND SWITCHED HEADLIGHTS' would my Rover be likely to have these?
Thanks,
Chris.
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Oh well, its just another thing to stick on the Rover till I can find a tube. I have the older one piece bit but it's for a soft top.
Keeping the hard top on as it was a bugger to store more than anything else, it was being used as a shelf, and the dogs also took a liking to it.
Do you have any access to the updated wolf cat' ( as I'm sure there must be one by now).
Looking forward to seeing your new project.
Cheers,
Chris.
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Thanks Karl,
Any idea where I could get a hard top 'tube bit' from?,
Cheers,
chrisd.
P.S
Your WMIK looks amazing, well done.
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Hi,
Not up to speed with this WOLF bit, but what is the spare wheel mount that doesn't have the tube/chimney part on it?, it just has three holes on a slightly raised part of the back plate.
Can be seen here...........
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110461945052&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Is there a specific part that screws on for either the hard top or soft top?, if so does any body have the correct part no'?
Thanks,
Chris.
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The Rover is a 12v ffr model, I have only tried to change all the lights from bug eye type to NAS type ( the NAS ones were from a WOLF vehicle so they were all 24v bulbs). the lights all worked before. I have not yet wired up the front lights, would this make a difference. Also the headlights are not working correct. one dim and one normal??????
Pulling my hair out now. and trying to do it on your own doesn't help either.
Cheers again,
Chris
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Problems, problems, problems.
The lights are all 24v units with the bulbs replaced to 12v, no LED. I knew this wasn't going to be a simple fix, but this is only the begining. The lights all worked before I cut wires?.
Chris.
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ARGHH
I am having a complete nightmares wiring up some WOLF/NAS spec lights to my old 110.
I am completely useless as a mechanic, but am even more useless at having spare money, so I have to do it myself.
First ( of many ) problems is my indicaters work with the new lights, but only on the hazard switch, not with the indicater switch?, Any ideas why.
Chris.
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Seen this and thought of you.
Apparently comoes with filter?.
I can recomend buying from Bok ( Peter), I have bought from him and found him to be very reliable and honest.
Cheers,
Chris.
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Hello all,
I know its not a Defender, but I need to change the complete exhaust on my '86 110.
I have all the pipes, and the fitting kit, but unfortuneatly I am a complete biff.
I have no fitting instructions, nor can I find any.
Would any one be able to assisit me with how to do this?, or point me in the direction
of fitting instructions.
Cheers,
Chris.
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Was your back door murdered or did it just evaporate X-File stylee?
That's a lot of work but it is looking good.
Marc.
I know, what with the door, the ectoplasm on the wheel arches ( really just laziness, and non removal of masking tape), and the shoity camera settings, it looks quite spooky
Chris.
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Had a lot of help from this forum, and although it is not yet where I want it, I thought I would post you all some pics of my project.
I have posted this thread on a few forums, so De Ja Vu is o.k
I started of with a bog standard ( and battered ) 110 FFR from the 1986 era.
I used it for a few years, then dry stored it. During this time I developed a really strong 'lust' for the wolf(XD)defender, so I started buying bits as and when they became available. I was in no rush so got quite a few serious bargains, and I mean real bargains, especially when you look at the price of wolf bits just now.
So here are a few pics............
The day I bought 16:KF:26
My first changes to it ( soft top and new boots )
My next changes, some radio kit,
It then went into a lock up for nigh on 10 years. During this time I pretty much didn't touch it, then it saw light again....... ( apart from a new battery this beast started on the first turn of the engine) My faith had just incresed 10 fold in the tractor 2.5 NA derv engine.And 'yes' the tyres had all stayed inflated, I swear.
So I started to add all the fancy new bits ( which was enjoyable ), and also started removing the MOD paint ( which really, really was NOT enjoyable)
First, the new roll bar
Then the rest of the cage
Then the cab surrounds
Then its nice new jumper
New side locker covers
New tailboard and mounts
Few wee straighteney outy bits
Some internals done
Almost there, now decision time, hard or soft top~?
Soft ?.
Hard?.
As I said still a few bits and bobs to get on with, namely side stalks in wrong place, side indicators to fit, few blanking bits to fit, few lights to be wired up, new exhaust to fit,tow strop( bonnet) fixings and probably a few more bits and bobs that the drink has allowed me to forget about.
Once again,
Thanks for all help provided, and I will update this thread on completion.
Chris.
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Yeah,
Thats the page I can't find,
Thanks, again.
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Excellent,
Thanks for your help, didn't realise the wee hole halfway up the body was made of rubber.
Thanks again,
Chris.
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Thanks guys,
Handle moved after a bit of force, now works fine, just need to know how much oil to put in it.
Chris.
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Hi all, have posted this in defender forum aswell, but seeing as its a RR jack I thought I'd ask here too.
Recently ( erm, today actually) got a range rover bottle jack to put in my wolf replica, but when it arrived the bleed screw had come out and some of the oil ( unknown quantity) had leaked out. Now I know the replacement oil is ESSO Invarol EP22, so is this the only alternative?, and how do I know how much to put in?.
Also when I tried the jacking lever it wouldn't move, is there a common reason for this?, or have I just bought a duffer?.
It was from Evil bay.
Thanks,
Chris.
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Hello all,
I have lost the page from my wolf catalouge that has the part no's for a few bits I need. Could anyone help me out?.
The parts are,
the flat bar that holds the fire extinguisher and bracket onto the bulkhead.
The plate that holds the bottle jack on the bulkhead,
any other bits that fit on the bulkhead ( except rifle mount bits).
Thanks,
Chris.
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Hi all,
recently ( erm, today actually) got a range rover bottle jack to put in my wolf replica, but when it arrived the bleed screw had come out and some of the oil ( unknown quantity) had leaked out. Now I know the replacement oil is ESSO Invarol EP22, so is this the only alternative?, and how do I know how much to put in?.
Also when I tried the jacking lever it wouldn't move, is there a common reason for this?, or have I just bought a duffer?.
It was from Evil bay.
Thaanks,
Chris.
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Thanks guys,
any idea how I would go about changing from the old to new?, Bearing in mind I have all the new light units.
resulting in the lead that comes out the alt melting. I have fabricated a new lead and plug, but my problem now is I have cut the wires at the far end ( bulkhead end) with one cut, and now I cant figure out the correct way to join the two large brown wires. I know its a 50/50 chance of getting it right or wrong, so if i get it wrong, what further damage am I likely to do?
LT77 Reverse light switch.
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Hi, thanks for the quick reply Western.
Even that switch doesn't look right.
The blanking plug I have in the pic is a big ( about 7/8" - 1" diameter x 3/4"- 1" [from memory] depth) bung with a 1/2" square hole in the middle, once removed there is not really much space between where the plug was removed and a flat piece of metal?
If it makes any difference, the Rover has never had a reverse light fitted.
Chris.