Thys
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Posts posted by Thys
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Get yourself a spring balance
Disconnect the TRE and use the hook in the hole in the arm on the swivel. Pull on the balance in line with where the steering arm was so as to move the swivel. Just before the swivel moves (or after initial resistance is over come) the balance should read 4lbs without the swivel oil seal fitted, or in your case 12lbs with the oil seal fitted.
I would start by removing the thinnest shim first. Also support the hub with a jack so that the weight of the hub doesn't cause the seal around the swivel to open up and let the oil out................but then if you are using one-shot grease.......
Must one remove the calliper, as the flexable brake fluid hose must shurly have an effect on the force required to move the swivel?
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It looks like they've removed the files now.
I downloaded most of them before so if you need any just say what you are after
Big John, thanks for the Body Manual, Jim gave me the link for the full manual. My mailbox will not accept more than 3 MB, but my Internet link can.
Thanks again for all the effort.
I am now a happy reader of good literature.
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Thys, on the Landyonline forum is a link to the Disco I manual. I know, I put it there. Can't post it here because that would get the forum into trouble with LR.
http://landyonline.co.za/landyforum/viewto...p?f=4&t=856
If you send me your postal address by pm, I can post you a DVD with just about every LR digital manual on it except for the latest models.
Jim, thanks a lot, I DL'd the file, much appreciated.
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hi, i downloaded the two manuals for a discovery 1 from the same site -
1, Land rover Discovery Workshop1995-1996 - 14.5 MB
2, Discovery Body Repair manual - 2.72 MB
let me know if you want me to email them to you.
Big John.
Thanks for the offer Big John, I will PM you my E-mail adress, but I am not sure what my max E-mail per message size is, but let's try, I am after both the Discovery 1 files.
Cheers
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Hi, I always managed to download the LR manuals from the LandRover.ee site but now get:
"Object not found!
The requested URL was not found on this server. The link on the referring page seems to be wrong or outdated. Please inform the author of that page about the error.
If you think this is a server error, please contact the webmaster.
Error 404
www.landrover.ee
Tue Sep 16 21:49:17 2008
Apache/2.0.49 (Linux/SuSE) ".
These are probably the same as the Rave CD's, but they are not as big, and already in PDF, thus no fancy software required. Any one else tried this site lately?
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Hi my guess would be your preload's or poss a mix of preload's and loose or worn wheel bearings.
Good morning Disco-Al,
I went through the same pains, and eventually found the source to be the "dead-ahead" free play on the steering box. My Disco I 300 Tdi's steering box has an adjustment bolt on top of the steering box. This adjuster is locked with a nut. The top of the adjuster takes an Allen key. The Haynes and land Rover Manuals describes the "hand-on" method to do the check and adjustment.
I followed the instructions, and no more shimmy.
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What causes the radiator fins to deteriorate like that, and the body/chassis to corrode so badly, is it the sea air or do they still spray a salt solution on the roads to prevent ice forming, or is the mud, when off-roading, corrosive?
Maybe I am spoiled, as I live +/- 700 kms from the coast, and we do not have ice forming on our roads, but we usually give the LR's a good high pressure under body cleanup after off roading.
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My Disco's sun roof rattles in both the open positions, to such extend that I do not drive with the sun roof open on a bad (corrugated) road, in fear that the shaking will cause the glass to break. Is this also the 4 guides, or the other two oval bushes warn out?
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Thanks cipx2, suppose I could have gone that way.
What I do find intriguing is that the complainants are mostly people buying brand new and obviously the top of the range versions of a LR series, and they are totally Dependant on a Dealership for technical assistance.
The moment one is more in control of one's LR maintenance, and you do it/have it done correctly, the frustrations seems to go away.
Having said that I accept that not every LR owner is technically gifted, and unfortunately they are, many times, the victims.
If you like a marque, you will enjoy it, respect it, and look after it. My late father, and myself owned FIATs for many years, without any of the frustrations an problems many people said we would experience. I've owned FIAT, Datsun, Chev, Renault, VW's, Mercedes and Land Rover, and to date have the greatest respect for all of the cars I owned. My dad owned Anglia, Austins, Opel, Mitsubishi Colt Galant, Vw and he was also very happy with all the marques he owned.
There may be exceptions, but the reward for respectfully handling of a vehicle pays you back with good service.
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Could you make it a little big bigger, just big enough to read.
Good evening q-rover,
I tried, but my PC software is playing tricks on me, in the meantime I edited the Editor's note, with a very brief summary of the letter. Once I have the bugs out of my PC, I will blow-up the letter and note to legible size.
Sorry for the minute image.
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I read the attached letter written to a Magazine called "noseweek". This Magazine is notorious for it's investigative, factual reporting, sometimes cutting to the bone, and stepping on really "big" toe's. I stand to be corrected, but they do stay out of trouble by checking their facts.
The editor's reply may or may not go down well with all LR fans, but my wife really enjoyed the note, apparently she now understand the LR and a portion of her husbands way of living
I somehow cannot get the copy of the page legible, so I will quote the editors note:
"You didn't know? Land Rovers are not intended for motoring, they are sold as hobby kits for car maintenance enthusiasts who like to spend their weekends in overalls, on their backs- underneath their vehicles with a set of spanners. - Ed."
The letter was a serious complaint against Land Rover, by a Discovery II TD5 owner, whose TD5 was replaced by the National LR Group, with a Disco II V8, but his experience was even worse, he took on the National LR Group. And then this reply from the Editor.
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I have a dimmer fitted to the dash lights of my '96 300TDi and to read the Odo I have to turn it right up and really focus on the numbers - its always been like that and I think its just as a result of poor light distribution inside the binnacle - I've even changed to LEDs for all the dash lighting and its made no difference!
Not very helpfull, but at least you know you're not alone!
As for the striping of the thing - its easy enough to do, a few screws and snap connectors and it's all in your hands, then the clocks come out easy enough - mine get a yearly spring clean and the whole job only takes an hour.......
Thanks Stageonesimmo.
My Discovery has the very basic trim and fittings, no dash light dimmer, thus the lighting density is allready max. At least I now know that it is an inherent factory/design problem.
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The one thing that is starting to bother me on my Disco I 300 is the fact that even in day light, I need a flash light to read the odometer and trip meter, the white numbers seems to covered in a gray soot, or the white numbers are fading away. Is there any way to fix this? I am prepared to open the cluster, but if it is not worth the effort, I won't go that route.
I zero my trip meter each time I fill the tank, so that is my life line when traveling long distances. I do not have the luxury of a GPS, I still use those wonderful colored books called maps.
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Just a thought Thys. It may not be your TC at all. Is your driving partner happy, or should you be at home redecorating instead of doing a spot of bush bashing?
Both.......
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Thanks for the link Jim.
The standard answer to any after market oil/fuel/coolant additive; if it is such a wonder additive, why does the manufacturers not include it in their product?
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Thanks Chipx2, I will look for that grade, and Jim, I have started a bananna diet.......
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Thanks FirstFleet and Jim, I will follow up the contacts given.
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My Discovery's tranfer box has a high pitched whine at speeds 80km/h and up, no grinding noises (yet), oil levels fine and no metal in oil.
Was advised that PTFE additive (50ml) may lessen the whine. Has any one tried this before,or have knowladge of PTFE additives?
I was told that to open the trasnsfer box and have it "repaired", will not guarantee the whine going away.
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And with the downturn of the economy, I reckon a lot of people who can't afford the repayments on their vehicles will suddenly have them 'hijacked' rather than repossessed.
This normally also the time that bargains appear, people tend to over react and gets rid of their V8's, diesls etc. Watch Auto Trader and the likes, as well as the financing companie's reposession auctions, they normally only want what is outstanding, and if one looks carefully, very nice bargains come on the floor.
Oops, sorry, thread hijack. -
Who in their right mind would steal a Disco anyway?
I have immobilisers etc fitted to keep the insurance happy, and then disconnect them. If the car does get stolen it will be the robbers who did it, of course.
Jim, apparently not so rare, if you recall the spate of 4x4 hijacking/thefts in game reserves on the Mosamiquan border, many were Land Rovers, I admit, I do not know what models.
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Hi Renq, I see that you are from Gauteng, reason for my remark is that many Gauteng vehicles are forcibly equipped with after market tracker system, the insurance companies likes these goodies.
Now my story: My Discovery's battery started running down, within one-and-a-half day, a lot of testing and eventually it was found to be the tracking device. They have their built-in batteries, but when the built-in battery fails, they tap the vehicles battery, but the vehicle system is too rough and eventually messes the tracking system up. I had mine removed, and that cured the problem. These tracking systems needs to be checked annually, or they can cause battery havoc.
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Thanks, I will, the tolerances are so close i suppose it won't make much difference. With a bit of luck it will be mobile Friday morning. Rocky
Rocky, I can't recall if it was mentioned, but please check the valve stand down measurements, before putting the head back, I trusted the engineering works, and they had the stan down values exactly on the minimum value, which cost me removing the head again, this time I had them cut the seats to a stand down value between minimum and maximum values. The Tdi head has a lot of "meat" in the valve seat.
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Have been using the Tippex for years and it's a very reliable method - if you are interrupted while using an angle gauge you can lose track of which ones have been tightened .
With the Tippex a glance tells you which ones have been tightened . Make sure the bolt heads are clean so that the Tippex grips well and put all the marks at the same position .
Dooroy, you are correct in that if one is busy with the torque sequence using the angle gauge, and you are interrupted, you will be trouble if you do not remember your last bolt torqued. I had a photostat of the page indicating the head bolts and drew a table, indicating the four stages, and the bolt numbers, ticked it off as I progressed, takes more time but I had to use my home made angle gauge
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Soon after I bought my Disco I 300 Tdi, I noted that the left front light on dim (low), would sometimes not light up immediately, only when I flicked the brights (high beam) will the light recover. This has been going for a long time, but as the problem disappeared when flashing the lights I left it. I got worse inn that now occasionally both low and high beam was intermittent. I suspected the globe, replaced it, no improvement. Shook the left front harness, and the light flickered, now I got concerned, looking for a weak wire in a harness can be a pain. I was also looking for a earth (negative continuity) fault.
As a precaution I removed the air filter box, and discovered an earth (negative) terminal floating on a stud, that is fixed to the body, the nut and washer missing. Replaced the washer and nut, screwed the terminal back in place and away goes the light problem.
This one was easy and quick to repair.
IIRC
in Discovery Forum
Posted
I know we have to save bytes on our Internet cap, but we are slowly getting into the sick American acronym disease, I am involved in a lot of American Technical literature, and it takes half the time reading the publication, the other half is spent on jumping back and forth to the abbreviation pages.
Just my opinion