zulublue
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Posts posted by zulublue
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Mud Console for me, does the job a treat.
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It's not there for looks, Tacky how rude
Did you ask who sold them? I might be........
Only Joking 
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I would agree a 'proper' gauge is better than the standard affairs, but personally I would have a decent analogue one like a VDO, rather than the digital ones. They look a bit tacky in my opinion, more boy racer than Land Rover
Still, each to his own
It's not there for looks, Tacky how rude
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True but as long as the needle is on 30 or below you are sure to ok!!
I wish larger tyres sorted that out!
I think the point is, for a ship or something with rows of guages then yes the priciple of speed of sight works well, however for a Landy with around say 6, accuracy is more important, do you know where boiling point is on your guage? just think the digital option is better suited to this application. IMO of course
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you don't want to know you are doing 26.6 mph, just under 30.
You may want to know your doing 33.6 in a 30 though
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I had the same issue when i swapped my engine block from a defender to a disco unit, although all casings were refitted so to look at it it's a defender engine, however the temp guage just sat on the top of the white bit (I don't run a fan either, gone electric) anyhow it was bugging me that I did not know what was happeneing so I went digital. cost £20 and a bit of soldering.
Got it from here
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Mark the 200Tdi is one of the best for keeping cool, I had similar concerns and moved to a digi gauge, it has never been over 83 I don't even have a fan on it now apart from an electric one just in case the rad gets blocked when playing.
My reason for the change was I fitted one of the X-Thermostats from Simon art X-Eng, but it never came on (this is in the bottom hose as I feel the rad should do it's job first) so the temp at the top is now a steady 82 no wonder it never came on.
Glad all seems well.
Have a great trip.
Mark.
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Hi Adam, I think we are of different thoughts, it sounds like you are talkiing about a defender axel which I havw now swapped to a Disco 1 axel. On the Disco axel the halfshaft is put in afterwards and not the same as the defender, which you have to strip the hub down, thus why I changed.
But thank you anyway
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This is the closest pic I can get to the part I have had to trim, but it has not moving bearings inside, and sits on the inner halfshaft.
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Hi Tony,
New Swivel is on, the inner halfshaft has gone back in (part with the brass bush on it that locates in to the diff), CV fits on to the inner halfshaft (with this bush behind it) Stub axle on to the cv and conect to swivel housing, but when done up it locks tight.
I will try to find a pic
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Hi, as you can see from above I have had a frustrated day to say the least, I wont bore you with all the detail but I decided to renew the swivel the seals, bearings and disks.
This is a Disco 1 axle on the front of my 90.
The fun stated when I put the stub axle back on, it caused the swivel to seize solid, I undid the bolts a little and all was fine, I tried and tried for hours to get it to work I checked part numbers on microcat and all was as it should be, I removed the swivel again!!!!! sat it by the old one and could not really see any difference.
The only thing I could do to fix this problem was to skim 2mm off the bush that sits between the CV and the driveshaft flange (please excuse terminology).
So I am now left guessing what went wrong, was it a manufacturing problem on the swivel (yes it is a britpart one) this is the only logical thing I could and still can think of, or have I made a silly error? Can you advise if my solution to the probelem will cause any issues?
Mark.
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This is what I used from Mud-Stuff
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Looks great Tommi
Is the Turbo boost gauge easy to fit?
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Where did ya get the guages from?
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Just extend the wires using a correct connector, you can always easily remove them if need.
Are you building your own dash? I just swapped my gauges over and if I need more I will add pods to the top of the dash.
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Is it definitely a defender block? it may look like a defender engine but I found this out after I hydro-locked my engine, I purchased a disco engine and stripped it down just so I had the block left, I bolted on my defender parts all fits fine, just had to move a couple of studs on the back, filled it with 6.8 ltrs of oil and it was double over the high level, as i knew the amount I had put in was correct I just remarked the dipstick and all is well.
So I guess the question is does the Disco dip stick go in further than a defender one, Ooo errr Mrs
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Hi All,
I have blown my 10 spline diff and casing on the rear of my 90, It has a 93 disco axle on it.
I also had the nearside front of the 90 lock up on me and threw me all over the road last week on the way back from Avon Dassett, now the front is still a defender axle which I think the CV has collapsed, I am now looking at options to fix this and I dont know whether to:
Buy a 10 spline Disco or RRC axle for the front, remove the diff in the defender axle (if its ok) and put it in the rear.
Or
Swap to 24 spline axles, I have never twisted a half shaft, but have done a couple of diffs.
IIRC the set up of a 24 spline rear diff is different (doughnut coupling or something)
Any advice !!!
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There is a number of things to look at before you adjust the steering box, check the steering UJ's especially the bottom one grab the steering column and give it a good push and pull you will see if it moves, very easy job to do.
You can also check your bushes as mentioned, main focus on
- Radius arm
- Trailing Arm
- A Frame
- Pan hard Rod
After that and if all seems ok adjust the steering box, but no more that 1/4 of a turn at a time, use some tipex to mark the original position.
Good Luck.
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Have you seen this Guy's, look like a decent deal to me.
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Thanks Gwyn, look forward to the delivery.
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I have just ordered a Gwyn Lewis wide angle prop for the front of the 90, is there a certain way this should go on, spline sleeve at the top or bottom, the props I have fitted before I have put the sleeve towards the bottom so to let water out if any gets in.
Any other thoughts on this welcome.
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Perhaps my rad is really efficient
Dave how have you wired the thermostat up.have you gone, power in to thermostat switch and then out to fan
or
power in to thermostat switch out to relay back to fan?
I would love to know why mine has never worked, what temperature difference could I expect to get from the input to rad temp and the output temp?
I have been at the point for 4 months now where I dont have the thermostat wired up, the fan is now manual off a switch.
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I put mine in the top hose as I already had a joint in it. I think it brings the fan on too early and I think could do with a higher temp. thermostat. Ideally it should be in the bottom hose so that it's detecting the temp. of the water going back to cool the engine and so indicating that the airflow through the rad isn't dissipating enough heat on it's own and requires assistance.
HTH
Mo
Thanks Mo,
This is what I have done, but ALL last year it never came on, I have now fitted a digital gauge and sender, so lets see what the summer brings, 83 degrees is the highest its gone so far, no wonder it never came on.
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I see a few of you have the X-Eng thermostat, can I ask of the 200 and 300 owners where you have put the X-Eng stat, top or bottom hose?
Only Joking 
satin black
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Here's Mine, went for Black Silver theme and used a paint called Hard Hat, from the construction industry.