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o_teunico

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Posts posted by o_teunico

  1. Built in Japan and sold as Mitsubishi, Peugeot and Citroen C-Zero.

    64hp and a tad more torque than a diesel 2.25. A written of donor could make a great starting point for a conversion.

    Unlike a 300+hp Tesla motor swap, maintaining similar to stock power will make it legal to retain original brakes an no major modifications will be needed.

     

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  2. Hi all,

    Has someone ever tried to discard shacles and run a flat end leaf setup?

    An inverted "U" shape clip will provide lateral location ant that way the leafs could dislocate for extra wheel drop (with longer shocks).

    Pictured Bill van Snolkel's (aka William Larnam) Wildfing, with telescopic shackles and a suspension flex that dislocating leafs could emulate.

    leaf-spring-1.jpg

    Screenshot_20201101-022230.png

  3. Hi all, 

    Been some months without visiting the forum.

    Due to limited budget I'm selling some parts of my 88 project. Cost of parts not a problem, but obtaining an engineer's approval here in Spain for beeing road legal is over three times what I paid for the landy!

    Big modifications, like coiler axles, engine swap, big tyres are now out of the list for me.

    My "wide" axles  will be just big offset wheels (that is about 150€ for the engineer's report + 70€ at MoT station for the new track width beeing written in our V5 equivalent).

    So, how can I (cheaply) convert my Santana (factory disc brake) to CV?

    After some searching at this forum I undestand that converting railkos to bearings and some grinding will make space for AEU2522 CVs.

    But, what about stub axles?

    I dont want complete coiler swivels, since I have a Santana PAS that will only work with series swivels.

    Gremlin said that early RR stubs fit series swivels, done before in this forum. Who? How? Part numbers? Difference between early RR and later coiler parts?

    TIA

  4. On 10/5/2019 at 12:03 PM, Bowie69 said:

    the testing has to be done for each body variant, so SWB, LWB, but also estate, pickup, chassis cab, van, hi cap, double cab pickup, and who knows what else

    Again, easy to solve. Rover had just one body option back in 1948. Doors, canvas or whatever else needed to be purchased separately.

    Dfender 90 NAS where going to be marketed that way, but finally were not because of the logistics involved in stocking and delivering canvas and hardtops all along USA.

    https://jalopnik.com/that-time-mercedes-made-four-cars-in-one-1760123043/amp

     

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  5. 10 hours ago, BogMonster said:

    need more engine braking from an auto you can always pop it in reverse and feather the throttle :ph34r:

    Have thought about that, but aparently will make the box to explode ;-).

    I'm not thinking about auto conversion for my 88. I have a bmw m51 engine, ex Opel Omega, with non electronic Bosch ve6 pump. Not fitted yet, as I have not decided what box to use. A Bertone Freeclimber box/transfer has nearly the same gearing as a Series stock box.

    My 88 left the Santana factory with 2.25D, LT85, LT230 and 3.54s. Previous owner fitted 4.7 diffs. That combo is lower than stock, but not as much as I would have expected.

    So, for my convesion I'm considering a torque converter with manual! TC will emulate an underdrive and will avoid stalling the engine. Nothing new. Used today by ZF for heavy haulage. In lighter applications was popular between 30 to 60s. Plymouth HyDrive, Porsche Sportomatic, VW Autostick...

    A manually locking TC will be the best, but I don't know If I could make the lockup work when not used as expected with an auto box.

     

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  6. Well, these days I have been reading a bit about torque converters and auto boxes.

    As far as I have undersood, older non computer controlled boxes will lock up the converter only in 4th gear above 50mph.

    So, at low speeds, it will never lock and will "slip". 

    Now imagine: off road, downhill. Torque converter slipping and offering no engine braking. Brakes cause wheels to lock. 

    Is this what actually ocurs or automatics aren't that bad?

     

    Screenshot_20190923-162623.png

  7. Hi all, 

    My 88" is now on its third year of "baja temporal" status (Spain's equivalent to UK SORN).

    One year after last firing up. Flat battery lead to permanent damage.

    So, here is the question: has someone tried to connect one of those cheapo solar power systems intended for caravans to SORNed vehicles for maintaining the battery continiously topped?

  8. Hi all,

    Due to personal circumstances I'm not using this forum as frequently as I used to, but I'm still working on crazy vapour builds that I hope to build some day into my 88 (four years now with "baja temporal", Spain's equivalent to UK SORN).

    I may end, after an engine swap, with a gearbox and tbox combo with no transmisson handbrake.

    Has ever someone adapted some kind of axle handbrake to a disc brake LR rear axle?

    Maybe adapting some toyota cable operated calipers?

     

    Screenshot_20190412-113540.png

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