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o_teunico

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o_teunico last won the day on October 1 2016

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    http://www.facebook.com/rodrigo.aresllamazares

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  • Location
    Lugo (Spain)

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  • Interests
    Land Rover, Campers

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  1. Built in Japan and sold as Mitsubishi, Peugeot and Citroen C-Zero. 64hp and a tad more torque than a diesel 2.25. A written of donor could make a great starting point for a conversion. Unlike a 300+hp Tesla motor swap, maintaining similar to stock power will make it legal to retain original brakes an no major modifications will be needed.
  2. Hi all, According to what I have found on the web, an 88" rear shock absorber has bigger stroke than a air sprung Rangie one. Is this correct? Has the RR rear shock just 7" of travel?
  3. Thanks! Certainly much better early Defender stubs, easier to obtain. Defender cut and resplined halfshafts seem doable (I have 10 spline diff).
  4. Pictured vehicle are not revolvers, but some old hydraulic car jacks that allow drop and rotation. Not a road legal vehicle by the way...
  5. Hi all, Has someone ever tried to discard shacles and run a flat end leaf setup? An inverted "U" shape clip will provide lateral location ant that way the leafs could dislocate for extra wheel drop (with longer shocks). Pictured Bill van Snolkel's (aka William Larnam) Wildfing, with telescopic shackles and a suspension flex that dislocating leafs could emulate.
  6. Hi all, Been some months without visiting the forum. Due to limited budget I'm selling some parts of my 88 project. Cost of parts not a problem, but obtaining an engineer's approval here in Spain for beeing road legal is over three times what I paid for the landy! Big modifications, like coiler axles, engine swap, big tyres are now out of the list for me. My "wide" axles will be just big offset wheels (that is about 150€ for the engineer's report + 70€ at MoT station for the new track width beeing written in our V5 equivalent). So, how can I (cheaply) convert my Santana (factory disc brake) to CV? After some searching at this forum I undestand that converting railkos to bearings and some grinding will make space for AEU2522 CVs. But, what about stub axles? I dont want complete coiler swivels, since I have a Santana PAS that will only work with series swivels. Gremlin said that early RR stubs fit series swivels, done before in this forum. Who? How? Part numbers? Difference between early RR and later coiler parts? TIA
  7. Again, easy to solve. Rover had just one body option back in 1948. Doors, canvas or whatever else needed to be purchased separately. Dfender 90 NAS where going to be marketed that way, but finally were not because of the logistics involved in stocking and delivering canvas and hardtops all along USA. https://jalopnik.com/that-time-mercedes-made-four-cars-in-one-1760123043/amp
  8. As for the body design...they could buy from the Andalusian goverment (Santana) or iranian Moratab Pazhan the building rights for a real Land Rover body. They could even create an offshore company in Galicia, NW Spain, in the city of Viveiro. One of it's rural neighbourhoods is called LANDROVE. Perfect name for the car!
  9. Hi all, Both M51 and M57 list the plate where the bellhousing bolts to as ERR4378, but they have different drawings. One is one "round" piece, the other just half of it. Which is the correct number for the round one piece ? Is it exclusive to Land Rover or is same as BMW/Opel/Vauxhall?
  10. Hi all, Have seen adaptor plates/kits for matching the 2007 on Defender six speed gearbox Getrag GFT MT82 to 200, 300Tdi, Td5 and MB OM606. Has someone ever adapted it to a BMW M51/57 lump?
  11. A bit long, but this video explains the benefits of the system.
  12. Have thought about that, but aparently will make the box to explode ;-). I'm not thinking about auto conversion for my 88. I have a bmw m51 engine, ex Opel Omega, with non electronic Bosch ve6 pump. Not fitted yet, as I have not decided what box to use. A Bertone Freeclimber box/transfer has nearly the same gearing as a Series stock box. My 88 left the Santana factory with 2.25D, LT85, LT230 and 3.54s. Previous owner fitted 4.7 diffs. That combo is lower than stock, but not as much as I would have expected. So, for my convesion I'm considering a torque converter with manual! TC will emulate an underdrive and will avoid stalling the engine. Nothing new. Used today by ZF for heavy haulage. In lighter applications was popular between 30 to 60s. Plymouth HyDrive, Porsche Sportomatic, VW Autostick... A manually locking TC will be the best, but I don't know If I could make the lockup work when not used as expected with an auto box.
  13. Ok, thanks. The only auto vehicle I have droven off road was a Freelander. Really nice, I was able to complete the same course I made previously with a Defender. But that Freelander relyed in HDC for going downhill.
  14. Well, these days I have been reading a bit about torque converters and auto boxes. As far as I have undersood, older non computer controlled boxes will lock up the converter only in 4th gear above 50mph. So, at low speeds, it will never lock and will "slip". Now imagine: off road, downhill. Torque converter slipping and offering no engine braking. Brakes cause wheels to lock. Is this what actually ocurs or automatics aren't that bad?
  15. Can someone identify this pulley? Seen at Hardcastle's book.
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