Big_John
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Posts posted by Big_John
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Thanks Woody, I'm definitely going to need my own nanocom if I'm going to tackle this one, I can borrow one off a mate, but I suspect I'm going to be going through a few issues to get it working properly, so I'll get my own.
That linked document is great, thanks.
John
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Morning All,
Happy New Year everyone! It's been a while since I posted here, but I am a few weeks in to a '03 TD5 double-cab, so a whole host of new issues to sort out! (an 'upgrade' from the 300Tdi 90).
Currently on my mind is the alarm. As far as I can tell, this doesn't work at all. The light flashes about once a second all the time I'm driving, but doesn't come on at all when I lock with the central locking (key doesn't work in the door - another issue!). Also, possibly related, the interior light doesn't come on when the doors open - it's fine on the switch on the light, but not the doors.
I've assumed that both of these have been switched off in the ECU for some reason. I'm also assuming that the alarm was switched off because there was some issue with it, but maybe a previous owner had a dog and was getting false triggers? (here's hoping!). I don't get any warning sound if I try to lock with the door open.
So, a few questions if anyone can shed some light for me...
Can the lights and alarm be switched on/off in the ecu through Nanocom?
Does this mean that any toe-rag with a nanocom can break in and simply switch off the alarm and immobiliser?
Assuming there was some issue with either the alarm or immobiliser, how hard is it to diagnose and fix such issues - does nanocom tell me why the alarm was triggered so that I can fault-find it?
Does anyone know of a group-buy for nanocom atm?!
Is there a handy guide to the alarm/immobiliser somewhere?
Many thanks everyone,
John
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Phew, glad that's confirmed, could have been very embarrassing
!
On the top of the tank it says something like 'Fill to the mark indicated', but the line around the tank looks like a seam from the tank being made in two parts, rather than a fill mark - so I'd say it's not that clear which 'mark' they are referring to. There is also a post in the tank which appears to be at about the same level, so could be that as well!
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That's a very good point Bowie...I did check this but didn't come up with a definitive answer - I'm topping up to the seam line about half way up the tank.
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Thanks all...latest update...I topped up again and checked everywhere, no sign of a leak on the P gasket, hoses or anywhere else. Was towing again at the weekend, 100 miles, seemed to be fine, bit of a struggle on the hills (reasonably heavy box trailer), but cruising at 60 on the motorway without issues. On checking the coolant after, it had dropped about 1cm in the tank. Topped it up again before the drive back (not towing this time), again driving fine, cruising at 70 with no problem, after about 45mins I pulled in to the services, left the engine running and had a good look around, still no signs of leaking anywhere.
So I think it must be the head/gasket, hot or cold, there is no sign of an external leak. It's booked in on thursday to have the head off and inspected, so I'll let you know what happens.
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Thanks gents, will throw some more water in it this evening and take a good look.
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I definitely notice the heater throwing out more heat when it's topped up - haven't checked the top hose - will give it a try if it ever stops raining!
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Thanks Snagger,
To clarify, the water drops quickly to a pretty consistent level (just under 2L down) and stops there, it seems to be happy at this level for months and never gets over half-hot. I'm starting to wonder if the two are unrelated - looking on various forums there are lots of reports of white smoke in wet conditions for all makes of vehicle, and these are generally put down to normal condensation in the exhaust.
I'll top up the water again, let it idle for a while and take a really good look for leaks.
Thanks for confirmation on the cap mayo, I was hoping someone would say it's not that unusual!
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Thanks mads, I'll take a look at the weekend.
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Hi All,
I'm trying to work out what's up with my 300tdi defender...inconsistent symptoms :
Has always lost water with no obvious signs of where from (I've owned it for 10yrs and have always had to top it up)
It loses just under 2L of water in around 150miles or less, then stops losing it and will run at that level for months without issue, until I think about it and top it up again.
Occasionally billows loads of white, steamy smoke on startup (not necessarily when cold) for 30s to a minute, then clears. This only seems to happen when it's wet weather - either raining hard or foggy!
Never gets over 1/2 hot on the temp gauge, even when I was towing a heavy trailer last week.
Doesn't seem to be losing power, although as I said, it's always lost water since I bought it, so maybe it's always been down on power!
No troubles starting.
When I checked this morning there was some slight mayonnaise on the filler cap, which is the first time I've seen it, but nothing on the dip stick. I have topped the water up twice in the last week due to the towing, so it's got through a lot more water in a short space of time than it usually does.
No signs of oil in the water.
Any thoughts? Are the smoke and water loss related? What else can I check to narrow it down a bit more?
Thanks,
John
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Hi all,
Apologies for bringing up a slightly old thread, but wanted to add my 2p here...
I've been with NFU for about 6yrs now, since I bought the 90 (2" raised, hardtop converted to station wagon + a couple of other minor mods). Originally they were very competative but the last 3 years it's gone up by about £100 each year, I phoned them last year and managed to get £50 knocked off, but another £100 hike this year made it £700 with 8yrs no claims!
I phoned Adrian Flux and after taking of the breakdown cover has come in at £300 with all the mods declared so I'm very happy with that. For another £15 I could have sent them photos and got an agreed price, decided not to bother for now.
I tried Peter Best as well, but their 'classic' policy doesn't allow commuting and their standard policy doesn't allow mods...
John
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Is the alli one a crush washer like the copper one ?
It is, yes, although a wider, flatter profile than the copper ones curiously.
Why not save yourself the trouble of getting a new washer each time and get one of these....
http://shop.difflock...e6579f3b36463b2
You'll need the tube as well. No more oil up your armpit and no more sump plug in hot oil....
A nice idea, but that's £51 + postage and new washers are 50p inc. postage!
Thanks both, I've ordered 5 Ali washers off fleebay
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Hi all,
There are both copper and aluminium washers around, which one should I be using? It's got an ali one at the moment, but I've no idea if it's the correct one...or why they make both.
Can anyone shed any light?
Whilst we're at it, why do some people recommend changing the sump plug as well - surely they don't get an wear - they just sit there...plugging...
Thanks,
John
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Evening all,
I've been having issues with my off-side rear indicator for a while - intermittent working, changed the bulb - not that, eventually through lots of waggling and poking narrowed it down to the connector on the back.
I looked through here and there were a few references to these connectors but they all gave the same out of date link. Anyhoot, I discovered what they are and thought others might like to know!
So, the indicator connector is an 'econoseal waterproof 2-way female' part no. 0-012-52 (sometimes quoted as 01252) and I believe the stop/tail light is the same but 3 way, part no. 0-012-53.
I changed the indicator connector tonight and it appears to be good, the connector is certainly exactly the same as the one that came off (300Tdi). I struggled for a while to get the old crimps out but couldn't (I'm sure a hammer would have worked!), but the wires were just long enough for me to cut the old one off flush and crimp the new one on.
Got mine from here: http://www.thetoolbo...ctor-2460-p.asp all of £2.90 odd with free cheap-skate postage and they take paypal as well, so didn't even need to register.
Hope that helps someone,
John
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Afternoon all,
Well the thermometer's dropping again and so is the length of time it takes the 300Tdi to start!
I replaced the glow plugs yesterday as a couple of them were definately not working, and one of the others seemed slow, but this morning in the cold it was just as bad.
I've checked with a voltmeter and with the plugs not connected I'm getting 12v on the wire at the expected time, but when I connect the plugs it bearly registers any change on the meter. I've tested the new plugs and they are fine, but if I try to test in-situ or pull one immediately after lighting them up then they're cold.
Two things come to mind - maybe a poor earth to the enigine? It usualy starts on the flick of the key, but when it's cold and turns over a few times then it seems a little slow, but then it's a big lump to turn so maybe it's fine! Other thing I thought was the timer/relay, could it be supplying 12v under no-load but not able to supply the power with the plugs connected?
What do you think? Getting colder now, don't want to be left stranded on the drive when I have the chance to play in the snow!!
Thanks,
John
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Chaps,
Had a look at the oils and I'm pretty sure it was gearbox oil, topped it up again.
I was towing again the other day and it happened again, after about an hour or so. I pulled over and taped up the breathers with obviously solved the problem, but what issues would that cause? Are the breathers always there and they have just been raised, or have they been added - they were already fitted when bought it.
I'm towing back home again tomorrow, so any advise greatly appreciated.
Thanks
John
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Hi all,
Been a while since I posted, it's all been going pretty well lately!
I did some towing the other day and the result was the side of the 90 and front/side of the box trailer covered in oil from the raised breathers. Here's what happened...I knew I had to tow the large/heavy trailer of kit down to Guide camp for the wife on the 90, 100 miles down the motorway, so I did my good deed and greased the axle and topped up the oils a couple of weeks before. The 90 (300Tdi) never usualy gets on the motorway so I wanted to make sure it was all in good order!
Driving down with the trailer the traffic was really bad so we rarely got above 50mph all the way down, apart from using loads of fuel, all was fine. The drive back unhitched was fine and I did a steady 60 all the way, same with the return journy a few days later to pick the trailer up again. On all of these trips the temp needle never moved from it's stock 'just left of middle' position.
On the way back with the trailer the traffic was also clear and I was doing a nice 55 to 60 most of the way, but needed to change down to 4th for some of the hills. This obviously took it's toll as the temp needle actually moved over to just past the middle and I noticed a couple of splashes on the drivers side window, at first thinking it was water (it has a tendancy to lose some). It didn't get any hotter and I finished the journey fine, however when I stopped the trailer and side/roof of the 90 were sprayed with oil from the raised breathers. I couldn't work out if it was EP90 or ATF, it was slightly orange, but at the same time it was a pretty thin layer. If I had to guess I'd say it was EP90.
Any thoughts? Did I just over-fill it a bit and the extra heat thinned it enough to suck it up the pipes with the air flow?
I haven't had time to check the levels yet, but I don't think there was enough oil to notice from the level, I will check though.
All theories welcome!
Thanks guys,
John
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Well, in the absence of any advice this is what I did (so that others may benefit).
1. With the door lock in situ remove the door seal from the door frame.
2. Loosen all the door bolts, slacken the hinge pins off too.
3. Remove striker
4. Close door, lift and push until it sits absolutely flush with the rest of the body panels and there is an even gap all round. Observe position of hinges and how much lift in which direction you need to give the door.
5. With remarkable skill, imagination and handful of ingenuity place a ring spanner on the uppermost outer door bolt nut (inside), close door and lift into position then tighten the corresponding bolt.
6. Repeat with adjacent nut & bolt (open door, reposition spanner, close door, lift and tighten).
7. Work the way down the door hinges, leaving the hinge pins slack and inner door bolts loose.
8. Once the hinges are tight, refit the striker plate and shims, loosely, climb inside and through trial, error and observation find a point where the door lock will fully close and the latch will click through twice.
9. Refit the door seal.
10 Try the door again to ensure the seal is not preventing the door from closing.
11. Tighten the inner door bolts (same process, ring spanner inside, shut door and tighten).
12. Finally, adjust the hinge pins with the door shut, open the door and see if there is wiggle, repeat until wiggle gone.
Note: It's a helluva lot easier if there are two of you! Not having the door seal in gives a tiny bit more adjustment on the striker too. It can be gently tapped into place once the striker has been tightened. Also, the rubber bush that sits on top of the striker plate may need some adjustment to allow the lock to travel in further.
Thanks for taking the time to reply Mick. I had hoped for an easy answere here, but it sounds like a job for 'another day'...mine at least locks, just needs a good shove to achieve it!
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The correct 200 and 300tdi thermostats have a secondary valve as you have noted. I believe that when the engine is hot and the thermostat is fully open the secondary valve closes the bypass hose connection, which ensures that all the hot water from the head goes through the radiator to be cooled, rather than some of it take the short route back to the block via the bypass to the bottom hose.
Regards, Diff.
Thanks Diff, sounds like I need to get the proper one then.
John
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Hi John,
The spring is what closes the thermostat and holds it closed when it is below operating temperature.
As you say, most thermostats use this system, it's perfectly normal.
I'm not surprised it warmed up quicker, a thermostat which is stuck open will mean that the engine will never reach its normal operating temperature and you will have very little warmth from the heater.
If the heater is still not working too well, it may be worth checking Ralph's (Western) thread on setting up the heater flaps and cables, from what I have heard this can make a big difference to heater efficiency.
HTH
Mark.
Thanks Mark, but this thermostat has two sprung parts on it, a large one for the main valve as you'd expect, then a second small spring on which is attached to a second kinda trumpet-shaped part/valve sticking out the back! It looks like when the main valve opens the 'trumpet' is pushed back and closes the opening on the thermostat housing opposite the main pipe. Could be I'm completely mis-interpreting it, but it looks like there are two valves in one here.
I'll look out Ralph's thread on the heater flaps - the cable is detached from the floor flaps but I couldn't see how to get to it to fix it without taking the whole dash apart and that looked like more of a job than I had time for!
John
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Afternoon all,
I finally changed the thermostat yesterday after suspecting for a while that the old one was stuck open. I bought the replacement from my local motor factors about a year ago!
When I took the old one out it was indeed stuck open, but it was also different to the replacement one. The original one is a double-ended part with sprung stopper on the back and having looked online, most (but not all) of them have this second sprung part.
Keen to get some temperature in the engine/cab, I've replaced it anyway, but now I'm wondering if I really need to get a proper one - what does the back stopper bit do?
If I do need to change it again, should I get a genuine one or are the pattern parts ok?
Drove it in to work ok this morning and it definately warmed up much quicker - still not much heat in the cab though, guess a matrix flush is next on the list...
Thanks,
John
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i have nightmares about the noises my rear windows make
I fitted the Bearmach ones to my 90, fairly simple once you have measured up a county to see where they go. I made a cardboard template to draw round, then most of the cutting was with the angle grinder (the wife went out - she couldn't watch!), then lots of offering up and working with a file to get it just right - especially in the corners. Then drill and bolt one hole, drill all the rest, remove, apply sealant and rivet away. The sealing strip that covers the rivets was rubbish - too small and rigid so kept falling out, fortunately my local supplier got a couple of genuine filler strips from Bearmach and they are fine. Took about 2 or 3 hrs per side I guess, and yes, I did drive around with one window for a week!!
No rattling at all on mine, although they're not entirely waterproof - due to them being sliding windows, nothing to do with the fitting, honest...
Few pics here
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You should be able to replace just the regulator, not the whole alternator. I wouldn't drive it like that, no telling what it's going to do to the battery or what the battery is going to do when it's had enough - does it get hot for example due to being over-charged?
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!
TD5 alarm
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks Simon. Looks like you've been busy! I was thinking of fitting a rev counter as well, so thanks for the info.