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surf110

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Posts posted by surf110

  1. Something aint right there.

    Perhaps a faulty Coolant Temperature Sender, but any engine getting to 115C is in danger of death.

    I'd say that 100c is the maximum safe limit i'd like to see, with normal running at around 90. >100c says danger to me.

    Seen as your normal running is quite a bit above 90, and you've just fitted a new stat, i'd swap out the CTS to see if that makes any difference.

    If its not that then it could be the water pump itself.

    Will try that. Thanks.

  2. I live in the US and have a 2000 Td5 110 CSW with Allisport re-chip, Allisport intercooler, EGR bypass and turbo boost box and stock radiator. Engine has 75,000 on it.

    Was going up a steep grade at about 70 miles in 95 F degree weather and noticed the needle almost to red. Eased off the pedal and temp went back to normal. I could control the needle by easing off the throttle and slowing to 55 mph. Replaced thermostat, viscous fan, expansion tank, all hoses and flushed the system.

    Did another test today in the same weather conditions and the problem persists exactly the same. This time I used a Nanocom to monitor the temperature. In 95 F degree weather in city traffic, coolant temp stays between 92 C and 98 C. On the freeway going up the steep grade I hit 117 C and the needle was almost to red. Stopped and checked under the bonnet and coolant wasn't boiling. Had a slight smell of coolant in the engine bay.

    Noticed that the temp gauge will stay below the half mark from 80 C to 115C. After 115C it goes up rapidly.

    Am I risking damage above 115C? I probably hit 118 C or 119 C the first time around. Do you guys think I caused any damage? What's the highest it can go without causing problems.

    I'm not loosing coolant and my hoses are all soft. Don't think it is head gasket. Any suggestions?

    By the way, 110 wasn't loaded and I wasn't towing.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  3. WFX000250 is one valid number, though there are various supercessions and I'm not sure what order they are in. The differences between the pump units are in the sender calibration - any "pump" will actually work with any Td5 be it 90/110/Discovery as they all run at 4 bar/58psi regardless of the age of Td5, but the fuel gauges will be screwed up if you fit the wrong one.

    Can you change the sender calibration? I can get a WFX000260 for cheap but my 2000 Hi Cap 110 calls for WQB100420.

  4. My 110 is a new build from a NAS 110 and and Td5 hi-cap engine with 75,00 miles.

    Don't know how it was before but everything was checked and triple checked. Anything that was working properly, was replaced.

    I think diesel is similar to UK.

    I'm running it at sea level.

    Is thie lack of performance new or has it always been like this since you had the vehicle?

    Is the US diesel the same grade as UK ? (I understand that you might have different types of fuel to UK)

    What altitude/temperature are we talking about here ?

    Has it had a service recently (air filter etc)?

  5. When my MAF sensor went US I had the same issue within a 30 second window of starting the engine. Are all your sensors reading within limits as well as not reporting a fault? My MAF did not show any fault codes, just a constant reading of 4 (cubic feet/min IIRC) regardless of engine speed.

    Chris

    I have a brand new MAF sensor in there.

  6. My 2000 D110 is gutless off the blocks and I need to rev it to 2000 rpm to get it going.

    The thing has an Allisport intercooler, Allisport re-chip, Td5 Alive EGR bypass, turbo booster box, Td5 Alive exhaust and it seems to have less power than a stock Td5.

    Everything seems to work fine and I have no fault codes.

    Is there any adjustments that need to be done.

    By thew: I'm in the US so any help is a big help.

    It is a MY 2000 engine.

    Thanks.

  7. What sort of Defender? WFX000260 fits a 110 and I think a 130, but I think the pump in a 90 is different due to the different tank. It certainly is in a Discovery, you can fit the 260 pump because it is the same pump but the fuel gauge part is different and reads wrong.

    Sorry 110 Hi-cap.

  8. Unless you really want a stainless exhaust, then the standard set-up isn't bad at all. Most of the replacement exhaust systems are the same bore as standard anyway, so you won't gain a huge amount.

    The best setup on a Td5 without spending a fortune (in my opinion) is:

    A Pre 2002 specification None Cat Down pipe, a straight through centre silencer (or one with a smaller, straight through silencer) and a standard rear set-up.

    Ian

    Ian,

    Can you supply the exhaust you mention above? I already have the pre 02 down pipe. Just need the rest.

    I'm in the US, so it would have to be shipped here.

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