VERY OLD DISCO
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Posts posted by VERY OLD DISCO
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Since they have been heated once already any movement should be minimal a second time. Anyway, there is nothing so critical that a clamp or ratchet strap can't put right.
Good idea about galvanising the bulkhead mounting, might last another 50years!
Geoff
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The British forces in Iraq use Kerosene (Avaiation fuel) free of charge from the good old US of A in all the Land Rovers over there.
The problem is lubrication of the injectors and pumps, I belive they add something to deal with this.
It is unlikely that your engine is damaged in any way by running it on some sort of other fuel, if it was a very high performance turbo then there might be problems, but a N/A diesel will run on a wide range of fuels without problems.
G
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Half the bloody Land Rovers in Shropshire have run on cherry at sometime in their life, it's legal if it's off road so how do the Customs and Excise allow for this? the red must be in the system regardless of how much white diesel is run through. So do they prosecute for the LEGAL use of cherry off road, even though the vehicle is now running on normal diesel? No they don't, if they find red diesel in any concentration in your tank they will prosecute. They may check your tank and your exhaust soot for tracers showing the use of cherry, but will need to prove that cherry HAS or IS being used on the road. Not easy to do?
By the way you can use up to 2000 litres of vegetable oil per annum quite legally now, no tax no prosecution nothing.
Geoff
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The valve guides / seals are probably worn allowing oil to leak into the exaust ports, it usually shows as a fine spray of droplets.
If it's very smoky then it's like a two stroke, the oil will coke up the exhaust system and leave it wet.
G
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I just ordered a replacement part and got a britpart one. This is deff. not the same size (much thicker, more roundish) although the hole seems to be in the correct position.
Also there is loose metal inside that rattles quite annoyingly. Should i make a hole and remove that? or will the normal background noise be so much i won't be hearing it anyway.
Bas
Drill a small hole, pump some Waxoyl in and the loose bit will stick to the Waxoyl as it sets. Result, no noise!
G
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Hello Jon, all good advice but I thought I would add my penn'orth.
Any Series Land Rover can be slow, hard ride, cold, damp, noisy, and an altogether unpleasant experience.
So why do so many of us drive them? Because they don't have to be anything like that.
They can be fast, nice ride, warm, quiet etc. trouble is, to find one with all the bits on to make it so nice would probably put it outside your budget.
My advice is to wait, there is no rush, something will pop up and then you can go for a ride and see what you think. Sodbury sortout is on in I think, in April, you can have a look round at virtually every sort of Land Rover ever made in the car park. You will see a fair few for sale as well.
Whatever you buy you will have to be prepared to mend it on a regular basis, so get a good toolkit. It's a good way to learn about vehicles, and you have to start somewhere, best have someone you can ask for advice and, hopefully, a hand when things get difficult.
You rarely lose money on an old Land Rover, I sold my first one for twice what I paid for it! I had done a lot to it but it was worth it.
If you want a ride to see whats it's like find a local Land Rover owner and knock the door, I wouldn't mind if it was me and most Land Rover Series owners would be only to pleased to discuss the vehicle and go for a ride. They might even know where a suitable vehicle was lurking and a recommend is worth a lot in the world of Land Rovers. There are some wrecks out there, and there are some nice well cared for vehicles as well, suprisingly, the price difference isn't that great, and you would be far better buying off an enthusiast like us lot. I know that I have spent 100 s of hours and lots of money on Series Land Rovers and then sold them on a couple of years later in very good order. I bet most of us have done something like it as well.
Crickey thats a long post, good luck with your search, patience, my man, is a very great virtue.
Geoff
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[i only have an arc welder, a decent mig weler is too expensive for me at this moment. What do you all use for welding chassis?
I use arc or MIG welding. Arc welding is fine on a chassis, just get the right rods (1.6mm is what I use, from Machine Mart )
and make sure the metal is clean and shiny, it is not essentail but it makes the job so much easier.
To weld vertically you go uphill (if you go down hill you will get a weld but no penetration) rod pointing up, (i.e. hand lower) and gently ziz zag in a figure of 8 (on its side ) pattern.
For best results cut a slight "V" to allow good penetration and grind off flush. I never do this as I prefer to see where I have welded so I don't finish up welding over a weld so to speak.
Good luck
G
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Hi Bas, when I fitted my outrigger (S1) it was exactly in the same place as the original, but the replacement part was not the same, there was a lot of space to make up with washers.
Check the new part is the same size as the old one, and match it to the one on the other side.
G
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They are not expensive to buy, in fact all the parts to refurb you relay are available and cheap, right down to the spacer that the seals bear onto (called a "collar"). I have found them easy to refit using a couple of Jubilee style clips and a vice. Or put something through the hole and wind the spring on, best be strong though!
Geoff
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Attached herewith
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>Engine mountings to chassis?
Leave the chassis alone! Use the normal 2.25 engine mount on the left hand side. I was told to use a 2.25 bracket on the right hand side with an angled adaptor, but I found that drilling a new hole in the original 2-litre mount worked fine.
Edwardathon, you have raised a doubt in my mind now. I have fitted the round type engine mounts to the chassis x member. My engine awaits refitting. From what you say I will need to drill another hole in the xmember? How far from the orginal hole will this be (Approx) ? Thanks Geoff
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Hello Brett, My S1 has a 2.25 engine fitted, well it did but I have stripped it for a full rebuild, I have heard that the bell housing will foul the chassis member, I have replaced the mountings with the round ones (later S2 and 3) on the engine mounts and the gearbox mounts. I have been told that this should be OK with no problem with chassis.
The clutch, mainshaft etc appears to be standard on mine so should fit without problem.
See my other post re carb. elbow fouling bonnet.
The clutch appears standard so should be OK, I will count the studs and bolts on the bell housing and look if there is a bolt at 12.00 O'clock, I will let you know.
Thats all I can say until I refit mine.
Geoff
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OK, my head bolts are bottoming out. Shortening them without a lathe is impractical so what do I do?
Thick washers ?
geoff
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Uli, you will need to make something to connect the carb to the filter, the elbow is to large and will foul the bonnet.
Like this:-
Photo credit to Jon in Canada.
Geoff
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Or you could buy a cheapo Chinese test meter, stick it on volts reaading, and graft it into the dash.
Geoff
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The S1 has a three bolt fitting and the most common conversion is to a two bolt. You need to make an adapter plate, remember, these are the brakes, so make it strong. Then you need to make the operating rod longer, (you might have enough adjustment on the thread to do this) the rest is just plumbing.
geoff
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I had mine rebored and sleeved with stainless, cost £67 so when you take out the cost of the seal kit etc. it not a bad deal.
If it doesnt seal let me know and I will let you have the phone number.
Geoff
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Smart Eh? Despratly need a bulkhead (any condition) for 1955 S1 86"
FOUND ONE
Just needs a bit of paint on it :-)
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Here is a pic of my S1 1955.
It now has two wheels on and a back axle.
Geoff
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No cracks, it rings like a bell, anyway I have wire brushed it with the angle grinder and found no cracks.
It isnt out of round either, at least so far as I can tell, in fact the drum is in good condition, only a little wear.
Both fronts are fitted the same!
Geoff
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What is the band round the brake drum for?
Is it some sort of anti squeal or what?
Geoff
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Since the frame is bare, why not make the crossmember removable, instead of welding it fast to the frame. Would make life a lot easier if the time came that you had to remove the tranny when the body is on.
Todd.
Thanks Todd, I welded it on as you can see, the part was available and I usually do the boxes through the top, the hard way.
Geoff
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Done it, it fits,
Just had to cut a couple of bits off and drill some holes.
Geoff
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Been welding today.
Will a S2/3 gearbox xmember fit in place of that rusty one?
Geoff
Chassis Protection, which way to go?
in Series Forum
Posted
Bitumastic based underseal sticks over Waxoyl very well, if Waxoyled on top of the underseal it stays soft and sticky and doesn't peal off.
Geoff