cosworth
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Posts posted by cosworth
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join a piece of hose to the return pipe on the header leave the car running and catch the contents in a bucket. just top up as you go. jobs a good un!
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Thanks everybody
The box is down, I borrowed a gearbox "jack" and made my own "special tool" a plate with 2 holes (8mm) and one 10mm hole. Then I could bolt the plate direct to the main box through the 8 mm holes and to the flywheel/clutch housing through the 10 mm hole, and using long bolts and 3 nuts on each you can ajust the level of the plate. After having problems taking the gearboxmounting of %?&§?&
everything was stable and in balance so the wife (she has taken both gearboxes and engines out of a Serie III in India and Pakistan, and no she is not for sale and her sisters are no good) and I just moved the entire box backwards and lowered it. You have to be aware of 2 brackets holding a pipe in place (the are in the way when you move the box backwards, we found out afterwards ) . The book says that you have to take the cooling fan off but I just suspended the engine on a pole across the wings. And there are quite a few wires in a TD5 to undo too. But as said IT IS OUT
.Lars
putting the full thing back in is a pain, make sure you don`t catch the loom on the way in as it`s easy to do. jack up the front of the engine to tilt it. a lot easier to fit! there will be lots of swearing and shouting - doesn`t tell you that part in the books!!!
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axle oils and transfer box oils are the same as the older model (syntrax)
hence they should really be changed every 24k and not 48k as mentioned above
new gearbox oil isn`t available from dealer yet though is available from ford as that`s what it is.
hope this helps
my f****** comma key isn`t working!!
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28psi on the front - 48psi on the back
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9/10 we end up fitting a complete hub rather than just the sensor. they are an absolute pain in the tits to remove without breaking!! be prepared for easy £200 + for a hub if bought from a dealer. compare that to £14 for a new range rover abs sensor
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thanks matey
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mine doesn`t have any mate hence the post
but thanks -
mine don`t have them are they a straightforward fit?
anyone else fitted them?
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does anyone have a link to the southdown ebay stuff? can`t find anything
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howdy howdy!
i was the only man in a skirt there
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what to look for
in Freelander Forum
Posted
hi mate. excuse the grammer in this post as my comma key ain`t working!!
landrover changed the IRD box in 2000. a w plate lands right in the middle of the change over. i too looked at a w plate xdi with 105k on it and it looked immaculate inside and out. however there were a few "minor" point underneath that on there own were fine to deal with but combined they cost a small fortune! if you can get a look underneath check the viscous coupling between the 2 props. the big dohnut type dampener is usually loose but can be resealed both mounting bearings on the viscous wear quite bad and will cause play in the prop and ultimately a lot of banging. rear diff mounts breaking up and causing excessive twisting/play when under load. rear diff pininon seals or driveshaft seals leaking. check the drivers side or o/s/r mounting points of the rear subframe particularly the more front of the two. put the car in full lock both ways and go from forward to reverse. listen for a "cracking" noise from this o/s/r area. 2 possible causes but same problem - the captive nut becomes free and resulting play in the subframe mount slowly breaks down the area round the mounting hole or rust eats at the area round the mounting hole and resulting play breaks away chassis and captive nut! either way its a costly repair if not handy with a mig! also the IRD box as mentioned before. listen carefully for any odd noises from it on road test. very hard to explain on a forum but should something be up it`ll be fairly easy to identify. make sure the tailgate window operates as it should. other than that underneath just look at all the usuals you would when buying any car. service details timing belts brake pipes etc etc. good luck matey