d1scv
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Posts posted by d1scv
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hello
did a search but found nowt clear
only had the landy a few days, out last night in the dark again same as the disco 1 head lights not very bright
2004 td5 how can i get more light? can i put in higher watt bulbs? or HID units?
many thanks
Assuming this is a face lift- go careful on upping the wattage. Headlight lens is plastic.
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This Serengeti seems to have a lot going for it. My pal has got the auto 02, and has had hardly any problems.
No ACE, no cruise control, no SLS- and nice wheels.
110k miles and he moaned big time some 3 years ago when 3 amigos came up! Sensor needed reseating.
I see the Serengeti having a big appeal to the more traditional LR man.
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Scott, So far as I recall, the springs stop the door relocking itself when you try to open the door.
Yes, fitting the new spring is a mission- but it really is easy once you've mastered it. Tony
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Discodavey, I got the headlights and plugs here.
http://stores.shop.ebay.co.uk/DLS-LAND-ROV...K__W0QQ_armrsZ1
And the lights supplied were 9 pin- with levelling motor fitted in headlight
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My view- Mix all the above ideas- and do as I did.
Find a nice, late, 2002 ish, non face lift D2. Then face lift it yourself for around £300 in bits.
With £10k in your pocket you will have a lot of money left to put back in the bank!
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Hi any body ever done the head light face lift to early td5 to 2003 lights ie wireing diagrams
Recommend the TD5 Alive CD. Was cheaper if bought on fleabay.
Everything you need incl. wiring diagrams.
Also,a bit dear, but worth it- ready wired plugs for the lights. Got mine from DLS.
Go careful- don't cut anything till your sure. And they fit perfectly.
Word of warning- the wiring diagrams of the head lamp are viewed looking at the back of the headlight rather than the plug.
This will become clearer later. Wired mine backwards!
Good luck.
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Don't think I have ever seen a Td5 with a collapsed hose - just loads of 300s - so I'm not sure. However low airflow/pressure doesn't usually register a fault code - a dud AFM won't trigger a fault code if the AFM is just under-reading (as a lot of them do when they fail) - the power output will just be way down.
So maybe this is a yes. Accepting that that low MAP and/or MAF readings will not show up as a fault, it is likely that a delaminated turbo pipe will show unusual readings on live data. Sorry- that's a question!
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Just trying to pick the bones of this one-for future reference.
It would seem that oil on the red plug has indicated a circuit fault in the injector area.
The delaminated hose has indicated a circuit fault in the waste gate area.
Seems quite logical- after the event.
Bogmonster, Would you expect a delaminated hose to also show up in live data-i.e. lower than expected MAP readings
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That makes it clearer. So it's as I found the other day - just enter the code as it appears on the injector and NanoCom does the rest.
Yup,its as simple as that. But there is a fault with V2.05- and Nanocom will not reply.
e.g. My type 2 injector stamped NGGBG is report as NG GB 3-G-A
Using the Nanocom guide that you pasted above- this is an impossible combination
It should read NG GB 3-G-C
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Found the answer! To save writing it all out again- see here:
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Could you let me know what sort of readings you can see for 'ACC 3' with the engine running.
That is track 3 on a 3 way throttle.
I have issues with my Td5, that I thought might revolve round the fact that I can see no change in voltage on ACC 3 with the engine running. I can see it vary with the engine not running.
However, hooked Nanocom onto a known good runner. And ACC 3 does not vary.
Maybe someone has different test gear, and could tell me if track 3 varies for them.
Thanks Tony
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Clive, you are doing my head in here! I will have a think- and get back tomorrrow. But a big thank you. Tony
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Right, I would really like to stay with this example. Can you recall the code actually stamped on this injector
- the one ending 2-F-C.
And yes I have v 2.05.
As a matter of interest, I have been searching the internet for months to understand all this.
I have yet to receive a reply from anyone who has managed to use Nanocom to install a new injector.
Maybe you are the first! If so- Nanocom would like to hear from you. They will/can not answer this question.
Tony
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crwoody, thanks. Fun enough it was your post back in Jan that caused me to seek help on this forum.
But I still have trouble in fully understanding.
Are we saying, that in my case, green top injector, that I enter BE- then GF-then enter just 4 in the third box.
Bearing in mind that the injector stamp is BEGFH
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Sorry to bring up this old chestnut- particularly as I am intruding from the Disco forum.
Despite searching I cannot find an answer.
Put simply I am try to change an injector in a 2001 Td5-NNN Ecu. Green tops
The present injector stamped NGGBG. Nanocom shows this as NG GB 3-G-A
The new injector is stamped BEGFH. Nanocom showed this as BE GF 4H*
So I clear the 3 boxes- Yes?
In the first box I enter BE ?
In the second box I enter GF ?
What do I enter in the third box. Do I enter just one digit and does Nanocom fill in the spaces?
Tony
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I second the 2 things you should try:
-replace injector loom - given you know nothing about it, even if it's not at fault, sooner or later it will give up, so it will be 40 pounds well spent.
- fuel pressure (fuel pump in the tank, faulty pressure regulator etc)
Thanks, I will be replacing the injector loom- even though I can see nothing wrong. Have already fitted new pump/ injector seals etc.
Will be checking fuel pressure. Probably will replace regulator just to eliminate.
Still trying to understand the detail of trialing another ECU. I've just got it locked in my head that this is where my problem is.
But I do not discount any ideas. Tony
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You will usually not get faults logged with either harness or fuel pressure - though if the plug on the head is clean that makes it less likely but still not impossible.
How long have you had the vehicle / do you know when/if this harness was last changed? Unless it has been done recently I would still suspect it, oil showing or not, and the official story that it only happens to early vehicles is bllx.
I am going to have to bit the bullet here and replace the harness, just to clear up the possibility. Don't know if it's been changed, but there is not a trace of oil at the ECU.
Will also carry out a fuel pressure test as you have suggested.
May I also crank up the question.
Nanocom shows my injectors as:
NG GB 3-G-A
BE GF 4-H-*
NL GD 6-K-*
NB LD 5-J-*
NN LN 5-J-*
Injectors are actually marked:
NGGBG
BEGFH
NLGDK
NBLDJ
NNLNJ
If we take No 1 injector [for example] where has the '3' and the 'A' come from.
If I could get a grasp of this I'd be in able to walk on my own!
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I would change the injector harness and not bother with anything else until you have done that. After that I would look at the fuel pressure.
To make a Td5 run with a replacement ECU you only need what you describe - security code learn and write the correct injector grades. At a basic level nothing else is required as long as the ECU is right for the age of vehicle (pre 02 or post 02).
I don't think the pedal will be causing the fault - if the ECU can't make sense of the pedal output it trips a "driver demand" fault code and defaults to idle, so pressing the throttle has no effect at all.
Thanks for your suggestions.
I forgot to mention that my ECU has no faults logged. Which is making me wonder.
Would not either the harness or fuel pressure problem throw up a fault or at least bad cylinder balance.
The red plug and cylinder head plug are both clean
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Put simply- my Td5 auto 2001- is down on power, and tends to misfire when cold. Chucks out grey smoke,when cold.
Checked all the usuals:
Maf- good readings
Map- good readings
Cylinder balance OK- apart from when misfiring at cold.
Have noticed that track 3 on the throttle hardly varies with the engine running. Moves OK with just the ignition on.
No sign of oil in the harness.
So- want to trial a known good ECU using nanocom.
Not going to try changing the map.
Can anyone give a guide as to how to 'learn security' and possibly write injector codes using nanocom.
Nanocom site very vague about exactly how to change ECU. Thanks Tony
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I noticed my TD5 disco is not warming up on the temperature guage for many miles then suddenly the needle rises to normal. I know the waether is cold but this can be some 7 or 8 miles running. I have seen a drop of fel consumption to of about 2-3mpg which is interesting.
It could be a dodgy temperature sensor only but I suspect not, they tend to work or not work.
I thought the thermostat may be sticking open from the previous drive allowing the radiator open and then freeing off and controlling flow to the radiator as needed? any thoughts??
pon checking th manual I need to remove the viscous coupling, apparantly with a special tool. What is needed, will a little common sense overcome this.
And don't forget it is a normal i.e. bash the spanner from the right [as you face the car] to undo
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That's bloody stupid answer from someone who ought to know better. Don't be so obtuse Les - your comment is somewhat less than helpful, and I for one don't find it funny in the least.
D1SCV - you've been very badly advised by whoever you spoke to I'm afraid. The circumstances you describe suggest that the vehicle may well be stolen, and therefore it should be looked at.
As you've not filled out your profile, so I've no idea where you are (therefore don't know which force you spoke to). I may be able to help - drop me a PM.
If what you say is true (ie, that you have fake paperwork etc) then there is unlikely to be smoke without fire, as it were. The comment about the vehicle being seized is true to a point, but it depends on the circumstances. If you bought it from a dealer, they should refund you. As I said before, the vehicle, if stolen, cannot be your property - it'll belong to the insurance company or the original owner. It may just be that the paperwork has been screwed up - but either way, you need to sort it.
Matt
Firstly, I am grateful for ALL thoughts on this matter. Bear in mind that I just got a £30 on the spot - no post code on my number plate!
I am almost certain that this motor is not stolen. I have now got LRs records of this vehicle up to 160k. Currently showing 86k 2 years further on.
This is the simple version=
9/11/2006 Mot carried out at 155,464
27/2/07 Work carried out at LR at 161k
4/5/07 Mot carried out at 74,308
I then bought in July 07 at around 76k- with full service history verifying this 76k. All false.
Trading standards are showing interest. But the Met police blanked it. The garage appears to have changed names slightly, but I think I can establish a connection.
If anyone can help I will be happy to forward the full story- which proves criminal activity.
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If it's a ringer, then the first thing the Police are likely to do is take it off of you
Any money you have already paid is then down to you to recover from the person or company you bought it from.
Before you start to worry - possibly unnecessarily, do what checks you can on the vehicles history.
Les.
Just a quick update. Pretty sure the car is not a ringer. The DVLA/ VOSA [Mot computer] does not check against previous mileage- tester can enter anything without question.
As to the police! Took all the information to them. i.e. conflicting Mots. proof of false mileage, proof of false service history stamps,
- and was told that whilst there was no doubt of criminal activity, they would not even record the possible offence as they did not have the resources to investigate. Period!
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Dodgy bugger
Les,
But how on earth did DVLA computer not pick up the huge drop in mileage on the Mot
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or the mot guy might have missed the 1 of the front, so then it would be 174,308
no forget that, it is possible with the correct gear to clock a electronic speedo fitted vehicle, but that would need the ecu sorting too.
seems a bit strange.
The 'service record' only goes to the 76k. Oh yes its all crooked. Lr reckon they can get into the ECU and detect whats happened
on board diagnostics
in Discovery Forum
Posted
I doubt that you can access the SLABS ecu with anything other than a dedicated reader.
Have a look at a Nanocom. A 'must'- in my opinion- if you want to maintain a D2 yourself.
Post your location, you may have a Nanocom owner near you.