phil200tdi
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Posts posted by phil200tdi
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I cant find a decent image on their website (or anywhere else showing them set up...!
But you can find this on Page 53 of this months LRO magazine...
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Sorry that should Read MIB Flex Kit.
Anyone got any comments on the front mount? The shock will now be outside of the spring which I would expect should give more articulation?
I'll be using terrafirma +2" springs and +5" shocks so would have to go down the LT shock mount route (a la Gwyn Lewis etc) but these look interesting...
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Anyone running these shock mounts?
http://www.mcdonaldlandrover.co.uk/parts/mib-flex-kit-hardware.html
Just spotted them in Lro and front mounts especially look interesting.. Pricey though.
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depend what was writen on the original first registration document. probably the dealer got it wrong.
our own Bogmonster on here has a 2006 Defender 110 SW 300Td & it has the Td5 dash fitted.
Could just be one of those Landrover idiosyncrasies... but as always its buyer beware with no history/paperwork etc.
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it could be a late 300tdi ROW spec which would have the td5 dash.
On the DVLA is says not marked as export which I'd have thought all ROW specs would have.
The enquiry is complete
The vehicle details for HX03 AWU are:
Date of Liability 01 04 2012
Date of First Registration 01 04 2003
Year of Manufacture 2003
Cylinder Capacity (cc) 2495CC
CO2 Emissions Not Available
Fuel Type Heavy Oil
Export Marker Not Applicable
Vehicle Status SORN Not Due
Vehicle Colour WHITE
Vehicle Type Approval
Vehicle Excise Duty Rate for vehicle
6 Months Rate £118.25
12 Months Rate £215.00
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From what I've just read the Heritage was only available 1999/2000 in small numbers so something isn't quite right about the DVLA info on this (although it is the DVLA) .....
A personal visit and a thorough check of the VIN stamped into the chassis would be advisable if you are thinking of buying it...
Just saw it on ebay whilst flicking through and immediately thought it looked dodgy. 03 plate Tdi Engine on td5 chassis and td5 dash, no history, loose location info and just a mobile number.. I wouldn't touch it.
If someone on here with ties to the police feel it worth investigating further - so be it. Too many landies going missing round here to ignore something like this.
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If your clutch pedal went solid - with slight creaking noise if you push it hard, then this is an indicator of a clutch fork that's either punched through the pivot point, or the fork end/thrust bearing has failed. Gearbox off I'm afraid
If you don't know the history of the clutch, then you might as well replace it at the same time.Les.
Hi Les
Yep thought it would be something serious, the clutch is relatively new less than 10,000 miles (AP Racing). I won't attempt that job tho, too much for me. As a mobile mechanic, I don't suppose you want to do the job for cash? PM me if interested.
Cheers Phil
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Is the pushrod still attached to the fork? If you push the pushrod in as far as you can without exerting any force on it - how much of the pushrod is still protruding out of the slave cylinder hole? Why did you remove the slave cylinder in the first place - what were the symptoms for you to start the job?
Les.
Hi Les,
Yep the pushrod was still attached to the fork, kept in place wist a small screw through the plastic clip. I can push the pushrod all the way in to the gap for the slave cylinder, there is a very slight resistance at the end of the movement (hence I have tried 7 or 8 times to fit the slave to see if this changes the solid pedal).. but as said before the arm feels like its not attached to anything at the other end and doesn't seem to be moving anything..
Symptoms in the first place were reduction in clutch pedal pressure - only operating at the bottom of the pedal travel. I had been topping up the master cylinder for a while which was curing the problem. First changed the master cylinder which promptly caused the slave to fail (leaking hydraulic fluid from the bellhousing drain plug. Then did the slave, everything was going fine bled the system fine but then the pedal was solid. Advice on from here was that it was the clip, so I bought one and then found the old clip was still attached. Refitted the slave a few more times and still no change so tried to give it some welly, blowing the clutch damper out the back of the car..
I had been moving the truck backwards and forwards on the drive way by starting in gear, could this have caused any trouble inside the clutch? Could it be a faulty slave cylinder?
Cheers in advance.
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Cheers for those documents, they are really useful.
Unfortunately I have only changed the slave and master cylinder so was trying to diagnose the problem just incase I didn't need to split the gearbox... Bugger, sounds now like I do need to split them so will try to get a tow to my friendly mechanic - unfortunately thats 15 miles away!!
Unless any mobile mechanics on the forum are keen to do this on my drive way for £££? I'm right between Aylesbury and Oxford - HP18..
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it will move freely as the bearing isn't touching the clutch pressure cover diaphragm spring fingers, my 200tdi was the same when I changed my clutch last week, it'll be fine once the slave is in place & engine/gearbox are reconnected.
Definately not fine.. the clutch pedal is solid. I thought coaxing it with the size 10s might help but instead the clutch damper blew off - literally flying 3 metres out the back of the vehicle.. now need a new one of those too. Is it possible for the damper to have been the problem?
i just dont understand what the problem is. the clutch arm could literally be pulled to the end of the slave cylinder hole and pushed up and down as if it were not on a pivot or connected to anything at the other end..
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Having now bought a new clip and split the slave from the Bell housing (again!!) I have found that the rod is still attached to the clutch arm.. however, there seems to be alot of play in the arm and it moves very freely (release bearing?). Any ideas what the problem may be? I am slowly coming to terms with the fact that it may be a job to pass to someone competent...
cheers phil
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Unfortunately after having stripped the holes and tried a number of times to refit the slave cylinder it seems the operating rod came loose and has now (subsequent to retapping the holes) left the clutch solid... On Les Hensons tech archive he says:
"Be very careful about removing the slave - if it's tight on the operating rod, then there's a chance you will pull the rod out of it's clip inside the bellhousing". What do I do if this has happened, do I need to split the Engine/gearbox?
Cheers
Phil
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Unfortunately after having stripped the holes and tried a number of times to refit the slave cylinder it seems the operating rod came loose and has now (subsequent to retapping the holes) left the clutch solid... On Les Hensons tech archive he says:
"Be very careful about removing the slave - if it's tight on the operating rod, then there's a chance you will pull the rod out of it's clip inside the bellhousing". What do I do if this has happened, do I need to split the Engine/gearbox.
Cheers
Phil
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Thanks for all the advice, a guy from my landrover club is an engineer and has all the taps and even an angle head drill to get into the tight places etc.. I usually try to buy the tools so i can do it next time but in this case the tools are expensive and I can see them being rarely used!
Cheers
Phil
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Hi All
This week I have been trying to change the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Unfortunately upon removal of the old cylinder the bottom bolt stripped the captive thread in the gearbox bell housing, meaning that the new cylinder will not tighten against the bell housing... Annoying..
Any ideas of how to fix this? I have heard of drilling the hole and fitting helicoils however, seems alot of tools are required.. Anyone got any experience of this?
Oh and don't search for "stripped captive" on a work machine! Go on, ask me how I know!
Cheers
Phil
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If the fork goes the pedal usually goes solid IIRC.
Master cylinder internal seals would be my guess, if you don't have any puddles under the vehicle. When you say the clutch is not engaging do you mean it is not disengaging? In other words have you no drive even in gear (not engaging), or could you start it in gear and it would drive but you can't select a gear with the engine running (not disengaging)?
Cheers Bogmonster. yep not disengaging i.e. will start fine as if in neutral but can't select a gear (crunching noise). To be honest I didn't try starting in gear. If it is the master cylinder, am I best to replace the slave (and visa versa) at the same time? also do i need to avoid the britpart/paddocks non genuine parts?
Cheers
Phil
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use the search for yourself but......fork?
Thanks Tony but I did do the search prior to posting. I also checked in the Haynes manual which gives 4 possible causes:
1) Leak in Clutch Hydraulic System
2) Faulty Master/Slave Cylinder
3) Broken Clutch Release Bearing or fork
4) Broken diaphragm spring in clutch pressure plate.
As there is no feeling of solidity to the pedal as the above link suggests, I thought I would explore the other options before committing to have the engine/gearbox out.. especially if it is something I can do myself. I will be well Mildly miffed off if it is the fork as when my mechanic put in the new clutch I asked that he strengthen the new fork as described by Les Henson in his tech article. I put in a new fork and 'Borg and Beck' clutch kit bought from Ashcrofts.
Would the fork breaking cause any damage to the clutch itself? IS there a way of checking this without splitting the engine from the box?
cheers
Phil
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Hi All
Have a bit of a problem with the clutch on my 200tdi disco. The pedal has now gone floppy with nearly no resistance for all but the last 3 inches of travel. The clutch is not engaging and hence I am unable to get it into gear/move it to a garage... I can't see any sign of clutch fluid on the floor under the pedal.
Any ideas what might be causing this? Has had a new clutch fitted about 5000 miles ago so hopefully not a new clutch job..
Does this sound like a master cylinder/slave cylinder problem? Or something simple to fix?
cheers
Phil
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I don't know what you're using but I assume the thing is either crushing or tearing rather than coming undone - if you can, grip something round the lip at the bottom where the filter meets the housing, as that's thicker metal. In case you don't already know, oil filters need only be done up by hand, which means they can also then be undone by hand next time.
Another suggestion is to wrap some abrasive tape round the end (the type used on non-slip steps, floors, boat decks, etc.) as that will give a very good grip.
Either the previous owner didn't know to do up by hand or he was a gladiator...
Have the housing out of the car now - took about 5mins to get out. Will have it in the vice tomorrow and see how stuck on it is...
Cheers for the help..
Phil
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cant you get a set of stilsons in there?? i had to use a set to get the diesel filter off my mates crappy big horn the other day!!
Dont have any.. but I think the screwdriver would give more leverage - plus there isn't much room with all the fuel lines and steering linkages.. I'll try to get the housing out and see how it goes from there...
It will come off damn it!!
cheers for the replies...
Phil
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Hi All
I have been changing the oil now for around 4 hours! Getting a bit Mildly miffed off as the oil filter wont come off...
Have used a couple of oil filter wrenches and have now even resorted to stabbing with a screwdriver and trying to lever it off that way - didn't work!
Anyone had this problem or got any tips?? Obviously the car is now immobile so no chance of taking it to a garage!
I have noticed that the housing where the filter sits is only secured to the block by 3 bolts, is there any reason not to take off the housing and place in a vice to remove the filter... Anything I need to be aware of doing it this way? Also if the thread on the housing is buggered any idea where I can get a new one and rough estimate of cost??
here is a photo I have found of the filterhousing.. Is there a proper name for this?
Cheers for the help
Phil
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You can join the club on the day, but you can't enter until the next event
Nige
Can you join today to play tomorrow???
I am a member but have a few mates who wanna come along tomorrow.
I think I also need to renew my membership - joined at Slab last year!!
cheers
Phil
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Hi all,
Can anyone suggest the best way to repair the side lips in the boot area when replacing the boot floor.
I have just stripped my floor out and the damage to the side lips is quite extensive.
I took some pics of a completed floor replacement to a local mot station and they told me that pop rivets and bolts would not pass the test.
Appreciate the help and advice.
Thanks in advance
I had the same problem.
I got a fabricator mate of mine to fold the steel in a z section - tried to upload a publisher drawing but wont let me.. then welded in to the sides.
I used 1mm sheet steel but may be better to go thicker... I bolted and pop rivetted - no probs with the MOT and recommended by a landrover specialist.. If you do this, watch the fuel lines and fuel tank (Doh!!)
let me know if you need any more info or pm me your email address and I'll send the drawing..
cheers
Phil
If you don't know the history of the clutch, then you might as well replace it at the same time.
MIB flex kit
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Thanks Paul
If there is no articulation to be gained then I think Gwyn Lewis' kit is a better option for me(tried and tested)..
Cheers Phil